P-18 Apple Rootstock Cold Hardiness?

[nickh]

I know a bunch of you have P-18 as apple rootstock. I'm interested in trying it. I've read that it is "cold hardy" but that means different things to different people. I'm in zone 3b and we got down to -33F last year. For those of you that are growing it, can you share what your winters are like, and I'd be especially interested in hearing if anyone's died because of cold. I'm trying to figure out if it is much different in cold hardiness than B-118 or Antonovka (which grow OK here). Thanks.

 

[chummer]

I am 3b/4a and have some growing. I also have b.118 and Antonovka. I have not lost any trees due to the roots, many due to the tops but never the roots. They always grow back after the tops die. I have a few days a year in the -30’s

 

[Ben.MN/WI]

I use Antonovka and B118 rootstock in Rusk County WI with good luck. I've never tried P-18 though, so I can't help you there.

 

[nickh]

I am 3b/4a and have some growing. I also have b.118 and Antonovka. I have not lost any trees due to the roots, many due to the tops but never the roots. They always grow back after the tops die. I have a few days a year in the -30’s

Thanks, so when you say that you have lost many due to the tops, am I understanding you correctly that you have lost ones where the scion maybe isn't as hardy but the P-18 rootstock still turns out OK? Have you noticed any difference between P-18 and the other rootstocks for the tops dying? Thanks!

 

[chummer]

Thanks, so when you say that you have lost many due to the tops, am I understanding you correctly that you have lost ones where the scion maybe isn't as hardy but the P-18 rootstock still turns out OK? Have you noticed any difference between P-18 and the other rootstocks for the tops dying? Thanks!

Yes it is the scion. I used to push the zone hardiness and paid for it most of the time. I have not noticed rootstock has made a difference.

 

[Bowsnbucks]

I'm not from as cold of a zone as you are - or Chummer - but if you graft some scion to P-18, you might want to choose a cold-hardy variety of scion. Alexander, Goodland, Haralson, Minnesota 1734, Norkent, Parkland, Prairie Magic, Rescue, Winter Redflesh, and Wolf River should all do well for you. Or some of those great wild crabs you guys in Minn. and Wisc. have!!

 

[nickh]

Yes it is the scion. I used to push the zone hardiness and paid for it most of the time. I have not noticed rootstock has made a difference.

Good to hear that P-18 has worked for you in a similar climate to mine!

I don't know if you've seen this article, but in it Bernie Nikolai from Alberta says that he's been able to increase the hardiness of apples to grow in his 3a/2b climate by frameworking the scion on a hardy rootstock. He says that the most tender part of an apple tree is the roots, the lower trunk, and the crotch angles that come out of the main trunk, and that by letting the hardy tree grow 6"-12" of branches off the main trunk before grafting it, you can greatly increase the hardiness of the scion. I'm not sure if other people have tried it, but that's what I'm hoping to do - plant some P-18 rootstocks and let them grow probably 4 main branches and then graft a different variety onto each branch. We'll see, it will be an experiment if zones can be pushed a little bit doing it that way. But of course is dependent on the P-18 surviving OK. Thanks.

 

[chummer]

Good to hear that P-18 has worked for you in a similar climate to mine!

I don't know if you've seen this article, but in it Bernie Nikolai from Alberta says that he's been able to increase the hardiness of apples to grow in his 3a/2b climate by frameworking the scion on a hardy rootstock. He says that the most tender part of an apple tree is the roots, the lower trunk, and the crotch angles that come out of the main trunk, and that by letting the hardy tree grow 6"-12" of branches off the main trunk before grafting it, you can greatly increase the hardiness of the scion. I'm not sure if other people have tried it, but that's what I'm hoping to do - plant some P-18 rootstocks and let them grow probably 4 main branches and then graft a different variety onto each branch. We'll see, it will be an experiment if zones can be pushed a little bit doing it that way. But of course is dependent on the P-18 surviving OK. Thanks.

That is great news because I did this very thing. I planted a bunch of rootstock 3 years ago and grafted them last spring. I am very anxious to see how they make it through their first winter.

 

[sandbur]

I believe part of Bernie’s information is based on this grafting bring 5-6 feet off of the ground. Temperatures are usually lower at ground level or maybe we should say snow level.

What are the advantages of P 118?



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[sandbur]

I know a bunch of you have P-18 as apple rootstock. I'm interested in trying it. I've read that it is "cold hardy" but that means different things to different people. I'm in zone 3b and we got down to -33F last year. For those of you that are growing it, can you share what your winters are like, and I'd be especially interested in hearing if anyone's died because of cold. I'm trying to figure out if it is much different in cold hardiness than B-118 or Antonovka (which grow OK here). Thanks.

Have you considered dolgo rootstock or red splendor? They should do well in your climate like in mine.


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[nickh]

I've thought about Dolgo but haven't heard of red splendor. The main thing that interests me about P.18 is that people talk about it being really good for wet soil and that's what I have, wet clay soil. I want something that anchors well in that since my B-118 trees have had trouble in that soil it seems.