Review of Landpride 3p600 drill

Sorry to Hi-Jack your thread Omicron! It looks the difference between the 3p600 and 3p 606nt is the addition of a row of coulters of front?

So I don’t think you could even get the fluted coulters for the 3p 600???.

When planting into hard clay ground - You could always increase/max out spring pressure - but they might be maxed out already in the tire track rows???

The main reason I’d rather have the 3p 500/600 is the ability to put the whole thing on a trailer and maybe make some extra money with my equipment. That gets to be a rigamorole with an extra pull behind planter.

Omicron - what say you? Any recommendations?

Also - Does landpride/Great Plains ever have any field days where a guy could see these units running, ask questions to field reps etc?
From my limited experience….

I think the front coulters on a no till drill are mainly for cutting through thatch. I think the extra benefit for harder ground is the weight. However, all that weight is not on the planting coulter so I’m not sure that helps all that much. Mine has weight brackets on each side so I could add several hundred more pounds if needed. All that weigh would be directly on the planting coulter too.

A lot of no till guys have removed the front coulters. Grant woods is one of them.

Landpride is same drill as Great Plains. It is literally built like a tank and made by people who’s livelihood depends on it. They have made these smaller drills for people like us but use their long term farming and machine building experience.

My buddy owns a landpride/kubota dealership. It’s who I got my tractor and all my landpride implements from. He can not get a drill on his lot. He could order one for me and get it at cost, and was something like 16k. They just don’t have them in stock. I think the economy and shipping and such plays a role, but I also think these drills are special order for small food plotters with too much money and not enough brains! So I doubt their will ever be ones sitting around to be trialed.

It was delivered to me on a gooseneck trailer. I used my forks and FEL to take it off with no issues. Very mobile.
 
^ Other than weight (which is a huge factor) these 3P500 and 600 drills operate much the same as the Genesis.......which most owners give high marks. I did not know they made weight brackets for the Land Pride.....Pic??
 
Would have been awesome to demo these different drills but @omicron1792 has a point- why would they waste their time and put use on one when they can’t even get ‘em in stock.
 
I know where several LP's are sitting on a dealer lot. I passed on one when the price jumped a few thou over the quote in Jan....and I had never seen one or even read a review on one. The dealer still has 'em......for about 4 months now. I cannot get myself to pull the trigger......as the Tar River 505 is getting the job done for me. Also, I would buy a five wide again.....as it is entirely behind my tractor tires and works well with a six foot crimper. I get my planting done very quickly with the fiver. My 2 cents worth.

I have thoroughly enjoyed reading and learning about these products and the regenerative food plot practices. Still got allot to learn.....but I am enjoying where it's gotten my land. So much faster and easier to take care of now.
 
Two much money and not enough brains is right! I used to kill deer out of a $200 kyack with a $100 muzzleloader - now I got big bucks tied up in tractors and heated ground blinds! Thanks for the info guys and Omicron those plots look great - especially when you think it was all kudzu.

10FF5972-C4C0-4FBC-B905-2409FB297777.jpeg
 
I know where several LP's are sitting on a dealer lot. I passed on one when the price jumped a few thou over the quote in Jan....and I had never seen one or even read a review on one. The dealer still has 'em......for about 4 months now. I cannot get myself to pull the trigger......as the Tar River 505 is getting the job done for me. Also, I would buy a five wide again.....as it is entirely behind my tractor tires and works well with a six foot crimper. I get my planting done very quickly with the fiver. My 2 cents worth.

I have thoroughly enjoyed reading and learning about these products and the regenerative food plot practices. Still got allot to learn.....but I am enjoying where it's gotten my land. So much faster and easier to take care of now.
I had a saya 507 bought when I found this 3p600 at about the same price. I feel you!
 
Two much money and not enough brains is right! I used to kill deer out of a $200 kyack with a $100 muzzleloader - now I got big bucks tied up in tractors and heated ground blinds! Thanks for the info guys and Omicron those plots look great - especially when you think it was all kudzu.

View attachment 44710
That is awesome! I’ve hunted duck from a boat, but never deer!

The kudzu battle has been rough! But I think I’m winning right now. Some will pop back up that I’ll have to hit again, but I’m ready for it.

That field before….
4DE40A65-3B7D-4AA9-A268-0A0D95247B19.png
All those small trees were just smothered by kudzu. I used a skid steer to pull them all up to make a flat field. It’s actually almost 4 acres. I think I will make most of it native grass and forbs in future with a long one acre plot in the middle.
 
When planting into hard clay ground - You could always increase/max out spring pressure - but they might be maxed out already in the tire track rows???
I like my 6’ bc it is just a touch wider than my tractor. So I don’t have to ride over same tracks for planting. In soft ground you can increase spring on each individual planting coulter to be harder down pressure. Mine are all set on the standard or lightest setting. Has about 4 settings for increased pressure. I certainly didn’t need it and my ground was pretty dry so no real issue on tire impressions.
 
I have a 2-row planter that I no-till with. It has no coulters, just double offset disk openers that slice thru residue and open the seed trench very effectively. Would this “min-till” drill be similar, perhaps just with less weight per row? Might I be a little more confident that my soil type could work without the front coulters because of my success with my planter? My soil is classified as a silt loam.
 
