I've made my case the best I can. Make yours and maybe you'll teach me something.
Neahawg - Sure hope you got some fur that trip. :pI with you wbp, we hit 0 around here and that's cold, and if it ever get below zero it doesn't do it for very long. I wanna say two years ago I ran a trap line when it was 7 degrees and sleeting and that may have been the coldest ive ever been.
One thing I can share that may help some members in the north - Michigan State University has worked on a strain of Chinese Chestnut - called the Benton Harbor. I was able to get hooked up with a source in February and purchased one pound.
They are a large chestnuts. I have seedlings now from them. I was nice - I sent some chestnuts to two friends that in the cold northern climates. One has shown me photos of his seedlings. The other individual has indicated they make tough seedlings. I have a third person who post on here that I will share a very limited number of my seedlings.
Guys from Minnesota, Michigan and Wisconsin might want to check on Benton Harbor Chestnuts from Michigan State. I ain't outing my
source :cool: but I have just shared something worth knowing if you are interested in hitting the keyboard and search.
I would like to know I got some chestnuts trees established in the state of Minnesota but I feel that will be a tough go. Those winters are beyond my imagination.
I always like to learn things worth knowing - good to hear about Red Fern Farm. Right or wrong is always determined by trees in the field. I would say your experience your area is most valuable.Guys in cold areas who want to try chinese chestnuts would likely be wise to contact Red Fern Farm. They have by far the cold hardiest varieties I've found. There's usually a waiting list for the most hardy varieties. Personally, I don't think chestnuts of any type/variety are going to be winter hardy long term in central MN or northern WI but I suppose I may be wrong.
Still new to the habitat improvements, and continuing to soak it up. I see a ton of threads regarding chestnut plantings, on this forum and other forums. Does anyone have some literature/links to threads as to why they are such a popular item for QDM? Are they aggressive growers and quick producers? Are you planting them one by one in strategic locations to promote deer traffic or are you planting them in groves for more Human Consumption?
I got on the internet and watched an outstanding video on YouTube with the man from Red Fern Farm doing a majority of the speaking.Guys in cold areas who want to try chinese chestnuts would likely be wise to contact Red Fern Farm. They have by far the cold hardiest varieties I've found. There's usually a waiting list for the most hardy varieties. Personally, I don't think chestnuts of any type/variety are going to be winter hardy long term in central MN or northern WI but I suppose I may be wrong.
I plant them both for myself and wildlife. I love to eat them, and deer will clean up all of them that I don't eat myself. I have some trees planted where I never walk to except in the spring when doing maintenance, so the deer and other wildlife get all those nuts.
In my area they are fast growers and fast producers. I plant mostly Chinese but do have just a few Dunstans. I now have a few 12 - 13 year old trees, and they are heavy producers. Most started producing a few nuts by year 3 or 4.
You should plant at least two and preferably more fairly close together to assure good pollination.
There is nothing magic about chestnuts, but they are one of my favorite species. They are just one piece (a very desirable piece) of my overall mast growing strategy.
Those are my thoughts. I'm in Zone 6B and not on dope or any mind altering infulence.
Native have you noticed a preference between pears or chestnuts??? I have a small woodland clearing that I want to plant a few mast producing trees and on the fence between the two.
Jordan, if you have the room, I recommend planting both pears and chestnuts. I see both cleaned up, so it's really hard to say which is most preferred. Having both gives some variety and protection against years when one of them may have an off year in terms of production. Even though both species seem to bear pretty well most years, an unusual late freeze or something like that could affect one and not the other.
The only advantage to pears I see is that Japanese Beetles will not touch the leaves. They (and other insects) can be pretty hard on chestnuts at times. This year is a bad one for Japs in my area and chestnuts are being hit hard, but despite that, I am seeing signs of a pretty good crop.
This is also an advantage of pears over apples. Plus, the no spray pears I grow are so flawless looking they could be sold in a supermarket. Even the best of my no spray apples will have at least a few flaws.
I would not rule out persimmons either. Even though I have some large native trees, I have been planting persimmons to expand the drop times on my place. Most of our native trees are late droppers - starting in November and some hanging well into January. I now have some trees coming into production that are earlier droppers. Persimmons are also tough trees that don't seem to be affected by much of anything. That is a big plus if something happens in your life where you can't give a lot of attention to your planting (sickness in family, etc.) for a long time and can't spend the time you would like. Those persimmons are survivors. You can say the same for chestnuts and pears, but probably not to the same degree as persimmons.
Broom, I experimented with container grown trees last year and went 100% this year as far as chestnuts go.I'm planting at least a few of the trees I got from Wayne this spring in four different counties; 2 each in Michigan and Indiana. I am not planting any on the property in Zone 4a...I'm not that naive. The others are going in 5b, 6a, 6a and on the line of 6b, in southern Indiana.
To test the theory that containerized trees can be planted at any time of year, I planted 2 trees last weekend, on a day with a high around 90. I've kept them watered and they're showing no signs of distress after 5 days in the ground. I'll plant one or two more on my property to help ensure good pollination.