New Frost Seeded Switchgrass Field

[titan23_87]

Back in January I frost seeded my primarily bare dirt 2 acre field that I wanted to convert to switch (blocking road and neighbor screening). Here in Ohio we've had a warmer winter with a lot of heavy rains. And now yesterday we had a strong storm that produced more moving water through this field then I've ever seen before. Since the seed was frost seeded and in the dirt or just germinating, should i worry that it was washed out and should reseed here in May?

 

[Hoytvectrix]

I frost seeded a new area in northern Missouri (likely similar enough USDA Zone to Ohio) this spring and was having germination and emergence as of 10 days ago. I know you guys were a little cooler and wetter, but maybe you had some emergence already? If not, I would be skeptical that the seed is still there given that it was seeded to bare soil.

As another anecdote, I drilled in some switchgrass seed last year on July 2nd into a dead old food plot because we literally couldn't get into the field prior to that, and stayed on top of weeds at establishment and afterwards. By the fall, I had a terrific stand that was about two feet tall by the end of the growing season. It's been filling in quite well this year. The point is, if you are really desperate but have access to renting/borrowing a drill, you still have plenty of time to get some switchgrass in the ground.

 

[WImuzz]

Without access to a drill, do you think I still have time for a switchgrass stand? I currently have 2 stands of CIR that I frost seeded last year here in Wisconsin. In year 1, they were almost 3 feet tall and came in perfectly. I failed to prep the ground last fall, so did not get to frost seed another stand this year. The ground temp in my area is 49 degrees according to GreenCast. I have access to a tiller, discs and cultipacker.
So can I still get switchgrass planted successfully without drilling? What is the best way to plant it in late May?
Does it need to be stratified? If so, without the freezing/thawing, will I get poor germination rate?

 

[titan23_87]

I frost seeded a new area in northern Missouri (likely similar enough USDA Zone to Ohio) this spring and was having germination and emergence as of 10 days ago. I know you guys were a little cooler and wetter, but maybe you had some emergence already? If not, I would be skeptical that the seed is still there given that it was seeded to bare soil.

As another anecdote, I drilled in some switchgrass seed last year on July 2nd into a dead old food plot because we literally couldn't get into the field prior to that, and stayed on top of weeds at establishment and afterwards. By the fall, I had a terrific stand that was about two feet tall by the end of the growing season. It's been filling in quite well this year. The point is, if you are really desperate but have access to renting/borrowing a drill, you still have plenty of time to get some switchgrass in the ground.

I'm also without access to a drill. I was beginning to see some germination. Should I wait until I think we are in a clear spell of rain and broadcast over the top? If you think even some seed has been washed away I could target those areas. Soil temp here for the last 5 days avg is 62.5 degrees ....Thoughts?

 

[Rit]

Switchgrass seeds need to go thru a stratification process to aid in germination. If you plant switchgrass this late there is a really really good chance it won’t germinate until next year. Without mechanical stratification at this point germination rates are bound to be really really low. The frost seeding isn’t only for good seed to soil contact but just as much to reduce the dormancy of the seed thru stratification.

if I wanted switch in an area right now I would probably opt for good weed control until I could seed anytime after let’s say November. If a screen was needed for an area I’d plant a 15’ temp screen that would grow 10-15’ tall.

 

[Rit]

Without access to a drill, do you think I still have time for a switchgrass stand? I currently have 2 stands of CIR that I frost seeded last year here in Wisconsin. In year 1, they were almost 3 feet tall and came in perfectly. I failed to prep the ground last fall, so did not get to frost seed another stand this year. The ground temp in my area is 49 degrees according to GreenCast. I have access to a tiller, discs and cultipacker.
So can I still get switchgrass planted successfully without drilling? What is the best way to plant it in late May?
Does it need to be stratified? If so, without the freezing/thawing, will I get poor germination rate?

You could try to mechanically stratify the seeds. There is loads of info on the web on how to do it. Usually involves water, freezing thawing etc. I also think you can buy stratified seed. You could also call Osenbaughs seed in Iowa and talk to John. He would be able to give you some expert advice.

 

[titan23_87]

You could try to mechanically stratify the seeds. There is loads of info on the web on how to do it. Usually involves water, freezing thawing etc. I also think you can buy stratified seed. You could also call Osenbaughs seed in Iowa and talk to John. He would be able to give you some expert advice.

