omicron1792
5 year old buck +
I use large seed box with filler for other NWSG. But for switch just put in small seed box and let er rip.
GP/LP 3P600 or 3P606NT user thread
- Thread starter Brian662
- Start date
swat1018
5 year old buck +
Only skipping one row? I was thinking plant one, and skip 2, for 22.5" rows.
Bill
Administrator
It’s been a few years but last time I only blocked every other and it turned out pretty good. 9” between my roes so they’ll be 18 inches apart. And it skips and cracks seed here and there.
Diesel5610
5 year old buck +
I planted BC Big Rock last year at 7lb an acre out of the small seed box. Started calibration at the alfalfa setting and only had to tweak it a little. Worked great. I have read that Big Rock might be a tad bigger than other switchgrass but I don’t know that, still pretty small. Biggest issue is making sure the depth settings are so the seed isn’t getting buried too deep. I set it so it was barely breaking surface.
Foggy47
5 year old buck +
thanks for this input!! I was thinking about the "depth setting" when using the small seed box. I think most all of us with a GP drill have the small seed box tube oriented to spill the seed about 9" behind those openers....and not allot gets very deep in that created "trench" cut by the openers. More accurate is that.....the seed is scattered in soil lightly disturbed by those openers.....and then pressed into this disturbed area by the press wheels.
At least that is my "take" on what happens when drilling with the small seed box. When I do drill the switch....I may try to get some video of this happening to further illustrate my point. I have a magnetic phone mount for my tractor....and it really grasps my phone tightly and the magnets are very strong. (It's made for tractor use). Maybe that will be cool to discuss drilled seeds?
omicron1792
5 year old buck +
I think everything you say is true.
However mine does make 1” deep furrows and I’m sure some seed does make it deep in the trench. You make consider moving your drive wheel down another notch or two shooting for 1/2” furrows.
Foggy47
5 year old buck +
Yep....in my sand....the "trench" does not last long as it will cave in as the opener passes by. OTOH the small seeds are easily pressed into this disturbed sand. A bit of this may depend on how dry the sand is when drilled and travel speed and other variables.
The issue for me becomes....that you could get enough moisture to cause germination.....then the sand can dry out very quickly....and the seed dies due to lack of more moisture. It's a thin line when rain does not happen each week. Keeping some mulch over the seeds helps a bunch. After the roots get 6 or more inches deep...you got a good chance of ongoing success.
Kinda hoping I can capture this on video. So much to learn....so little time.
omicron1792
5 year old buck +
I totally get it. I have areas just like what you describe.
Switch is a native grass meant for those areas. Pressed into a little bit of loose soil it will grow great even in dry conditions.
If it gets an inch down into a furrow and covered it just won’t grow.
Foggy47
5 year old buck +
Got my drill hooked up today and calibrated perfect on the first shot. The drill is level, and ready to roll....maybe tomorrow. Used the drill settings for alfalfa....and come in almost on the nose (that work sheet show an old method I used at one point. Disregard as I the math is not right for this method).
Also FINALLY found the "real estate" to mount my seed rate manual on the side of the drill. That should be a handy spot for it.....tired of searching for it every time I need it. My foam marker pump and reservoir takes up the spot that GP used for that manual box.
Also show my (4) weights mounted on the sides of the drill with Z brackets I had made for my drill. I think those weights add 240 lbs to the drill. Add the extra step / walk board....and I think I am all done with mods for this year. Pics below.
The last pic shows the alternate hole location from the 3 point lift cylinders to the tractor drag links. My drill was hard to lift high enough to place it on the rolling cart I have. So by choosing these pin locations my drill can be lifted about 8" higher than the past.....and my drag links can still drop into the dirt if I want to. Much more versatile for my needs. OH....and one great mod to my tractor sway bars is that I bought SS Pins from MacMaster Carr that have little ball detents in the pins. This way I can just pull them and insert with one hand in no time flat. Huge frustration saver and cheap solution.
Also replaced the junk affair that GP furnishes with the drill for the drag link connections on the drill. I had lost these pins on several occasions and was lucky I did not tweak the drill. Who would put hairpins on the "inside" of the pin locations where they are bound to come out. May better show that mod one day.....as it is one that really irks me. Had to do the same thing on my roller crimper. DUMB engineering.
