Permanent Trail Camera Power Project

[cheech53]

Amazon has boxes you might want to look at and also big box stores in the electrical department there usually gray plastic water tight
I have two set up been working for over 650 days now Cuddeback 9v solar 3501 with 18 NiMH batteries , with lithium ion batteries rechargeable on solar need a special charge controller and a special AC charger if you’re going that route , be careful with them because they can catch on fire if done wrong

 

[IkemanTx]

Amazon has boxes you might want to look at and also big box stores in the electrical department there usually gray plastic water tight
I have two set up been working for over 650 days now Cuddeback 9v solar 3501 with 18 NiMH batteries , with lithium ion batteries rechargeable on solar need a special charge controller and a special AC charger if you’re going that route , be careful with them because they can catch on fire if done wrong

I have 2 set ups with larger solar panels built around electrical boxes for use on private land. But my goal with this smaller, 3D printed version is to make it as compact as physically possible so I can use it on public land without being concerned about it drawing attention to my camera setup.

I am using NiMh for the solar setups to protect against low temp charging damage, and LifePo4 for the battery only packs.

The LifePo4 will most likely end up with an integrated BMS in each unit since i finally found a decent one for a reasonable price ($7.50 a piece). I will only run probably 2 spare LifePo4 packs total because as much land as I spread my cameras over, I rarely have more than 2 per property. I figure I will be able to get back home and recharge between camera pulls now that I won’t have to make specific trips to swap batteries, or even get a charging power source for the truck and be able to charge them on the go as well.


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[cheech53]

I have 2 set ups with larger solar panels built around electrical boxes for use on private land. But my goal with this smaller, 3D printed version is to make it as compact as physically possible so I can use it on public land without being concerned about it drawing attention to my camera setup.

I am using NiMh for the solar setups to protect against low temp charging damage, and LifePo4 for the battery only packs.

The LifePo4 will most likely end up with an integrated BMS in each unit since i finally found a decent one for a reasonable price ($7.50 a piece). I will only run probably 2 spare LifePo4 packs total because as much land as I spread my cameras over, I rarely have more than 2 per property. I figure I will be able to get back home and recharge between camera pulls now that I won’t have to make specific trips to swap batteries, or even get a charging power source for the truck and be able to charge them on the go as well.


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What brand and type of blocking diode are you using , I am working with a solar panel to buck converter set at 9.2. Volts but at night I need a blocking diode to stop current from going back in to buck converter from my NiMH power pack

 

[IkemanTx]

What brand and type of blocking diode are you using , I am working with a solar panel to buck converter set at 9.2. Volts but at night I need a blocking diode to stop current from going back in to buck converter from my NiMH power pack

I went with these cheap Chinese diodes

(Pack of 20 Pieces) Chanzon 1N5349B 1N5349 Power Zener Diode 5W 12V T-18 (CASE17-02) Axial Diodes 5 Watt 12 Volt: Amazon.com: Industrial & Scientific

(Pack of 20 Pieces) Chanzon 1N5349B 1N5349 Power Zener Diode 5W 12V T-18 (CASE17-02) Axial Diodes 5 Watt 12 Volt: Amazon.com: Industrial & Scientific

www.amazon.com

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[IkemanTx]

Just realized I never updated this…

The first round of boxes had too much warping from temperature changes during the print cycle. Life got pretty busy, so the project got out on hold for a while until a few weeks ago when I decided to get everything ordered to complete the project. All components are ordered, most have arrived already, and I ordered a pair of newly designed boxes to house it.

Total size is 125mm X 95mm X 35mm tall.
The internal batteries are 2,800 mAh Nickel-metal-hydride rechargeable batteries connected in series (positive-negative-positive-negative) to make a 12V pack.

I found some small, flat, 12v solar panels that will perfectly cover the back of the box. I made it 5mm wider length and width wise to protect the edges of the panel.

With the files sent out today, I should have the final high quality boxes in hand in the next 2 weeks. I rendered the 12v regulator and directional diode into the box just for size reference. The main empty space in the compartment will be taken up mostly by wires, and the holes on opposite sides will be waterproof bulkhead DC wire plugs.

