3pt disc

PrairieShadow

5 year old buck +
I’m mostly no-till now but there are still instances such as right now that I need to do tillage if I’m going to be putting seed in the ground strictly from a drying point.

What’s the heaviest 7’ish 3pt disc on the market?
 
You want a good box frame disc.

Here is one from my local dealer.. We have the 6' version. Very stout.


Titan also makes one about 92" wide that's over 1,000 lbs

 
I use a similar model. A couple of my plots are a little on the rocky side, with some stones being softball size and up.

I find that the rocks have bent several of the “teeth” portion of the disc blade. If I were buying new, I wold consider going with the version that has blades that are not scalloped.
Rusty
 
I think having scalloped blades on the front gangs and smooth on the back is a decent compromise.

My old allis chalmers disc had smooth discs all around and was designed back in the day to be used after plowing. Took a lot of passes to work on sod not worked by something else first.

I have lots of rocks too and needing to replace some of the beat up blades decided to put new scalloped on front and best of remaining smooth on the back. Better performance now vs before.
 
I've got a 6' box frame disk by King Kutter. Got a great price on it about 12 years back. I broke a few blades over time via big unseen rocks. I will not use it much in the time to come....and I doubt I will ever wear it out......espeically now going to no-till. My front and rear are scalloped blades. I do think I would buy smooth rears if having a choice.....but mine is fine.....and I always dragged or harrowed after disking.
 
I would look for one that adjusts the angle, or possibly a more mild one.

If you're discing in wet stuff, a light one might be better than a heavy one, or a set of transport wheels you can flip down. A disc scraper would be a nice plus to the discs. I've seen folks drop a chain between the discs to break up mud clods.
 
I have a 7.5’ king cutter box frame with adjustable gangs that I think runs between 800-900lbs. It works good for me.

I’ll second the disc scrapers. My kk doesn’t have them. I had an old angle frame disc that did and in sure miss them.
 
IMO - If you need disc scrapers, its too wet to have the disc out..
 
I will admit, when I farmed, sometimes you just needed to play in the mud to get things done.
 
I have a 7.5’ king cutter box frame with adjustable gangs that I think runs between 800-900lbs. It works good for me.

I’ll second the disc scrapers. My kk doesn’t have them. I had an old angle frame disc that did and in sure miss them.
I only use tillage when I need to help things dry out to get them planted. Otherwise I no till.
 
I’m mostly no-till now but there are still instances such as right now that I need to do tillage if I’m going to be putting seed in the ground strictly from a drying point.

What’s the heaviest 7’ish 3pt disc on the market?

I'm still trying to understand the full question. No-till preserves moisture, so I think you are saying you need to disc to get the soil to dry out. Is that correct? I don't know about your soil, but that is the absolutely last thing I would do with my soil. I have clay and I would not want to put heavy equipment on it when it is wet. I definitely would not want to disc it when wet.

What am I missing?

Thanks,

Jack
 
I'm still trying to understand the full question. No-till preserves moisture, so I think you are saying you need to disc to get the soil to dry out. Is that correct? I don't know about your soil, but that is the absolutely last thing I would do with my soil. I have clay and I would not want to put heavy equipment on it when it is wet. I definitely would not want to disc it when wet.

What am I missing?

Thanks,

Jack
You're not missing anything Yoder. I would have yet to put a seed in the ground this year without some form of tillage being done. Soil compaction is real but sometimes the benefits outweigh the negatives. I don't make a habit of tillage when wet, In fact I'm set up to be 100% no till but mother nature had other plans this year.
 
You're not missing anything Yoder. I would have yet to put a seed in the ground this year without some form of tillage being done. Soil compaction is real but sometimes the benefits outweigh the negatives. I don't make a habit of tillage when wet, In fact I'm set up to be 100% no till but mother nature had other plans this year.

I'm trying to understand what benefit you are seeing from disking. From the original post I thought it had something to do with moisture. I'm still not understanding something. I have heavy clay soil. I've reclaimed highly compressed logging decks using a single shank ripper. Also, when converting to no-till I've had issues with the clay crusting that required min-till for a while. You specifically asked about a heavy disc also which doesn't jibe with min-till.

I do have a heavy disk I like from EverythingAttachments but we primarily use it for firebreaks. It is too heavy for min-till.

Can you clarify the benefit you see from disking?

THakns,

Jack
 
I very well may be oblivious but it seems he's saying it was too wet to seed so he used tillage to get the soil to dry faster and thus seed earlier. Growing seasons in the dakotas aren't long so on wet springs it can be struggle to get things planted in time.
 
@Wind Gypsy Yep. Common practice in commercial ag.. Tillage gets sunlight to soil. Cover crops hold moisture and shade.

You time tillage before the spring rains come. Not after.
 
I'm trying to understand what benefit you are seeing from disking. From the original post I thought it had something to do with moisture. I'm still not understanding something. I have heavy clay soil. I've reclaimed highly compressed logging decks using a single shank ripper. Also, when converting to no-till I've had issues with the clay crusting that required min-till for a while. You specifically asked about a heavy disc also which doesn't jibe with min-till.

I do have a heavy disk I like from EverythingAttachments but we primarily use it for firebreaks. It is too heavy for min-till.

Can you clarify the benefit you see from disking?

THakns,

Jack

There must be some benefit to disking. Almost all farmers around me do it.

It can be useful for preparing soil for seed bed, breaking up clumps, compaction that can inhibit water movement, aeration, breaking down weed growth, breaking up or cutting heavy thatch, moving OM into soil, etc.
 
@Wind Gypsy Yep. Common practice in commercial ag.. Tillage gets sunlight to soil. Cover crops hold moisture and shade.

You time tillage before the spring rains come. Not after.
Except for when the spring thaw and spring rains coincide like this year or the planting window is so small you cannot cover all acres. I use heavy tillage equipment for drying out soil setting it up to only run the first couple inches deep on the ag side when no till is not on option to get those acres put in.

The heavy 3 pt disk I was asking about was more along the lines of plots vs ag. I want the ability set it to run shallow via the 3pt for drying out plots but also the ability to break new ground (sod) if the need arises for new plots, hence the heavy part.
 
Except for when the spring thaw and spring rains coincide like this year or the planting window is so small you cannot cover all acres. I use heavy tillage equipment for drying out soil setting it up to only run the first couple inches deep on the ag side when no till is not on option to get those acres put in.

The heavy 3 pt disk I was asking about was more along the lines of plots vs ag. I want the ability set it to run shallow via the 3pt for drying out plots but also the ability to break new ground (sod) if the need arises for new plots, hence the heavy part.

I got it now. Thanks!
 
There must be some benefit to disking. Almost all farmers around me do it.
My farmer briefly lamented he lost his bean crop because he no-tilled last year. i did not fully hear/understand, but something about a worm that shows up in the corn residue???
 
Top