Also FINALLY found the "real estate" to mount my seed rate manual on the side of the drill. That should be a handy spot for it.....tired of searching for it every time I need it. My foam marker pump and reservoir takes up the spot that GP used for that manual box.
Also show my (4) weights mounted on the sides of the drill with Z brackets I had made for my drill. I think those weights add 240 lbs to the drill. Add the extra step / walk board....and I think I am all done with mods for this year. Pics below.
The last pic shows the alternate hole location from the 3 point lift cylinders to the tractor drag links. My drill was hard to lift high enough to place it on the rolling cart I have. So by choosing these pin locations my drill can be lifted about 8" higher than the past.....and my drag links can still drop into the dirt if I want to. Much more versatile for my needs. OH....and one great mod to my tractor sway bars is that I bought SS Pins from MacMaster Carr that have little ball detents in the pins. This way I can just pull them and insert with one hand in no time flat. Huge frustration saver and cheap solution.
Also replaced the junk affair that GP furnishes with the drill for the drag link connections on the drill. I had lost these pins on several occasions and was lucky I did not tweak the drill. Who would put hairpins on the "inside" of the pin locations where they are bound to come out. May better show that mod one day.....as it is one that really irks me. Had to do the same thing on my roller crimper. DUMB engineering.
Bill
Administrator
I see I'm not the only one who refuses to crank the handle 995 times like the manual shows. Heck I learned simple math in the 4th grade.... 100 cranks X 10 is my go to also.
I like that walk board. I forgot you posted that before.
Foggy47
5 year old buck +
Took a pic of this SS Pin(s) I bought from McMaster/Carr. I use them in the Kubota sway bars to prevent excess movement. The Kubota sway bars are excellent....but it takes time and tools to adjust those sway bars with their hairpin system. For a few dollars.....these pins with the spring loaded ball detent is installed or removed in a second. Only a few bucks and worth the squeeze. I do not remember the size....but I think they are 3/8" diameter x ??" long. Measure. Never had one slip loose. Perfect.
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Foggy47
5 year old buck +
I’ve had to replace lots of hardware that uses OEM spring hairpin keepers. They seem to get snagged in brush and could be catastrophic if under load in some cases. These tractors do not have forestry hardware. I’ve made a few other mods to prevent damage to hydraulics and such. Time well spent.
Edit: What some old retired guys do. Grin.
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Foggy47
5 year old buck +
So....I could not figure out how to post a video here....but I did post an interesting video on the Switchgrass for Habitat page on Facebook. Lots of discussion now taking place.
What I did was attach my cell phone (neat magnetic mount) to the walk board on my drill....and show the drill dropping seeds into the seed trench and the packing wheel running over it. No it's not super quality (like SD may do) but it does make some points worthy of discussion.
If your on Facebook or the Switchgrass page....have a look. Time well spent.
What I did was attach my cell phone (neat magnetic mount) to the walk board on my drill....and show the drill dropping seeds into the seed trench and the packing wheel running over it. No it's not super quality (like SD may do) but it does make some points worthy of discussion.
If your on Facebook or the Switchgrass page....have a look. Time well spent.
Foggy47
5 year old buck +
???? I do not think anyone has talked about corn on this thread for some time. Are you on a different page? grin.
Sorry I was referring to Bill’s post back in May. He may have posted the results on another thread.
Foggy47
5 year old buck +
Spent an hour or so in my plots today....looking for signs of switchgrass germination. I did find ONE small finger of switch that had the seed attached to it. Had it in my palm to take a pic....and figured I would blow the sand off it......and when I did the blade blew away - never to be found. LOL.
What made me look was seeing a few blades germinated in my home containers that I planted in order to ID the germinating switch. More patience is needed. The rains have been good....but the temps are a bit cool for good germination....I expect.
It's like looking for a needle in a haystack.
What made me look was seeing a few blades germinated in my home containers that I planted in order to ID the germinating switch. More patience is needed. The rains have been good....but the temps are a bit cool for good germination....I expect.
It's like looking for a needle in a haystack.