I also added some lithium battery only setups to the DIY task list and will provide more info for those when the final components arrive.
I am building those out of LifePo4 32700 cells that have 6,000 mAh. So, the external pack is the equivalent of 2 full sets of Energizer Extreme Lithium batteries. They should provide 16-18 months worth of power even on video mode at the ultra setting.
Now to order several 256gb cards so the cameras don’t fill up. 4 of those makes a 12v pack, and i will be using a Battery Management Board with active balanced charging to keep the batteries in good shape.

All said and done, between the Gen 1 solar batteries, the Gen 2 ones, and the battery only packs, i will have external power for 10 cameras with a minimum of 18 months on video mode.


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[cheech53]

Just realized I never updated this…

The first round of boxes had too much warping from temperature changes during the print cycle. Life got pretty busy, so the project got out on hold for a while until a few weeks ago when I decided to get everything ordered to complete the project. All components are ordered, most have arrived already, and I ordered a pair of newly designed boxes to house it.

Total size is 125mm X 95mm X 35mm tall.
The internal batteries are 2,800 mAh Nickel-metal-hydride rechargeable batteries connected in series (positive-negative-positive-negative) to make a 12V pack.

I found some small, flat, 12v solar panels that will perfectly cover the back of the box. I made it 5mm wider length and width wise to protect the edges of the panel.

With the files sent out today, I should have the final high quality boxes in hand in the next 2 weeks. I rendered the 12v regulator and directional diode into the box just for size reference. The main empty space in the compartment will be taken up mostly by wires, and the holes on opposite sides will be waterproof bulkhead DC wire plugs.

I also added some lithium battery only setups to the DIY task list and will provide more info for those when the final components arrive.
I am building those out of LifePo4 32700 cells that have 6,000 mAh. So, the external pack is the equivalent of 2 full sets of Energizer Extreme Lithium batteries. They should provide 16-18 months worth of power even on video mode at the ultra setting.
Now to order several 256gb cards so the cameras don’t fill up. 4 of those makes a 12v pack, and i will be using a Battery Management Board with active balanced charging to keep the batteries in good shape.

All said and done, between the Gen 1 solar batteries, the Gen 2 ones, and the battery only packs, i will have external power for 10 cameras with a minimum of 18 months on video mode.


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I see you are using a voltage regulator you may want to consider a adjustable buck converter because the voltage regulator will use more power from batteries they heat up to about 140 degrees I think there are you tube videos on this. I see you also have a diode what kind is it and spec.

 

[IkemanTx]

I see you are using a voltage regulator you may want to consider a adjustable buck converter because the voltage regulator will use more power from batteries they heat up to about 140 degrees I think there are you tube videos on this. I see you also have a diode what kind is it and spec.

The diode is just a cheap 5 watt zenner diode made out of China. Buck converters are MUCH more expensive, and about 6-8 times the size compared to the voltage regulator. So unless I run into issues with the solar panel not outpacing the voltage regulator’s use, I will stick with them. I may not even have to use the voltage regulator because the solar panel on these boxes doesn’t run into over voltage near at bad as my Gen 1 setup panels do. The panels on the first iteration spike into 18 and 20 volts in direct sun, which is why I ended up with the regulators.


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[IkemanTx]

I see you are using a voltage regulator you may want to consider a adjustable buck converter because the voltage regulator will use more power from batteries they heat up to about 140 degrees I think there are you tube videos on this. I see you also have a diode what kind is it and spec.

Well, I take back the size and cost statement… found a minuscule little buck module that will handle input voltages from 4.75-23V and output 1.0-17.0V. And all for just $8 per batch of 10. A steal compared to the $8-17 per unit I was finding otherwise.

The size is right, too… just 17.5mm X 11.5mm.
I’m interested to run it side by side with the voltage regulator and seeing the idle draw difference.


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[cheech53]

Well, I take back the size and cost statement… found a minuscule little buck module that will handle input voltages from 4.75-23V and output 1.0-17.0V. And all for just $8 per batch of 10. A steal compared to the $8-17 per unit I was finding otherwise.

The size is right, too… just 17.5mm X 11.5mm.
I’m interested to run it side by side with the voltage regulator and seeing the idle draw difference.


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I am sure you will be surprised, the test should be with out the camera.

 

[IkemanTx]

I am sure you will be surprised, the test should be with out the camera.

