Posted sign fasteners

Hopefully, if everything goes as planned, we will (FINALLY) close on our property in Ohio next week. I want to post all of the property lines (as good fences make). Have signs ordered from Serious Markers but it dawned on me that a portion of the lines are gorgeous oaks. What would the best fastener be to cause the least damage, threat of infection or stress to trees? (Is it as simple as a 2” coated deck screw?) Posts really aren’t an option.

Thanks.


Why dont you wanna use post? I pounded metal T post in and wired a metal sign to the post. Done forever pretty much. It took me under 5 mins per sign to install. Its gonna keep out all the honest trespassers, but probably not the dishonest ones. Use 7 foot T post.



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Why dont you wanna use post? I pounded metal T post in and wired a metal sign to the post. Done forever pretty much. It took me under 5 mins per sign to install. Its gonna keep out all the honest trespassers, but probably not the dishonest ones. Use 7 foot T post.



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Simply- it would take me a ton of them- it’s “only” 75 acres but has some funky parcel lines. There are a few places I have to use them… but not looking to buy a truckload

I am curious to see what the magic distance is in Ohio for the forestry managment plan (posting). ThAt will dictate some too


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Oh yeah. In NY your posting distances, corners, sign labeling, conspicuity, upkeep all matter.

This is ohio …. Near people and hope to make this a something real special property

Put signs up every 100 yards or so at first, mark corners well. I used 5’ of sharpened 2”X4” driven into the ground metal signs screwed onto plywood squares attached to posts with long galvanized drywall screws and I spray paint the posts blaze orange.
Make examples of anyone you catch, do not let any off for first offense go full on Comanche with it.

Call warden ahead of time and let them know you do not allow any trespassing and want offenders charged. The wardens will mark your property in their notes and check any random hunters going in or out or that look sketchy when they see them.

If you catch someone call warden if they are busy call Sherriffs office…put those numbers in your phone.

Word will get around that you are serious and crazy.
 
Any thoughts on using a battery powered stapler?


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Any thoughts on using a battery powered stapler?


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That is what I use with the cheap roll of plastic signs. They only last a couple years anyway. Other methods with more heavy duty signs last much longer, but for the cheap plastic signs, a cordless stapler/brad-nailer works fine. Use staples not brads. I adjust it so the staple head does not cut into the plastic sign.
 
That is what I use with the cheap roll of plastic signs. They only last a couple years anyway. Other methods with more heavy duty signs last much longer, but for the cheap plastic signs, a cordless stapler/brad-nailer works fine. Use staples not brads. I adjust it so the staple head does not cut into the plastic sign.

I was hoping I could make the stapler work with these rigid plastic signs.


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The traditional fastener for permanent type signs is aluminum nails. I don't know if they have come up with anything better. You don't want to hang them tight to the tree as trees grow. Aluminum was the choice because it does not kill the saw blades at the mill when the trees are eventually sold.

Due to cost, we have just used the cheap plastic rolls of signs. With them, I've just used staples. After a few years, they need replaced.
We use the Ty-vec type that come in rolls. As you said, they need replacing about every 3 or 4 years. I think UV from sunlight breaks them down, and we have curious bears that seem to be attracted to anything brightly colored or that make noise when wind moves them. Claw marks tell that tale. Some break from trees flexing in the windstorms. We have to use nails with collar grommets on them - many hardwoods here, and staples or aluminum nails won't even penetrate.
 
We use the Ty-vec type that come in rolls. As you said, they need replacing about every 3 or 4 years. I think UV from sunlight breaks them down, and we have curious bears that seem to be attracted to anything brightly colored or that make noise when wind moves them. Claw marks tell that tale. Some break from trees flexing in the windstorms. We have to use nails with collar grommets on them - many hardwoods here, and staples or aluminum nails won't even penetrate.
Yes I probably misspoke when I said plastic. I think the roll we used with the stapler was ty-vec.
 
Yes I probably misspoke when I said plastic. I think the roll we used with the stapler was ty-vec.
I wish our property wasn't so ROCKY. It'd be nice to be able to drive metal posts in and fasten metal signs on them, but it's impossible due to so many rocks. It's like a rock quarry under the leaf duff along the road we'd need to post. So - we're limited to posting on trees, unfortunately. I don't like using nails - but we haven't found anything else that works with hardwood trees.

The rolls of Ty-vec aren't cheap either - for what they are.
 
I wish our property wasn't so ROCKY. It'd be nice to be able to drive metal posts in and fasten metal signs on them, but it's impossible due to so many rocks. It's like a rock quarry under the leaf duff along the road we'd need to post. So - we're limited to posting on trees, unfortunately. I don't like using nails - but we haven't found anything else that works with hardwood trees.

The rolls of Ty-vec aren't cheap either - for what they are.
Agreed, they are a short term solution to a longer-term problem.
 
I wish our property wasn't so ROCKY. It'd be nice to be able to drive metal posts in and fasten metal signs on them, but it's impossible due to so many rocks. It's like a rock quarry under the leaf duff along the road we'd need to post. So - we're limited to posting on trees, unfortunately. I don't like using nails - but we haven't found anything else that works with hardwood trees.

The rolls of Ty-vec aren't cheap either - for what they are.
I hired a guy with a rock drill for the 1/4 mile south fence line for the H braces they get set 4.5’ deep. I bought a rhino pneumatic post driver that did pretty well in my rocky ground. If the ground had been even worse for rock I’d of had to drill for every t-post hole but as it was I could usually move over a foot or two or three and get the t-posts in the ground.
 
The road distance we'd have to drill & post with metal posts is a bit over 600 yds. The mountainside along that road is solid mountain stone rocks that go down probably 4 ft. at least. No soil really - just rocks. The mountains here in Pa. are just gigantic rockpiles covered with leaf duff & humus. From valley floor to mountain top typically anywhere from 500 ft. to over 2000 ft. in elevation.
 
The road distance we'd have to drill & post with metal posts is a bit over 600 yds. The mountainside along that road is solid mountain stone rocks that go down probably 4 ft. at least. No soil really - just rocks. The mountains here in Pa. are just gigantic rockpiles covered with leaf duff & humus. From valley floor to mountain top typically anywhere from 500 ft. to over 2000 ft. in elevation.

I might consider just spray painting "No Trespassing" on the rock face if it is solid.
 
I might consider just spray painting "No Trespassing" on the rock face if it is solid.
Might be a good idea if we could find some big, flat slab-type rocks to use for signage. Not many of those around our location. Most properties in our area use either flexible metal signs nailed to trees with nails, or the Ty-vec fabric types nailed to trees. Looking at the leaves / leaf duff / moss on the ground - you'd never suspect that underneath was 4 ft. of solid rocks. Rocks run anywhere between the size of a saucer to a desktop copier/printer .......... piled tightly together. HUGE PITA for trying to drive anything into the ground.

Fortunately, our ridgetop food plot fields are tillable and have just small stones in them. Not so the woods!!
 
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