Cuddeback's Cuddelink

[12point]

Volkman can you tell us the different battery levels that will be displayed on the status of the cuddelink cameras.
As the batteries get weaker.

 

[12pointer]

This is the status from J series IR this camera has took the most pictures of the one i've got out. As I said when I put the cameras out I used alkaline batteries too see how the camera work. I have not did a battery load test. All the cameras indicate OK on battery level I do not know what other readings they will say. Thats 42 days in field.
These cameras are in southern Tn that will help battery life, not as cold here as up north.

I am like you pointer I don't know the need for the powerhouse IR, distance maybe better. Now the powerhouse black flash does interest me.
View attachment 17111

That's great!! I'm curious what the load test would show! Maybe I wasted an extra 500 dollars worrying about battery life. :-)

I see your RF level is 16....how far away is the camera from the home unit?

 

[FredG]

Volkman can you tell us the different battery levels that will be displayed on the status of the cuddelink cameras.
As the batteries get weaker.

I'm obviously not John, but IMO the best way to keep tabs on your battery status is as follows:

Open File Explorer and navigate to a directory containing recently downloaded picture files.
Select the View tab in File Explorer and turn ON the Details Panel.
Highlight a pictures's thumbnail and then select the Comments field in the Details Panel.

A long text string will be displayed and highlighted and will look similar to this:

MR=C.1,AD=12/26/2017,LD=49,BT=16,RD=1,LH=1,LI=2031,BL=5616,BP=90%,BS=Int,BD=44,BI=6029,CF=Disabled,IR=100%MAX,WL=850nm,EX=Wide,SM=ADV,DD=FAP,DI=1,DV=OFF,DL=OFF,ND=FAP,NI=5,NV=OFF,NL=OFF

This gives a world of information (if you can decipher the codes) about the status of your camera at the time each and every picture was taken. The operative things that you're looking for to keep tabs on your battery status are:

BT=16 (Battery Terminations) The number of times the batteries have been pulled (lifetime)
BL=5616 (Battery Level in milivolts... in this case 5.616 volts) The actual battery voltage at that point in time
BP=90% (Battery Power remaining in %) Not as granular as the voltage above... 99%, 90%, 75%, 50%, etc
BS=Int (Battery Source... Internal or External) If you're running a Cuddepower this will tell you when it switches from External to Internal batteries
BD=44 (Battery Days) The number of days the batteries have been in the camera
BI=6029 (Battery Images) This is the handicapped number of images taken on the batteries with day pic=1 and flash pic=5
IR=100%Max For non-capacitor driven flashes like the dual flash on G models and red or black IR on J models this shows the percentage of power output to the IR array. For the powerhouse flashes this value will not show up because they are driven by capacitors and are always firing at 100% regardless of battery level. When the non-capacitor flashes are being driven with significantly reduced power your camera will automatically adjust either the shutter speed or ISO to compensate for the browning out of your flash. This is when your picture quality will begin to deteriorate. The avoidance of this deterioration is what John was referencing when he spoke of the "other" advantage of the powerhouse flashes.

So when you start seeing that IR% fall quite a bit you may want to change batteries. This also points to the reason that lithium batteries are far better in the J model. The lithiums hold a much higher voltage for much longer than alkalines and help avoid the brown out of you flash.

As to your actual question, if my memory serves, you go from Full to Good to OK to Low and finally to BLOW (change yesterday!). These don't tell you the precise data like the method above.

I might add this... When you check your battery status as above, don't be alarmed by temporary draw downs of the voltage when the camera is under periods of rapid picture count stress. The batteries will likely rebound back up when the dang 'coons get full and the batteries get a little rest.

 

[12point]

That's great!! I'm curious what the load test would show! Maybe I wasted an extra 500 dollars worrying about battery life. :-)

I see your RF level is 16....how far away is the camera from the home unit?

Distance to that camera is 3/4 mile and its around a side hill with timber. It has showed RF level as low 8 and still sending pics. I don't think you have wasted money. I watched some youtube video of cuddeback at this years ATF show. It looked like they had J series that would take D batteries, I'm not sure. When cold weather hits you'll probably like the extra battery life.

 

[12point]

I'm obviously not John, but IMO the best way to keep tabs on your battery status is as follows:

Open File Explorer and navigate to a directory containing recently downloaded picture files.
Select the View tab in File Explorer and turn ON the Details Panel.
Highlight a pictures's thumbnail and then select the Comments field in the Details Panel.