Well, with some issues with my Gen 1 solar battery packs, I found out that the bigger original solar panels that claimed to have a diode in them absolutely did not.

I think I will take the opportunity to switch them to the buck converters as well when i add the diode in. I accidentally ordered 6 sticks of 10 buck converters instead of 6 individuals. I didn’t notice that the listing was all the boards still stuck together… oops.


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[cheech53]

Well, with some issues with my Gen 1 solar battery packs, I found out that the bigger original solar panels that claimed to have a diode in them absolutely did not.

I think I will take the opportunity to switch them to the buck converters as well when i add the diode in. I accidentally ordered 6 sticks of 10 buck converters instead of 6 individuals. I didn’t notice that the listing was all the boards still stuck together… oops.


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Maybe you can send most of them back , keep us up to date on you progress

 

[IkemanTx]

I see you are using a voltage regulator you may want to consider a adjustable buck converter because the voltage regulator will use more power from batteries they heat up to about 140 degrees I think there are you tube videos on this. I see you also have a diode what kind is it and spec.

The older solar setup with the voltage regulators have still performed pretty well. I have a camera going in the back yard on one of them. It has no internal batteries, but filled a 128 Gb memory card with 1,903 video clips of the dogs running around.

I think that if I put rechargeable batteries in the camera, I could probably indefinitely run at least 2 cameras off of one of the solar setups. Especially after soldering in the diodes and replacing the voltage regulator with a buck converter.

If my little public land versions perform this well, I will be a VERY happy camper. Just waiting on shipping now…. The 3D print service has been much slower than I had hoped. They “began production” 9 days ago, and the file should be a 8-10 hour print at the most…


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[cheech53]

The older solar setup with the voltage regulators have still performed pretty well. I have a camera going in the back yard on one of them. It has no internal batteries, but filled a 128 Gb memory card with 1,903 video clips of the dogs running around.

I think that if I put rechargeable batteries in the camera, I could probably indefinitely run at least 2 cameras off of one of the solar setups. Especially after soldering in the diodes and replacing the voltage regulator with a buck converter.

If my little public land versions perform this well, I will be a VERY happy camper. Just waiting on shipping now…. The 3D print service has been much slower than I had hoped. They “began production” 9 days ago, and the file should be a 8-10 hour print at the most…


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Remember rechargeable NiMH batteries only put out 1.2 to 1.4 volts may not work in your camera, and make sure of the external power is work the right way for you , some cameras external power is parallel with internals and some of them work with external power is a higher voltage than internal so it keeps them separate , I am Still interested in the difference between the buck converter and the voltage regulator keep us up-to-date on that

 

[IkemanTx]

Remember rechargeable NiMH batteries only put out 1.2 to 1.4 volts may not work in your camera, and make sure of the external power is work the right way for you , some cameras external power is parallel with internals and some of them work with external power is a higher voltage than internal so it keeps them separate , I am Still interested in the difference between the buck converter and the voltage regulator keep us up-to-date on that

Ya, the newest versions of my Browning cameras moved from 6 to 8 AA batteries. I feel pretty comfortable running a 9-volt board with rechargeable when they finally add up to over 9 volts! Haha.


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[IkemanTx]

So, the BMS (battery management system) boards finally arrived from China, so i assembled a couple of the lithium battery only packs.

They worked like a charm.

With the lag bolt/lag screw mount system I use for my cameras, I should have JUST enough space to Velcro these packs to the back of the camera and not be any more visible for other people on public land to find them. Obviously these will end up painted camo to help hide them. I am thinking a sponge paint job when all 6 are done.

This is the equivalent of 2 entire sets of lithium ultimate batteries and should last at least 16-18 months, without internal batteries, almost no matter how much it triggers. I am pairing them with at least 128 Gb cards so that the cards don’t fill too fast.

Now if the 3D printing would finally ship…. I would get that portion of the project started.


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[IkemanTx]

The 3D prints came in, with 2 minor issues that were entirely my fault. I hadn’t noticed that 2 of my design components weren’t touching the main box when I merged the objects during exporting. The extra support for the mounting screw hex head, and the 12V lettering on the outside were each slightly separate, causing the printing of those components to fail.
The Hex head support was 0.2mm off and the 12V lettering was 0.1mm, so neither component adhered to the box. Minor imperfections, to be honest, and not required for it to function.

