New chainsaw help

[Bowsnbucks]

Different piece of " timber ", huh Stu???!!! :eek::D

 

[scott44]

I picked the saw up, hopefully I'll have some new hinge pics for you by the end of the weekend. I'm sure they all offer this but if you buy a 6pk of Stihl oil they give you another year on the warranty so it's an extended warranty for $13.

 

[Bowsnbucks]

Scott44 - Stihl does the 6-pack of syn. oil all over. If you get a new saw - that's cheap warranty.

 

[chummer]

Does anyone know if their saws have that same screen over the exhaust their trimmers and blowers have? I always forget to take them off and they end up gumming up the machine in a year or so. I figure I would be proactive and take it off while it is new.

 

[Jim Timber]

Does anyone know if their saws have that same screen over the exhaust their trimmers and blowers have? I always forget to take them off and they end up gumming up the machine in a year or so. I figure I would be proactive and take it off while it is new.

That's a spark arrestor, and most saws sold now have one. If it's getting gummed up, you're running way too rich and not burning all the fuel sent through the saw.

Also, they might say 50:1 mix ratio on the label, but run it at least 40:1 or better yet 32:1 oil. Saw failures on properly tuned engines aren't from scored pistons, they're from bearing's seizing. When running 32:1 mix, you also need to tune the saw richer - the 50:1 recommendation is how they meet the EPA standards, it's not how you keep a saw happy for 30 years reliable service.

If you want more power do a muffler mod. There's lots of info online about what to do and how not to mess it up. I don't have any stock mufflers on anything but my brush cutter (glorified 42cc weed whacker), and that's mainly because I haven't gotten around to it. :D A freely breathing engine is a happy engine. They also lower the operating temperature (good for longevity).

 

[tooln]

Jim hit the nail on the head. You do need some back pressure on the exhaust, but not nearly as much as stock. Just look at any NASCAR or NHRA exhaust. How many do you see with a full exhaust system. NONE

 

[chummer]

That's a spark arrestor, and most saws sold now have one. If it's getting gummed up, you're running way too rich and not burning all the fuel sent through the saw.

Also, they might say 50:1 mix ratio on the label, but run it at least 40:1 or better yet 32:1 oil. Saw failures on properly tuned engines aren't from scored pistons, they're from bearing's seizing. When running 32:1 mix, you also need to tune the saw richer - the 50:1 recommendation is how they meet the EPA standards, it's not how you keep a saw happy for 30 years reliable service.

If you want more power do a muffler mod. There's lots of info online about what to do and how not to mess it up. I don't have any stock mufflers on anything but my brush cutter (glorified 42cc weed whacker), and that's mainly because I haven't gotten around to it. :D A freely breathing engine is a happy engine. They also lower the operating temperature (good for longevity).

Thanks for the help. I always run 50:1 so I will adjust that.

 

[Jim Timber]

I used to run 45:1ish (50:1 and a bit for good measure) until I learned more about saw tuning for power. Everyone who makes performance saws (the builders who get more HP out of them, not the OEMs) says run 32:1. Add 30psi compression and use 50:1 and watch your engine self-destruct in a couple hours. That's what convinced me that more oil is better regardless of if you've hot-rodded it or not.

 

[scott44]

I used to run 45:1ish (50:1 and a bit for good measure) until I learned more about saw tuning for power. Everyone who makes performance saws (the builders who get more HP out of them, not the OEMs) says run 32:1. Add 30psi compression and use 50:1 and watch your engine self-destruct in a couple hours. That's what convinced me that more oil is better regardless of if you've hot-rodded it or not.

Thanks Jim!

 

[chummer]

I am bad at this stuff so for a bottle that makes 2 gallons at 50:1 how much gas would you use for 35:1.

 

[browndog]

I am bad at this stuff so for a bottle that makes 2 gallons at 50:1 how much gas would you use for 35:1.

You have 5oz of oil so a little less than 1.5 gallons. 32:1 ratio is 4 ounces to a gallon.

