how about this? cut out the bottom and sides of the bucket, leaving tabs on the side to strap it in the back (or screw to the tree). Now just need to pick up a flexible solar panel (and wrap it around the upper facing part of the bucket), see if it will give us some wattage as the sun traverses across the sky (yes, I know, we are moving and the sun is relatively stationary). I also went ahead and painted some camo (I just could not post a Home Depot orange bucket).
another view from the front. I might hang the battery box from the handle... have not gotten comfortable with the weight of the box hanging from the light duty handle just yet.
Hmm, looking at how to adjust angle for summer vs winter.
you are probably right on the handle. I am actually now having problems finding a reasonably priced solar panel (around 10 watts) that will flex / bend to about 6-inch radius (around the bucket). Note: IMO, I think 10 watt panel is still a little oversized and will not require adjusting the angle for summer and winter if you can get the slope pretty close to your latitude. I think if I can just get it pointing south and sloped at about 45 degrees, I should get some decent exposure. Note: my deployment location is at latitude of 43.33 degrees and 43 degrees is the optimal angle for solar panels at that latitude. What is your latitude?
36° down here in NC. Consider taking some of the bend/arch out of bucket. Unless it's along wide open field, trees will block 30° morning and evening.
ok. You should get optimal sun exposure if you put the PV (solar) panel facing due south angle at 36 degrees above horizontal. Sounds like you are trying to get the solar panel as small as possible with optimal sun exposure and have minimal trees, hence your desire to adjust the panel.
I keep shopping for panels and they get pricey quick. I have some old American Hunter feeder panels I bought on clearance years ago. I have an external 6v battery on my G-0 (non-camera) home unit, going up Friday and stick a tiny panel on it. Now, it's on a 12' pole, on top of a 16' tower stand, on top of a ridge. So as good as it gets for exposure. Got 75 days out of it with no panel. We'll see how it does with one.
Great exposure! Yes, I am seeing the same cost data for flexible panels. I am leaning toward rigid panels for the cost benefit ($30 to $50 price point and many have charge controllers), but struggling with how to hang a rigid panel in a tree. I sent a photo of a very complicated frame ($50 in nuts, bolts, framing) that I do not like. Exploring some ideas for the rigid panel options in my head and need to mock something up. I am heading up to the property next week and hope to get some real deployment data on the one 20 watt panel that I do have. I did test my 20Ah battery here at the house and it lost about 2.5% battery per week (at 40 to 70 degrees outside), so I do not think that battery will work (without solar back up) for extended periods (4 plus months) when temperatures are -10 to 40 degrees outside. Keep sending data / analysis as you collect it.
until I get the external battery and solar panel options sorted out, I need to replace my D-cell batteries (next week). Is the current Cuddeback recommendation Rayovac High Energy? Will regular alkaline Energizer or regular alkaline Duracell cause problems? I think I have Duracell in them right now, Energizer is on the shelves at the store. I understand that Lithium or rechargeable batteries are not good for the G's and J's. I have not seen the Rayovac High Energy batteries on the shelves yet.
rayovac is all i use, DO NOT Use energizer especially in a J series's , the energizers are sized funny and dont connect well in the J's.
I really appreciate the quick response. I think I found the at Walmart.
check ebay for a seller that sells them in bulk 105 pack, quite a big savings.
im sure those would be fine as well
Some good info these two charts , you my want to check it more often you could damage the battery if it goes less then 10.5 volts preferably 11.8 volts SLA batteries will start degrading and will start to not charge to 100% they will start to fall off 12.8 then to 12.6 and so on and maybe not even take a charge. You should use a adjustable discharge cut off switch . I had a 12Ah last about 30 day discharged to 11.8 volt on a J camera
I appreciate the two charts. I think you are right that I will most likely kill this battery - will need a solar panel to keep this one topped off or check its state of charge (and recharge) more often. Part of this experiment was to prove to myself that a straight up battery solution (short of a much larger $200 to $250 75Ah to 100 Ah battery) would not work as I am often away from the batteries for periods of up to six months. I do like your idea about using an adjustable discharge cut off switch - I had not heard of them and will look into that option. If you have any suggestions for particular cut off switch that you find easy to use in these types of remote 12V situations, I would appreciate it.
Go to Amazon type in ( 12v low voltage cut off switch) there are many to choose from as low as $10 . I think a solar charge controller will do the same thing so if you plan on putting solar on then save some money and check one of them out , you will see the cut off switch and or controller will discharge the battery also a little like the camera