This is the failed hex head component. And the 12V lettering didn’t fall off until I unwrapped it. So close to adhering!!!

I am only home in Texas for 16 hours tonight between work trips, so I won’t be soldering and assembling parts until next week at the earliest. But, here is a rough dry fit.

10 AA’s (NiMh) soldered into a 12V pack fit perfectly with room for wiring.

The 1.5w solar panel fit perfectly with enough room around the edges to protect the edges of the panel.

Size comparison vs a Browning Dark Ops camera. These should be east to conceal after a camo paint job.

The holes for the waterproof female DC plugs were absolutely perfect, and the hole for the solar panel aligned precisely. Looks like all the time taking notes with calipers paid off.

I can’t wait to get these things finished now… I am so stoked!!!


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[cheech53]

The 3D prints came in, with 2 minor issues that were entirely my fault. I hadn’t noticed that 2 of my design components weren’t touching the main box when I merged the objects during exporting. The extra support for the mounting screw hex head, and the 12V lettering on the outside were each slightly separate, causing the printing of those components to fail.
The Hex head support was 0.2mm off and the 12V lettering was 0.1mm, so neither component adhered to the box. Minor imperfections, to be honest, and not required for it to function.

This is the failed hex head component. And the 12V lettering didn’t fall off until I unwrapped it. So close to adhering!!!

I am only home in Texas for 16 hours tonight between work trips, so I won’t be soldering and assembling parts until next week at the earliest. But, here is a rough dry fit.

10 AA’s (NiMh) soldered into a 12V pack fit perfectly with room for wiring.

The 1.5w solar panel fit perfectly with enough room around the edges to protect the edges of the panel.

Size comparison vs a Browning Dark Ops camera. These should be east to conceal after a camo paint job.

The holes for the waterproof female DC plugs were absolutely perfect, and the hole for the solar panel aligned precisely. Looks like all the time taking notes with calipers paid off.

I can’t wait to get these things finished now… I am so stoked!!!


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Nice and compact what are you using to protect the batteries from over charging from the 12v 1.5w solar panel and the regulated 12v to camera ( a buck converter )? Also you probably need a diode in there too ? I think you said before you use this with no battery in camera so with that said with only 10 NiMH batteries is that enough to keep camera working year around.

 

[IkemanTx]

Nice and compact what are you using to protect the batteries from over charging from the 12v 1.5w solar panel and the regulated 12v to camera ( a buck converter )? Also you probably need a diode in there too ? I think you said before you use this with no battery in camera so with that said with only 10 NiMH batteries is that enough to keep camera working year around.

I’m not running any protection for the battery pack. The guy I’m basing this on has been running a pack like this (with voltage regulators instead of buck converter) for 2-3 years with a 1.8 watt panel in full sun locations. I know it will reduce the lifespan of the pack with potential overcharge, but I doubt I will run a full 1.5 watts very often. These will be in woods settings, so I am anticipating a trickle charge most of the time. These panels do a surprisingly decent job in low light, but I haven’t noticed any over-voltage on these panels in full sun either. 12.8v is the highest voltage I have recorded on the above panel.

The larger 1.8 watt panel design I based this on (my Gen-1 design) runs over voltage like crazy in full sun. That panel has shown 22v when in full sun, which surprised me for a supposed 12v panel. I figure if his batteries can last 2-3 years in worse conditions, these will probably do just fine.


I am running a diode between the panel and the pack to stop reverse current into the panel, and took your advice on the Buck Converter for the camera’s 12V supply side. I also added an extra 5.5 X 2.1 mm female plug that will allow me to test nominal voltage of the battery without the buck converter. That way, I can see the actual charge state of the battery pack.

I can’t really justify any further iterations of this project, but if I were to continue going down this rabbit hole, I think I’d start looking into learning how to design pcb’s and try to incorporate a single board with diode, BMS with balanced charging, and a low temp protection and design a setup around LifePo4 pouch cells. There’s already too many $70ish units available on alibaba that do most of that.


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[IkemanTx]

I have been flying 5 days a week for work, so progress is CRAWLING on this project. But, after this paint job all I have left is assembly!

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[yoderjac]

very nice work!