Red root pigweed

[wiscwhip]

I might be inclined to suggest a pre-emerge herbicide with good residual control such as Authority MAXX be sprayed on that plot after the burndown and some very light tillage to break up the leftover plant residue. You will most likely need to find a way to remove the majority of the dead plants on the surface to get the pre emerge to contact the soil directly or it will not perform as expected.

 

[Nova]

You can afford to own beautiful hunting land in OTC, but you cant spend an extra $35 on a bag or two of beans? I know plenty of farmers that bought liberty beans for $40-45 this year. Roundup doesnt work so it doesnt matter if you get it for free. Keep doing what your doing and the mess is just gonna get much worse.

Couple things:
A. you must not be paying attention because I did NOT keep doing what I was doing. I sprayed 2-4D not round up!
B. This isn't at the hunting land in OTC, these are my plots at home.
C. I am not buying 1000 acres worth of beans so that price is not what I'll be paying! And 10 bags @$35 is $350, not just a bag or two.
D I have done a little reading on liberty link and you need to spray more often with more chemicals that cost more and they admit Glufosinate can be weak on lambsquarters, larger pigweed species (including waterhemp and Palmer). Doesn't sound like a good fit for a guy struggling with pigweed now does it?

 

[BuckSutherland]

I had a pretty big issue with this in a small 1/2 acre plot

A. I am saying if you want beans RR is out. You need to plant something else. Liberty or Extend are about your only options for now.
B. Missed that part and have no idea where home is. All you have listed is OTC.
C. 10 bags to plant half an acre?
D. All weeds in soybeans need to be sprayed when they are shorter than a pop can, follow the label, and use maximum rates. Best way not to have weeds is a strong pre emerge and never let them get going.

 

[Nova]

I might be inclined to suggest a pre-emerge herbicide with good residual control such as Authority MAXX be sprayed on that plot after the burndown and some very light tillage to break up the leftover plant residue. You will most likely need to find a way to remove the majority of the dead plants on the surface to get the pre emerge to contact the soil directly or it will not perform as expected.

I thought about that, but I already have to wait 10-14 days after spraying the 2-4D before I plant. Putting down the Authority MAXX will delay planting another 2 weeks. That puts me in the middle of July before planting. That's getting really late for beans. Deer won't touch brassica at my place, have tried 4 years in a row. I guess I could do WR...

 

[wiscwhip]

I thought about that, but I already have to wait 10-14 days after spraying the 2-4D before I plant. Putting down the Authority MAXX will delay planting another 2 weeks. That puts me in the middle of July before planting. That's getting really late for beans. Deer won't touch brassica at my place, have tried 4 years in a row. I guess I could do WR...

Unless you can find some really short season beans to plant, you are most likely not going to end up with much in the way of pods for late fall/winter food regardless, so no matter what you plant now, it would most likely just be "green food" up till frost hits it a few times anyway. Not sure what route I would take moving forward personally, but what you have done so far was 100% necessary to prevent an all out assault from the pigweed. You don't seem to have serious issues with grassy weeds, so maybe something like WGF sorghum would allow you to continue to use 2-4,D to fight the broadleaf weeds while providing you with some food for the fall?

 

[Nova]

Unless you can find some really short season beans to plant, you are most likely not going to end up with much in the way of pods for late fall/winter food regardless, so no matter what you plant now, it would most likely just be "green food" up till frost hits it a few times anyway. Not sure what route I would take moving forward personally, but what you have done so far was 100% necessary to prevent an all out assault from the pigweed. You don't seem to have serious issues with grassy weeds, so maybe something like WGF sorghum would allow you to continue to use 2-4,D to fight the broadleaf weeds while providing you with some food for the fall?

I am not real concerned about winter food here at home. I have had standing beans and corn over winter and the deer just don't winter here. Right around the beginning of December they leave and comeback in the spring. Late summer is when I see the most activity leading up to fall. Green food is my best draw.

 

[S.T.Fanatic]

Have your soil tested for the micro's that most people don't. Get your lime and fertilizer ordered. Wait til August. Spread and till in your lime and fertilizer and plant a mix of sunflowers and winter peas. Late August overseed heavily with WW and or WR. Next spring be patient and let your cereals out compete the weeds while the soil is still warming. Ideally you could notill your beans and roll down the cereal but that isnt an option for most people. I would think however that if you waited long enough for the soil to heat up before you tilled and planted next spring your beans MAY out grow the weed competition. Planting late usually isnt a problem because the plants will grow much faster anyway in warmer soil. If not thats where your pre emergent will come in.

