Ohio Farm Tours

[Buckhunter10]

 

[Buckhunter10]

Vitalize plots were busy for us last few days. Found two target bucks, and got a new plot installed. Also planted 19 fruit trees - good few days!

This new plot will be in our Alfalfa edge and premium

 

[Buckhunter10]

When to Apply Micronutrients and Why You Don’t Need Much

Micronutrients are needed in very small amounts
Most are measured in parts per million

You are not trying to build them
You are trying to make sure they are available

This is where Liebig’s Law comes in

Think of your soil like a bucket
The lowest hole determines how much it can hold

Even when everything looks good on paper
A small micronutrient deficiency can limit the entire system

That is why micros can move the needle
Not because you need a lot
But because you are filling the lowest hole

Best timing:

Pre-plant, ahead of a rain

This helps move micros into the soil solution
And positions them in the root zone early

Foliar can also play a role

Products like Bio-Charge, built on fish emulsion with humic, fulvic, and seaweed
Help deliver micronutrients and trace elements foliarly

This is especially useful in systems where availability is limited

Vitalize Micros is designed to cover key micronutrients
Including boron, molybdenum, copper, zinc, and others

But intentionally we leave out iron

Iron is already high in many soils
And excess iron can create antagonism with nutrients like phosphorus and zinc

The goal is not more fertilizer
It is better positioning, timing, and balance

Small amounts applied correctly can drive big results

 

[BC Buck]

Vitalize plots were busy for us last few days. Found two target bucks, and got a new plot installed. Also planted 19 fruit trees - good few days!

This new plot will be in our Alfalfa edge and premium
View attachment 90987View attachment 90988View attachment 90989View attachment 90990

I hate stumps like that. Sooner or later I end up hitting with something.

 

[Buckhunter10]

I hate stumps like that. Sooner or later I end up hitting with something.

Yes my buddy is gunna bring his stump planer and we’ll get them out. Or pop them with bucket. He got others out with bucket - this wasn’t finished project yet. But close.

 

[Buckhunter10]

My good buddy expanded another plot for me. We need more food and we will get it through another 4-5 acres added so far. Excited for this!

 

[Buckhunter10]

Vitalize EDU: What is OM (Organic Matter) actually doing in your soil?

OM isn’t just one thing. It exists in two forms:

• Active (labile) OM → breaks down and feeds microbes

• Stable OM → long-term carbon that supports structure and resilience

The active portion is key. It helps:

• Feed soil biology
• Improve water holding capacity
• Aid nutrient cycling

Here’s the part most miss:

Organic matter is often NOT fully accounted for in standard soil test recommendations. It acts more like a reserve that biology can unlock over time.

I like to look at OM as a byproduct of good management, not the sole goal.

In many systems, it’s a bonus.

But here’s the catch:

OM is more qualitative than quantitative.

We know it’s beneficial, but we don’t always know exactly how much nutrient it will release or when.

That depends on:
• Tillage vs. no-till
• Crop type (row crop vs. garden vs. food plot)
• Biology and microbial activity
• How well the system is cycling

If OM builds without proper cycling, it can:
• Tie nutrients up
• Slow availability
• In some cases, increase disease pressure depending on crop and conditions

Bottom line:
OM is powerful, but it’s not just about having it, it’s about managing it.

 

[Buckhunter10]

Vitalize EDU: What Nitrate Is (and Isn’t) Doing in Your Soil

Nitrate (NO3-) is a plant-available form of nitrogen.

Here’s where people get confused:

Nitrate itself is naturally occurring, formed through the soil’s nitrogen cycle.

But colloquially, “synthetic N” refers to nitrogen that is manufactured (ex: Haber-Bosch process and salt-based fertilizers).

So:

• Chemically - nitrate is natural
• Colloquially - “synthetic N” = manufactured nitrogen inputs

Both behave the same once in the soil.

Nitrate is:

• Rapidly available
• Immediately usable by plants
• Highly mobile

It helps drive protein formation and plant growth.

But nitrate is NOT:

• Your total nitrogen supply
• A season-long guarantee

It’s just a snapshot of what’s available right now.

Organic nitrogen (from biomass, manure, cover crops) is different:

It’s tied to carbon compounds like amino acids (ex: glycine - NH2 - CH2 - COOH) and must be cycled by microbes before becoming available.

That’s why timing and system matter:

• Winter tests often show lower nitrate
• Summer = more biological activity, more available N
• Legume crops can supply N, but much is tied up in biomass

This is where C:N ratios and cycling come into play.

If you’re

• Row cropping / gardening - nitrate matters more
• Running diverse or legume mixes - rely more on biology

Bonus tip:
Don’t overlook sulfur.
N + S work together for protein synthesis.

Bottom line:
Nitrate matters, but it’s just one piece of the system.

 

[Westwind]

Maybe this was answered and I didn’t see it but will lime be needed immediately on the new cleared area? Or did I miss the point of the other info entirely!

 

[Buckhunter10]

Maybe this was answered and I didn’t see it but will lime be needed immediately on the new cleared area? Or did I miss the point of the other info entirely!

So my guess is yes but I’ll be pulling samples shortly. I’ll likely hammer it with lime over the next year. I’ll also use a lot of organic nutrients to speed up breakdown process of the heavy c:n residue.

 

[Buckhunter10]

Vitalize EDU: What Phosphorus Is (and Isn’t) Doing in Your Soil

Phosphorus (P) is one of the most misunderstood nutrients in soil.

It’s highly immobile - meaning it doesn’t move much in the soil profile.

That’s why many degraded soils test low in P, even when some may be present. The issue often isn’t just supply - it’s availability.

Phosphorus is critical for:

• Root development
• Energy transfer in the plant

Specifically, P drives ATP (adenosine triphosphate), the plant’s energy currency. Simply put - phosphorus helps the plant create and move energy.

But here’s the challenge: phosphorus doesn’t move well to roots on its own.

This is where biology matters.

Mycorrhizal fungi extend the root system and help access phosphorus that would otherwise be unavailable. This is most effective in well-developed soils with high diversity, active biology, and strong fungal networks.

This is also where organic nutrient systems can shine.

I’m a big fan of placement.

Using products like:

• Seed Feed
• Spectrum+Myco

As a seed coating helps:

• Put small amounts of nutrients (including P) directly on the seed
• Jumpstart biological activity
• Improve early root interaction with fungi

Now - more is NOT better with phosphorus.

Too much P:

• Gets tied up quickly
• Builds in the soil
• Can create nutrient antagonisms

A big one is zinc.

High phosphorus can reduce zinc availability, and zinc is critical for enzyme function, hormone regulation, and overall plant development.

That’s why balance matters.

Pay attention to your P:Zn ratio. A general target is around 10:1 to 15:1 for proper balance.

Bottom line:

Phosphorus is essential, but availability is driven by placement, biology, and balance - not just how much is in the soil.