Rit- do you think those areas in the photos with the moving water washed away what seed or seedlings I had there?

 

[Hoytvectrix]

Rit- do you think those areas in the photos with the moving water washed away what seed or seedlings I had there?

I'm sure it did.

To answer your other questions and add to what Rit said, I think you could have some marginal success broadcasting switchgrass seed now and getting it established. Most CIR switch vendors say about 75% of the seed comes pre-stratified or does not need stratification. The seed that I purchased and drilled last year probably falls within those estimates, as I had a bunch of newer seedlings germinating this spring that must have come from last year's drilling.

If money wasn't too much of a concern, I would consider just lightly cultivating the surface once it dries, and re-seed into it. Then, take a metal leaf rake turned upside down, and lightly rake in the new switchgrass seedlings. If money and effort are a concern, you can just wait to see what germinates. More than likely if you don't get a good establishment, you could just wait till the fall, and ensure it's all dead for a dormant seeded early spring seeding.

 

[titan23_87]

When looking at potentially buying some more seed to reseed. What are your guys' thoughts on other seed varieties that are available? As mentioned I used CIR initially, but what about over seeding with a taller variety like Colony or Kanlow? I know i've read before being cautious on various heights in mixes as it can shade out the other varieties. Thoughts/experience with any of those?

 

[scott44]

I mix CIR and Kanlow probably 75% CIR 25% Kanlow.

 

[Rit]

Rit- do you think those areas in the photos with the moving water washed away what seed or seedlings I had there?

Fast moving water on bare soil. It’s not looking good. Where ever that water deposits I am guessing you will have a bunch of switch seedlings at some point.

 

[Rit]

When looking at potentially buying some more seed to reseed. What are your guys' thoughts on other seed varieties that are available? As mentioned I used CIR initially, but what about over seeding with a taller variety like Colony or Kanlow? I know i've read before being cautious on various heights in mixes as it can shade out the other varieties. Thoughts/experience with any of those?

When I planted 7 acres I mixed CIR and Kanlow. If I had to do it again tomorrow I would go 100% Kanlow

 

[titan23_87]

Switch seedlings?

 

[Rit]

When you pull back the leaves where it meets the stem do you see a dense patch of fine hair? All switch seedlings that I find have a pronounced purple where the stem meets the dirt. The stem is also round. The roots can help identify it also. Don’t want to be Debbie Downer but that looks to be foxtail. Hope I am wrong.

 

[Rit]

 

[titan23_87]

Ok for the sake of discussion, I dug up and washed off 2 diff types of the most pronounced sprouting I’m seeing. I don’t see the hair you had described.

my guess this one was the foxtail:

 

[Hoytvectrix]

First ones are yellow nutsedge. They are popping up everywhere right now in the Midwest. The bottom photograph I'm leaning toward quackgrass. You should be able to find a clasping auricle on it near the base of the leaf where it is connected to the stem.

 

[titan23_87]

First ones are yellow nutsedge. They are popping up everywhere right now in the Midwest. The bottom photograph I'm leaning toward quackgrass. You should be able to find a clasping auricle on it near the base of the leaf where it is connected to the stem.

will switchgrass out compete, if I mow in the summer once it gets of length, or am I screwed? Everything I’ve read here on yellow nutsedge it’s like a death sentence.

 

[Rit]

will switchgrass out compete, if I mow in the summer once it gets of length, or am I screwed? Everything I’ve read here on yellow nutsedge it’s like a death sentence.

Foxtail has hairs on the upper blades so if no hairs it’s not Foxtail. Maybe green doesn’t but yellow does. If you mow to keep the weeds in check you can still be okay but you need to clip just above the switch. If you actually have switch in there once it has 3 or 4 leaves you can spray it. Next year early in the season you can spray before the switch wakes up to set weeds back. You may also find you need to seed again. You need to have a lot of patience. Once the switch gets seed heads you will get a better understanding of what kind of stand you have.

 

[S.T.Fanatic]

will switchgrass out compete, if I mow in the summer once it gets of length, or am I screwed? Everything I’ve read here on yellow nutsedge it’s like a death sentence.

When it comes to long lived native grasses it isn't just plant and walk away. There will be mowing, spraying, and burning that needs to be done.