I have a 2-row planter that I no-till with. It has no coulters, just double offset disk openers that slice thru residue and open the seed trench very effectively. Would this “min-till” drill be similar, perhaps just with less weight per row? Might I be a little more confident that my soil type could work without the front coulters because of my success with my planter? My soil is classified as a silt loam.
From everything I’ve read, people I have talked to, and my own experience, I think you do not need front coulters in anything but hard clay. And in some cases you actually do better without the cutting coulters.
 
From everything I’ve read, people I have talked to, and my own experience, I think you do not need front coulters in anything but hard clay. And in some cases you actually do better without the cutting coulters.
I've come to believe the same thing here Omi.....the only other thing that could be a concern would be a thick mat of mulch. I have no extensive experience here.....but wonder if a Coulter might slice better with the mulch? I've also read that some dd openers have hair-pinning issues in heavy straw.
 
I've come to believe the same thing here Omi.....the only other thing that could be a concern would be a thick mat of mulch. I have no extensive experience here.....but wonder if a Coulter might slice better with the mulch? I've also read that some dd openers have hair-pinning issues in heavy straw.
You’re probably right foggy. I’ve noticed that Grant Woods always plants in to standing Crops, but he does have a thick mat of residual mulch underneath that too. So who knows.

I have read that if you were going to terminate the crops with a crimper before planting, you have to plant in the same direction as the crimping.
 
This is my first year with my 3p606NT so take it for what its worth. The coulters are a must for true no till. You'll never get the seed to the soil with just the openers when planting into much of any residue. In wetter soil though, the coulters probably do more harm than good. When seeding things like switchgrass, I also believe the coulters are a hinderance. Seed ends up deeper than you want it. even with the shallowest setting on the closing wheel.

I had 1 field I did for a guy this year that was super hard clay and lots of rocks. I had a very hard time penetrating the soil even with the coulters. If I turned up the spring pressure then the drive wheel wouldn't touch the ground sufficiently to drive the seed units.
 
More on my drill today.

Checked on my fields, day 5 after planting. The best germination I’ve ever had from a planting…..by a factor of 100. Way better than the firminator, and throw and mow not even in same ballpark.

FFC9B5B4-59B2-4C7F-861A-99F09C06844B.jpeg

Cool thing is, this was birdseed. 50lb bags for 20 dollars from local seed store. They had no millet, Milo, or sorghum Sudan to buy.

I had some high dollar (name brand seed company) millet to compare, so did a wet towel seed test. Results were surprising.

For the millet,
31EF3D04-49BC-465E-8F4F-633B0AF90DEA.jpeg666848EA-E8F7-4B04-961E-06A52051F13F.jpeg

Name brand millet. 12/12.
Birdseed millet. 12/12

This was day two of wet towel test.

The sunflower and Milo from the birdseed.
0069E289-9192-4548-B1F2-BB9E5B44B7A3.jpeg7B579693-105A-42F7-B0E5-48FF09DE9F1D.jpeg

Sunflower. 9/12
Sorghum. 8/12

Again, this is after less than 48 hours. My guess is they all would have germinated.

I paid 250 dollars for three 50lb bags of high end seed shipped to me (two millets and sorghum Sudan). I got 6 50lb bags of birdseed for 20 each plus tax.

For getting stuff growing on summer plot I think it’s a real option that I will use to my advantage in the future.
 
That is pretty neat.......and one heck of a savings in seed cost! The only think I would question is.......what are you going to get for "bad" weeds? I'm not sure.....but suspect that my pigweed issue started with some bin-run winter rye from a local source (feed store). They don't sell winter rye anymore.

Not sure how you could inspect for weeds?
 
A lot of bird seed has thistle, etc. Just be careful what you get.
 
I went through several handfuls of seed and didn’t see any seed that wasn’t supposed to be there. I’m not stupid enough to think it couldn’t or doesn’t have some weeds but I’m not doing this to harvest a crop. I’m trying to grow green and keep living roots in my soil.
 
[QUOTE="Foggy47, post: 287299, member: I'm not sure.....but suspect that my pigweed issue started with some bin-run winter rye from a local source (feed store). They don't sell winter rye anymore.
[/QUOTE]
Same here. Huge flush of pigweed right after using bin run oats the first and only time. Not worth it to me for small plots aka small amounts of seed needed
 
More on my drill today.

Checked on my fields, day 5 after planting. The best germination I’ve ever had from a planting…..by a factor of 100. Way better than the firminator, and throw and mow not even in same ballpark.

View attachment 44779

Cool thing is, this was birdseed. 50lb bags for 20 dollars from local seed store. They had no millet, Milo, or sorghum Sudan to buy.

I had some high dollar (name brand seed company) millet to compare, so did a wet towel seed test. Results were surprising.

For the millet,
View attachment 44780View attachment 44781

Name brand millet. 12/12.
Birdseed millet. 12/12

This was day two of wet towel test.

The sunflower and Milo from the birdseed.
View attachment 44782View attachment 44783

Sunflower. 9/12
Sorghum. 8/12

Again, this is after less than 48 hours. My guess is they all would have germinated.

I paid 250 dollars for three 50lb bags of high end seed shipped to me (two millets and sorghum Sudan). I got 6 50lb bags of birdseed for 20 each plus tax.

For getting stuff growing on summer plot I think it’s a real option that I will use to my advantage in the future.
Can you upload a picture of that birdseed bag and the ingredient list?
 
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