A long text string will be displayed and highlighted and will look similar to this:

MR=C.1,AD=12/26/2017,LD=49,BT=16,RD=1,LH=1,LI=2031,BL=5616,BP=90%,BS=Int,BD=44,BI=6029,CF=Disabled,IR=100%MAX,WL=850nm,EX=Wide,SM=ADV,DD=FAP,DI=1,DV=OFF,DL=OFF,ND=FAP,NI=5,NV=OFF,NL=OFF

This gives a world of information (if you can decipher the codes) about the status of your camera at the time each and every picture was taken. The operative things that you're looking for to keep tabs on your battery status are:

BT=16 (Battery Terminations) The number of times the batteries have been pulled (lifetime)
BL=5616 (Battery Level in milivolts... in this case 5.616 volts) The actual battery voltage at that point in time
BP=90% (Battery Power remaining in %) Not as granular as the voltage above... 99%, 90%, 75%, 50%, etc
BS=Int (Battery Source... Internal or External) If you're running a Cuddepower this will tell you when it switches from External to Internal batteries
BD=44 (Battery Days) The number of days the batteries have been in the camera
BI=6029 (Battery Images) This is the handicapped number of images taken on the batteries with day pic=1 and flash pic=5
IR=100%Max For non-capacitor driven flashes like the dual flash on G models and red or black IR on J models this shows the percentage of power output to the IR array. For the powerhouse flashes this value will not show up because they are driven by capacitors and are always firing at 100% regardless of battery level. When the non-capacitor flashes are being driven with significantly reduced power your camera will automatically adjust either the shutter speed or ISO to compensate for the browning out of your flash. This is when your picture quality will begin to deteriorate. The avoidance of this deterioration is what John was referencing when he spoke of the "other" advantage of the powerhouse flashes.

So when you start seeing that IR% fall quite a bit you may want to change batteries. This also points to the reason that lithium batteries are far better in the J model. The lithiums hold a much higher voltage for much longer than alkalines and help avoid the brown out of you flash.

As to your actual question, if my memory serves, you go from Full to Good to OK to Low and finally to BLOW (change yesterday!). These don't tell you the precise data like the method above.

I might add this... When you check your battery status as above, don't be alarmed by temporary draw downs of the voltage when the camera is under periods of rapid picture count stress. The batteries will likely rebound back up when the dang 'coons get full and the batteries get a little rest.

Man you know more about these things than I ever will. Looks like i'm going to have to read the directions! I haven't did half the stuff

 

[12point]

I'm obviously not John, but IMO the best way to keep tabs on your battery status is as follows:

Open File Explorer and navigate to a directory containing recently downloaded picture files.
Select the View tab in File Explorer and turn ON the Details Panel.
Highlight a pictures's thumbnail and then select the Comments field in the Details Panel.

A long text string will be displayed and highlighted and will look similar to this:

MR=C.1,AD=12/26/2017,LD=49,BT=16,RD=1,LH=1,LI=2031,BL=5616,BP=90%,BS=Int,BD=44,BI=6029,CF=Disabled,IR=100%MAX,WL=850nm,EX=Wide,SM=ADV,DD=FAP,DI=1,DV=OFF,DL=OFF,ND=FAP,NI=5,NV=OFF,NL=OFF

This gives a world of information (if you can decipher the codes) about the status of your camera at the time each and every picture was taken. The operative things that you're looking for to keep tabs on your battery status are:

BT=16 (Battery Terminations) The number of times the batteries have been pulled (lifetime)
BL=5616 (Battery Level in milivolts... in this case 5.616 volts) The actual battery voltage at that point in time
BP=90% (Battery Power remaining in %) Not as granular as the voltage above... 99%, 90%, 75%, 50%, etc
BS=Int (Battery Source... Internal or External) If you're running a Cuddepower this will tell you when it switches from External to Internal batteries
BD=44 (Battery Days) The number of days the batteries have been in the camera
BI=6029 (Battery Images) This is the handicapped number of images taken on the batteries with day pic=1 and flash pic=5
IR=100%Max For non-capacitor driven flashes like the dual flash on G models and red or black IR on J models this shows the percentage of power output to the IR array. For the powerhouse flashes this value will not show up because they are driven by capacitors and are always firing at 100% regardless of battery level. When the non-capacitor flashes are being driven with significantly reduced power your camera will automatically adjust either the shutter speed or ISO to compensate for the browning out of your flash. This is when your picture quality will begin to deteriorate. The avoidance of this deterioration is what John was referencing when he spoke of the "other" advantage of the powerhouse flashes.

So when you start seeing that IR% fall quite a bit you may want to change batteries. This also points to the reason that lithium batteries are far better in the J model. The lithiums hold a much higher voltage for much longer than alkalines and help avoid the brown out of you flash.

As to your actual question, if my memory serves, you go from Full to Good to OK to Low and finally to BLOW (change yesterday!). These don't tell you the precise data like the method above.