 

[chummer]

You have 5oz of oil so a little less than 1.5 gallons. 32:1 ratio is 4 ounces to a gallon.

Thanks

 

[j-bird]

For those of you (myself included) that do not use chaps, I have found that a good pair of upland bird hunting pants work well against briars and the like. I realize they are not as good, but the addition of the heavy/double layer on the front of them is real nice to have. They appear to be a basic pair of denim pants, but from the top of the upper thigh to the cuff has an additional haeavy canvas type material. Mine even have the back of the calf covered as well. I can plow thru briars without issue in mine.

Chainsaw is like a motorcycle - you typically don't hear of a minor accident - either your fine or......well.......not so fine.....or worse.

Good luck Scott - gott'a go rub the new off of it.

 

[wildfire]

As important as oil is. Add sea foam and use nonoxegenated fuel. Better yet use avgas, 100 octane low lead available at airports,it never goes bad.

 

[wiscwhip]

Jim hit the nail on the head. You do need some back pressure on the exhaust, but not nearly as much as stock. Just look at any NASCAR or NHRA exhaust. How many do you see with a full exhaust system. NONE

Exhaust is even more important on a chainsaw due to the fact they are 2-stroke engines. Back when I used to race snowmobiles, our Super Stock class allowed you to modify the stock exhaust pipe, but it had to maintain the stock "look". Pretty much you removed all the baffles and other items that restricted air flow. You could not use an aftermarket pipe with a tuned expansion chamber or you moved up to Super Modified. If you have never seen a "Hot Saw" competition in a Lumberjack Competition, Google it and look at the exhaust on their saws. Not practical for actual cutting, but that is where a lot of the extra power comes from. We ported our own engines as well, to help them "breath" better. That's a whole nother animal, and I bet it wouldn't be very easy in the small cylinders of a chainsaw engine.

 

[Jim Timber]

The bigger the exhaust outlet is in the muffler, the louder they are too. You don't want to get too crazy. I messed around with my echo 352 and made it far more unpleasant to run than I cared for, so I changed it back to a more restricted outlet - it'll still wind out to 16,000 rpms, but it makes the best power richened up to run around 13K which is within the factory specs for the saws free revving rpms.

 

[JackTerp]

One warning that I ran into. If you turn in a warranty issue with either Stihl or Husqvarna the first thing they do is test the gas in it. If you are running 32-1 or 40-1 rates, they will void the warranty. I went through this with a 455 Rancher. I was running 35-1 and it threw a rod. Was only 8 weeks old. Husky would not honor the warranty. My dealer told me the same thing when I just bought a Husky Clearing Saw. He knows me and told me right up front that I needed to run 50-1 for the length of the warranty.

 

[wiscwhip]

The bigger the exhaust outlet is in the muffler, the louder they are too. You don't want to get too crazy. I messed around with my echo 352 and made it far more unpleasant to run than I cared for, so I changed it back to a more restricted outlet - it'll still wind out to 16,000 rpms, but it makes the best power richened up to run around 13K which is within the factory specs for the saws free revving rpms.

Definitely a concern for frequent use in the woods. On the track, not so much of a concern. My little brother had a built Sportster back in the day and I hated riding anywhere with him. My bike was piped and that thing was annoying over the top of my exhaust.

 

[Jim Timber]

Because you probably can't adjust the saw rich enough to run that mix without removing the needle limiters. Thanks EPA! :rolleyes: 32:1 burns hotter than 50:1 and needs to be richened up to slow the saw down.

I didn't even start my Jonsered 2188 before removing the carb limiters. Can't properly tune it with them in place, and they serve no function other than making it impossible to add enough fuel to make power.

 

[Jim Timber]

If you think this is just some "anti-big government" horse puckey - the tier 2 emissions changes on the tractor I bought have the fuel injection pump timing retarded to .5 degrees after top dead center. They added a turbo and lost power over the previous generation Naturally aspirated version of that engine! They need to advance the timing 6-7 degrees just to get it to fire cold. :eek: