saw a neat tool, for grafting...

I have one very much like that. Works well. For a guy that sucks at grafting :emoji_unamused:
 
Hard to believe an $8 tool is going to be any good and keep an edge. Do they have replacement blades available or can you use blades from one of the similarly designed ones?

I used a similar expensive one at a grafting class and found it difficult to get things centered up and cut right. I had already started with a grafting knife so I didn't spend much time figuring out the right way to line it up. I mostly cleft graft but did a few more whip and tongue grafts this year. As long as you can sharpen and not cut yourself, that is fairly easy. Even easier if you just use a utility knife.
 
I don't know anything about the one you linked, but the Chinese are making knockoffs of some of better grafting tools. I'm sure nothing is as good as a grafting knife in the competent hands, but for me right now, some kinds of grafting seem to be hit and miss. I ended up buying one of these knockoffs. I've only had a chance to use it a couple times. Here is the thread where I learned about it before buying it: http://www.growingfruit.org/t/zenport-generic-labled-grafting-tool/10511

Thanks,

Jack
 
My first year grafting I thought it was hard and looked into tools like that. After my 2nd year of grafting i realized how easy it was and even a bad graft will take. I've made some really ugly grafts that I never thought would make it and they seem to always do make it. I really think that as long as you keep the scion/bud moist, and seal the wound properly, it is hard to not make it take.

The cheapest grafting knife ($10) I have bought is my best and go-to knife. I think it is called Victonix from Amazon, and yes, it is better than my AM Leonard and Felco grafting knives.
 
Your bad grafts may be better than my good ones :)

It is kind of funny. My first grafting came in the form of bark grafting persimmons. I had close to 100% take the first year. In year 2, I tried a few thing to make it even better and had near a total failure. I figured it was my changes. I went back to the original methods and got a so-so year. My experience, for what it is worth, is that factory beyond my grafting technique seem to be much more important. Most of my grafting has been done with a knife. Admittedly, I've pushed the limits with some of the things I've tried, but my success rates have been all over the map.

I doubt this tool well really help my success rates, but I'm interested to try it on some hard to graft species like Jujube. It is very hard wood with a very thin cambium layer compared to pome fruits.

Thanks,

Jack
 
Your bad grafts may be better than my good ones :)

It is kind of funny. My first grafting came in the form of bark grafting persimmons. I had close to 100% take the first year. In year 2, I tried a few thing to make it even better and had near a total failure. I figured it was my changes. I went back to the original methods and got a so-so year. My experience, for what it is worth, is that factory beyond my grafting technique seem to be much more important. Most of my grafting has been done with a knife. Admittedly, I've pushed the limits with some of the things I've tried, but my success rates have been all over the map.

I doubt this tool well really help my success rates, but I'm interested to try it on some hard to graft species like Jujube. It is very hard wood with a very thin cambium layer compared to pome fruits.

Thanks,

Jack
I believe the root stock matters as well. On the b118, m7, and G30 will be near 100% success, the MM111 I get approx 90%. The first growth the b118 will put on 18-24" of growth, the G30 will be close to 18", the M7 will be 18-24", and the MM111 around 10". I think the MM111 is one of the weaker rootstocks I get.
 
I believe the root stock matters as well. On the b118, m7, and G30 will be near 100% success, the MM111 I get approx 90%. The first growth the b118 will put on 18-24" of growth, the G30 will be close to 18", the M7 will be 18-24", and the MM111 around 10". I think the MM111 is one of the weaker rootstocks I get.

My grafting is much more varied. I've done a bit with M111 (right for our soils), but most of my grafting has not been with clonal rootstock.
 
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