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Best clearing saw blade???

j-bird

Moderator
So I have been using the pi$$ out of my clearing saw the past 2 years (I mean literally acres of ground). They are wonderful tools for clearing briars, brambles, saplings and even small trees. I am looking at alternatives to the blades I use however. I have been using a "chisel point" wood cutting blade made by Stihl. They work great, but they are not cheap at $30/$35 each off the shelf retail. They claim they can be re-sharpened, and I need to try that, but I wanted to look at other blades for clearing sapling and small trees. I'm not looking at the 3 blade or square blades or what they call "scratcher" blades. I want to be taking down 3" trees! If any one has any experience with these or have had really good luck with others PLEASE let me know!!! I have seen those that are more like a circular saw blade, but I have yet to try those...

I have seen these different ones used on you-tube and the like and I will not be doing a "scientific" comparison....I just plan on seeing if the 2 new ones seem to work better or worse than what I am currently use....if for nothing more than a lower cost alternative.

What I use currently:
Stihl brand 200mm (7.9") 22 teeth p/n 4112 713 4203 - made in Germany I have seen these on-line for down to $25... weight of 358grams
stihl blade.jpg

Option #1 I am trying:
Forester brand 8" chisel tooth brush blade. 22 teeth - it was $13 on-line. P/N FORCT822 - made in China This appears to simply be a cheaper alternative to what I currently use. Weight of 325 grams
forester chisel blade.jpg

Option #2 I am trying:
Forster brand 9" chainsaw tooth blade - 20 teeth - it was $15 on-line. P/N CUT-9 - made in china. This is bigger and heavier 545 grams than the others so I am a little concerned about using it a lot and what it may do to my machine. With this having chainsaw teeth I can sharpen it just like I do my chainsaws.
forester chainsaw blade.jpg
 

BenAllgood

5 year old buck +
I'm looking forward to your findings. I just use a pole saw attachment right now. I like being able to clear from ground level up to about 15 feet. So, I don't know if I'd gain much.
 

3I0

Yearling... With promise
I use the Stihl chisel tooth blades exclusively, and they are what I saw used pretty much universally with piece work pre-commercial thinning. They are really easy to sharpen with a chainsaw file + guide, have to occasionally adjust the set of the teeth but I get a lot of life out of them (especially keeping them out of the rocks). I've run them pretty much until I am out of metal to sharpen before. If you hit a rock though you need to file all the affected teeth back past the part that is rounded off or they don't cut effectively.
 

j-bird

Moderator
So far the orange blade has done nicely. I used it for about 4 hours over the holiday weekend and it works just as good as the one I was using. I am curious as to how long it will continue to work well. It's easy to work well when new...but the duration of that function is also important.

I'm going to have to look into you-tube or the like to see how to sharpen these chisel tooth blades... I beat the others up so badly I am not sure they are salvageable.... but if touching them up will get me even more life out of them...then all the better.

I have not used the "chainsaw" blade yet....but we will.
 

4wanderingeyes

5 year old buck +
This guy compares lots of stuff.

 

Howboutthemdawgs

5 year old buck +
I have the forester, just used it for the first time the other day. It will take down a small tree no problem but I can’t seem to get it centered. It wobbles pretty badly. I’m not sure what to do differently but I’m gonna keep playing with it.
 

ProcraftMike

5 year old buck +
I have used and really like the blades with the chain around the outside, similar to the Forester. Some of the better ones actually have a chain that sits in a groove around the outside edge, vs. having teeth riveted on. To me, they do the best job when taking down saplings...if the teeth are sharp. Very easy to sharpen with a chainsaw file or similar.
 

j-bird

Moderator
I have the forester, just used it for the first time the other day. It will take down a small tree no problem but I can’t seem to get it centered. It wobbles pretty badly. I’m not sure what to do differently but I’m gonna keep playing with it.
Make sure you have the right hole size! Some are 1" and some are 25mm - which isn't the same. Some will also come with a little spacer and yes getting everything aligned is important otherwise it will shake you to death. I had that happen the first time I put a blade on it and I didn't pay attention to what I was doing....sort of like putting the chain of a chainsaw on backwards...yep done that too. Don't cut worth a damn that way either!!
 

j-bird

Moderator
It has gotten hot and sticky here so the clearing work has slowed. I have not tried the chainsaw tooth one yet...but I will. The thing I am running into now is that the weeds are just as much of an issue as the saplings. I want to get down as far as I can and it's just much easier to do when the other vegetation isn't in the way so you can see more of what you are doing. It's funny though as the deer are following my clearing efforts for the fresh weeds that grow in the new sunlight.
 

j-bird

Moderator
This guy compares lots of stuff.

I have seen that video and was one that sort of got me to buy a couple to see what works best for me. I have certainly learned that the right tool for the job can mean a world of difference. I cleared some ground with a chain saw and loopers and the like and it can be done, but it's just not as efficient. A $300-400 clearing saw with some of these blades makes this type of work SO much easier on both the equipment and your body.
 

Howboutthemdawgs

5 year old buck +
Make sure you have the right hole size! Some are 1" and some are 25mm - which isn't the same. Some will also come with a little spacer and yes getting everything aligned is important otherwise it will shake you to death. I had that happen the first time I put a blade on it and I didn't pay attention to what I was doing....sort of like putting the chain of a chainsaw on backwards...yep done that too. Don't cut worth a damn that way either!!
I think my problem is that spacer. I put it in twice but by the time I flipped everything around to tighten it had moved. Gonna have to tinker with it more
 
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