I've found that for Sept-Oct attraction fall planted sunflowers are the best game in town. My deer also ignore brassica most years.

 

[Bill]

Nova,
I took this pic this morning. I'd say my beans have a few RRP and marestail in them:(

Light rain this morning but tomorrow they have a surprise coming. These are Liberty beans that will get a hot dose of Liberty 280 SL and AMS.

 

[wiscwhip]

I am not real concerned about winter food here at home....Green food is my best draw.

Well if that is the case, screw it, you could plant beans and/or field peas anytime you want between now and mid-August and still have green food for hunting season.

Do your deer eat buckwheat? You could get a full crops worth of growth for browse and canopy to shade out the weeds in about 50 days, then once the BW matured, broadcast some WR and roll down the BW seed for whatever second growth you can before it freezes off. Next spring you start out with a nice rye cover crop that you could drill beans into.

 

[S.T.Fanatic]

I checked on one of my bean plots yesterday. Weeds a just starting to come in. I would like to try to get by without spraying but I don't think they'll canopy soon enough. So when it comes to spraying how long do you wait? I don't want the weeds that are growing to get to tall but what about the weeds that haven't germinated yet? Maybe there not a concern because the beans should be able to out compete them.

On a side note the bean plots that were in brassica last year are growing better than the plots that were in rye/wheat. Any idea why that is?

 

[bueller]

I checked on one of my bean plots yesterday. Weeds a just starting to come in. I would like to try to get by without spraying but I don't think they'll canopy soon enough. So when it comes to spraying how long do you wait? I don't want the weeds that are growing to get to tall but what about the weeds that haven't germinated yet? Maybe there not a concern because the beans should be able to out compete them.

On a side note the bean plots that were in brassica last year are growing better than the plots that were in rye/wheat. Any idea why that is?

I don't know but I planted beans for the first time this year. One continuous plot consisting of ground that I've amended and planted for several years now and ground that I've never fertilized or limed. The historic food plot had rye growing that I terminated with gly at the time I planted beans. This area is WAY thinner with the beans vs the new ground. Same drag used on both so neither received more or less seed to soil contact.

 

[wiscwhip]

Usually the allelopathic effects of rye will only suppress germination in smaller seeds, not larger seeded plants like soys, corn, buckwheat, etc. That said, the rye could be having an effect on the germination of the beans I suppose??? It would be a surprise to me if this was truly the case, but who knows? Did the soybean seed come from the same bag? Lot number?

 

[4wanderingeyes]

I have noticed it with turnips and radishes.

 

[wiscwhip]

I have noticed it with turnips and radishes.

With both turnip and radish seeds being smaller, that does not surprise me as much something with seeds the size of soybeans.

 

[bueller]

Same seed. The new ground is more shaded so I initially thought that was the cause but there are some shadier spots on the ground I've plotted for years that shows no better germination than the sunny spots. I'm not ready to blame the rye just yet but it is a thought.

 

[Barndog56]

What procedures did you use to plant the old and new ground Bueller?

 

[bueller]

This year sprayed everything with gly, broadcast seed, and dragged with spike harrow all in the same day. Neither has ever been tilled to my knowledge. Old has been improved greatly with lime and fertilizer per soil test. New had not been fertilized until this planting and hasn't been limed. Previous to planting the new ground I've been mowing it a couple times a year so it was not overgrown and not thick enough to have any sod formed.

 

[Barndog56]

I would guess your food plotting has depleted some minerals that you're not putting back in with your lime and fertilizer. That would depend on what kind of soil test you get and what fertilizers and lime you use.

Look for yellowing on leaves, and what kind. Is it on the oldest leaves, newest leaves, edges of leaves, between leaf veins? They are all symptoms of different deficiencies.

But then if you meant poor germination when you said 'thinner', I really have no clue.

 

[bueller]

Yea, poor germination. The plants that did come up all across the plot are healthy looking, just way more numerous on the new section. Seed rate was pretty consistent throughout, at least I thought.

I wonder if the root mass from 3 foot tall rye limits the amount of seed to soil contact I get dragging with my little spike harrow.

 

[wiscwhip]

Do you have a camera currently on that plot? You have enough turkeys around that they may have been bugging in the rye one week and robbing you of soybean seed the next?