I might add this... When you check your battery status as above, don't be alarmed by temporary draw downs of the voltage when the camera is under periods of rapid picture count stress. The batteries will likely rebound back up when the dang 'coons get full and the batteries get a little rest.

I believe the battery level has said OK ever sense I put the batteries in new. I'll try to pull up the information as you showed. Thanks

 

[12pointer]

I believe the battery level has said OK ever sense I put the batteries in new. I'll try to pull up the information as you showed. Thanks

I believe that the battery level will display either OK, LOW, or DEAD.

 

[12point]

I believe that the battery level will display either OK, LOW, or DEAD.

You're right about battery level display. Custom1Enterprises phone number 1-810-683-4326 said they would have safety boxes for the J series in 10 day or so. That will make me feel better to buy some more J's.

 

[john volkman]

whoever it was from the forum that called Cuddeback today to question if I actually work for the company, you gave the crew a good laugh! I cant imagine someone wanting to impersonate a factory rep but you never know!

 

[12pointer]

whoever it was from the forum that called Cuddeback today to question if I actually work for the company, you gave the crew a good laugh! I cant imagine someone wanting to impersonate a factory rep but you never know!

I don't really care if your a factory rep or not....you information has been invaluable to me!

Do they make lock boxes for the dual flash cameras? It's starting to get pretty expensive now.....dual flash cameras, battery booster packs, powerhouse flash modules, lock boxes and genius tilt mounts....my wife is going to kill me :-)

 

[john volkman]

I don't really care if your a factory rep or not....you information has been invaluable to me!

Do they make lock boxes for the dual flash cameras? It's starting to get pretty expensive now.....dual flash cameras, battery booster packs, powerhouse flash modules, lock boxes and genius tilt mounts....my wife is going to kill me :-)

there will be safes for both the J cameras and the G cameras(dual flash) both should arrive before summer.

 

[12pointer]

there will be safes for both the J cameras and the G cameras(dual flash) both should arrive before summer.

John,
Is there any intention in future firmware updates for a “UserSelected” image transfer size from remote cameras? What I mean is being able toselect to send the full size image back to the home camera instead of thecompressed image. For someone like myself, that will either have a solar panelor battery booster pack in place, and 100’s not 1000’s images a week, so powerconsumption will not be a concern, it would be nice to have this option!

 

[john volkman]

John,
Is there any intention in future firmware updates for a “UserSelected” image transfer size from remote cameras? What I mean is being able toselect to send the full size image back to the home camera instead of thecompressed image. For someone like myself, that will either have a solar panelor battery booster pack in place, and 100’s not 1000’s images a week, so powerconsumption will not be a concern, it would be nice to have this option!

at this time there isnt a plan to do this. You will be able to send hi rez images if you use a cuddeback cell camera as a stand alone camera but not when using it or any other cameras in a link system. Keep in mind the hi rez image is saved on the card of the remote camera so if its needed you can retrieve it at the camera.

 

[12point]

at this time there isnt a plan to do this. You will be able to send hi rez images if you use a cuddeback cell camera as a stand alone camera but not when using it or any other cameras in a link system. Keep in mind the hi rez image is saved on the card of the remote camera so if its needed you can retrieve it at the camera.

Do you know what the price would be for the safes?

 

[john volkman]

Do you know what the price would be for the safes?

SRP is normally in the $35 range

 

[12point]

SRP is normally in the $35 range

Thanks, summer can't get here soon enough. Home units, home plus, powerhouse models, safes it just gets better.

Thanks

 

[12pointer]

at this time there isnt a plan to do this. You will be able to send hi rez images if you use a cuddeback cell camera as a stand alone camera but not when using it or any other cameras in a link system. Keep in mind the hi rez image is saved on the card of the remote camera so if its needed you can retrieve it at the camera.

For the G model cameras and battery booster pack, do you recommend lithium or alkaline D sized batteries. What brand do you prefer?

 

[12pointer]

SRP is normally in the $35 range

any idea when the home unit will be ready? I already bought mine from Optics Planet and just wondering when I could expect to get it! Also, will this be able to be plugged into a wall outlet or batteries only?

 

[john volkman]

For the G model cameras and battery booster pack, do you recommend lithium or alkaline D sized batteries. What brand do you prefer?

d batteries are not available in lithium, you can either run the 6 d cell battery booster pack that is available now, or wait for the solar kit that will be available later this year, that kit will run on rechargeable aa's with a solar panel.

 

[john volkman]

any idea when the home unit will be ready? I already bought mine from Optics Planet and just wondering when I could expect to get it! Also, will this be able to be plugged into a wall outlet or batteries only?

on track for an estimated june delivery on this , not sure if we will have the wall plug ready for this year on the home plus.