Pruning at time of planting

[CrazyEd]

A lot of the trees I grafted spring 2014 are close to 6' tall with a bunch of really nice branches in the 12-16" range. I would say these are well feathered trees and not whips. As much as huge whips are nice and most of us want our first set of scaffold at 5', I think more leaves catching more sun are really helping these trees thrive.

My question is how much should I head them back when I plant in spring. Head back the leader and each feather 33%? More? Less? Prune them totally back to a whip? What is the best practice?

 

[CrazyEd]

I prefer strong whips to feathers personally. I seem to get more upward growth from them. The few feathered trees I've received have always seemed to take their time growing up.

I've never started with 6' trees though!

Two examples from cummins this year. The centennial was a picture perfect feathered tree. It looks about the same now as when I planted it with very little growth upward. The black Oxford started as a thick whip about 3' high. It was completely deleafed by caterpillars in June. Since they were taken care of it has exploded. Should be 5' by end of summer. Both b118.

Gonna get some rain tonight Jon?

 

[CrazyEd]

Same here. We need rain.

I like a nice whip too. Just wonder if I should prune all these trees back to whips.

 

[Turkey Creek]

A lot of the trees I grafted spring 2014 are close to 6' tall with a bunch of really nice branches in the 12-16" range. I would say these are well feathered trees and not whips. As much as huge whips are nice and most of us want our first set of scaffold at 5', I think more leaves catching more sun are really helping these trees thrive.

My question is how much should I head them back when I plant in spring. Head back the leader and each feather 33%? More? Less? Prune them totally back to a whip? What is the best practice?

These trees are currently in your yard/nursery? If you are digging and tansplanting everything I have read says to prune back to offset the loss of roots. I think the amont of removal depends on the care you take on digging trees. Commercially dug trees are not babied and so root loss can be pretty significant. Personally if they were mine I would just use your best judgement. Head back the central leader to 3-4" above where you want the next scaffold if necessary and remove any branches you know are going to be removed anyhow at some point.

 

[chickenlittle]

I cut most of my feathered trees back to a 36"whip with maybe 1" to 2" long lower branches. Impressive results so far.

 

[CrazyEd]

Thanks guys. Just reaffirming what I thought. I know ben hooper on the other site was always a huge advocate of cutting back newly planted trees. It's a difficult thing to do but absolutely essential for the best results.

 

[CrazyEd]

:D

Yeah, Looks we are just catching some decent rain and much needed rain at our place.

 

[CrazyEd]

I just got a call from menards, they are on their way dropping the 2nd load of pea gravel and manure in the next hour.

 

[NY_Terrence]

A lot of the trees I grafted spring 2014 are close to 6' tall with a bunch of really nice branches in the 12-16" range. I would say these are well feathered trees and not whips. As much as huge whips are nice and most of us want our first set of scaffold at 5', I think more leaves catching more sun are really helping these trees thrive.

My question is how much should I head them back when I plant in spring. Head back the leader and each feather 33%? More? Less? Prune them totally back to a whip? What is the best practice?

This is from the Cummins web-site:
Be Brave. Cut the tops as we suggest and you and your trees will be much happier. Topping promotes strong healthy growth and gives you a well shaped tree.

Apples and Pears:

1) Feathered trees. If a tree has branches, trim the central leader back half way and all side branches back half way. This is minimum pruning. It would not be incorrect to prune the central leader back to 38 inches from the graft union and prune all branches back to 3/4 inch nubs.

2) Whips or trees with one or two branches. Trim all branches back to 3/4 in nubs. Cut central leader back to 38 inches from graft union.

 

[NY_Terrence]

On a related note: I have two years of grafted trees in the ground, but haven't transplanted any yet. For the ones that are ready to go, what is the plan? Do I dig them up and store them bare root or in mulch, or do I dig them up next spring after thaw and move directly to their destination?

 

[Turkey Creek]

On a related note: I have two years of grafted trees in the ground, but haven't transplanted any yet. For the ones that are ready to go, what is the plan? Do I dig them up and store them bare root or in mulch, or do I dig them up next spring after thaw and move directly to their destination?

I would dig and transplant next spring. Trying to "store" trees decreases your odds of success.

 

[CrazyEd]

On a related note: I have two years of grafted trees in the ground, but haven't transplanted any yet. For the ones that are ready to go, what is the plan? Do I dig them up and store them bare root or in mulch, or do I dig them up next spring after thaw and move directly to their destination?

I dig them, drive 2 hours to the farm, plant them as soon as possible. That is my approach. The less they are out of ground the better.

 

[CrazyEd]

God I hope so! Might save my July planted brassicas and get the ones going I planted this past weekend. Couple chances in the next week too. At least for now.

Delivery guy said he figured we got 1-1.5" of rain while he was unloading today. Rained like crazy, standing water in our high ground field. Standing water is a rare site on our farm.

 

[CrazyEd]

Volk field station on WU said 1.05" which is only a mile or two from our place. I'm going to check my gauge tomorrow.

How is the Prairie Spy doing?

 

[CrazyEd]

About the same as last year. It had one Apple that I took off after the coon attack but it's just not moving up much. I have a HGG right next to it that has done about the same. I planted that little sweet 16 you gave me on the other side of the PS and that has done very well. Over 3' high already. So I don't know if there is a hard pan or something in that little area or what the deal is. The rest of my younger trees are doing very well. It's just those two that are stunted it seems.

Edit: the only thing I can think of is I used a really big piece of black plastic around those two. Maybe too big. Next spring I'm going to change it out for some lumite and see if that makes a difference.

I dont think I have any recent pics of my prairie spy grafted at the same time but it's shaping up to be a real nice tree, doing real well. I'll try to snap a photo next time.

I can always replace it with something else if you like.

 

[bueller]

...JUNEAU COUNTY...
NECEDAH 1.71 IN 0148 PM 08/07 44.03N/90.08W
MAUSTON 1.22 IN 0222 PM 08/07 43.80N/90.07W
3 NW DELLWOOD 1.20 IN 0220 PM 08/07 44.00N/89.99W
4 ESE SPRAGUE 1.20 IN 1045 AM 08/07 44.10N/90.06W

 

[CrazyEd]

Is your P.S. bearing apples CE?

No, it's not. I think it was grafted in 2013, planted 2014. Probably 6' with a bunch of branches. Seems to be a real good grower for me, even the grafts were some of the most vigorous of their class.

 

[CrazyEd]

Dumped 1.4" out at our place this morning. Looks like the brassicas should make it. Even had germination on stuff I planted last weekend.

Great! I planted last weekend too. Hope we get some more.

 

[CrazyEd]

Just checked my grafts today and mowed the clover plot they're planted in...I've got a P.S. that was grafted this year out of its 5' tube :)

You using tubes with your grafts? How's that working?

 

[buckvelvet]

You using tubes with your grafts? How's that working?

I think he's using half tubes if I remember reading that somewhere correctly.