Your Best Apple!

Typical!:(

Very few of the great tasting apples are completely disease resistant in all areas. Dont let CAR turn you against an apple. That is where having a handful of dwarf trees shine in your backyard. You can spray them easily. CAR is probaby one of easier things to control in terms of fewer spray applications. CAR is typically only a concern in the mid spring through early summer. Even less problems in dry years.
 
TC, I have a couple of first leaf Goldrush that, though they thrived, looked awful with CAR this year.

I'm going to spend some time with a chainsaw this winter cutting out some cedar, but I suspect I won't be able to cut it all.

What do you recommend for spraying to keep the CAR in check?
 
You can control CAR with certain classes of fungicides. It seems the most effective and preferred choice for the small guy is Immunox. I believe it is sold to commercial guys undr the labels "Rally" and "Eagle". AS WITH ALL PESTICIDES AND FUNGICIDES READ THE LABEL AND APPLY ACCORDINGLY! Maybe Maya will chime in again with further options.
 
From the Penn State Tree Fruit Production Guide it says disease manage tn for CAR is EBCD's such as ferbam, ziram or manzate should be made at the pink bud stage of apples. Maya had me buy this book and it's awesome. You can also download the fruit management book from Rutgers free of charge. The Penn State guide costs about 45 bucks but is worth i. I also found another table that lists the following fungicides listed for CAR if it's historically a problem for you

Bayleton 50df
Indar
Inspire Super
Penncozeb 75 df
Rally 40 wsp
To name a few

Here is the link to the Rutgers University Commercial Fruit Production Guide
http://njaes.rutgers.edu/pubs/download-free.asp?strPubID=E002

As Maya told me most doesn't apply for what most guys do here but it is a great reference source for great info
 
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Aero I whole heartedly agree! I use the same references. Also have a couple of other commercial growers besides Maya that are very helpful resources. Thats where the Immunox referral came from. You can purchase the Immunox under the Spectracide label at the bigger box stores. Many times the Penn State guide gives us products that are sold more on the commercial side and may require a pesticide applicators license.
 
Oh boy, this is a handful! Everyone's situation is different. By that I mean, varieties are effected differently, as stated environmental factors such as rain effects trees differently from year to year, and site factors such as where hosts may be in relation to the trees that are effected by CAR will all be big variables. Also, what is your tolerance for it? Are these for deer or for your use? Is CAR effecting your trees so bad that you are getting poor fruit, no fruit, or just some leaf spotting?

If, and that is a big if, you need to spray, EBDC fungicides as mentioned above,( I'd recommend Vintage, Baylethon or Procure) are the most effective class of fungicides for CAR. They need to be applied at pink and 7-10 day intervals through 2nd cover. Strobilurin fungicides (Sovran, Flint) provide moderate protection. However, though I do have varieties such as Gala, Fuji, Idared, etc. that are susceptible, I do not have many hosts near by and I can get away with using Sovran which is part of my normal spray program. On a wet year I will throw down some Vintage or Procure which have good kickback coverage along w/ good protection.

My best advise is to figure out how bad it is in your orchard(s), decide what your tolerance is, work on environmental factors, such as cutting out Red ceder, and then if needed spray. Of course the first step would have been to plant disease resistant varieties in the first place, which I would love to see discussed more rather than talking about the umteen million varieties we have planted. For deer/ habitat managers your first choice for trees should be the many great disease resistant trees available today imo.

If you are going to spray you also may need a pesticide license to even purchase some of these fungicides in your state.
 
Maya I added the Sovran into the mix last year as you recommended and it seems to be working well. I also am aware that it can have immunity developed to it as well so I only use a few times per year instead of my Captan
 
That's the best advice for the vast majority of people who are growing apples for deer IMHO...probably the best advice for most people who are growing a few apples for their own consumption as well.
There are some great DR trees out there for both, I agree. Pristine, Liberty and Galarina are so easy to grow and so good to eat, imo. For those w/ CAR, the trees that are DR to CAR are fewer though.
 
My best advise is to figure out how bad it is in your orchard(s), decide what your tolerance is, work on environmental factors, such as cutting out Red ceder, and then if needed spray. Of course the first step would have been to plant disease resistant varieties in the first place, which I would love to see discussed more rather than talking about the umteen million varieties we have planted. For deer/ habitat managers your first choice for trees should be the many great disease resistant trees available today imo.

That is very sound advice. When I first started planting apples, I made the mistake of getting some varieties that have been nothing but heartache. Luckily it was only a few trees, and I quickly changed course with later plantings. For me to plant an apple tree now, it has to be almost bullet proof in this area. That narrows the choices down a lot for me.
 
Maya I added the Sovran into the mix last year as you recommended and it seems to be working well. I also am aware that it can have immunity developed to it as well so I only use a few times per year instead of my Captan
. Great, another one for you to put in the mix for those rainy years is Topsin M. Good on scab and Sooty blotch/ FS, and good kickback. It is another one that needs to be limited to 3-4 sprays, so it's a good one to have on hand when you are using Sovran. Glad to hear you are getting good results. I'll have to pick your brain when I do get a cider press!
 
That is very sound advice. When I first started planting apples, I made the mistake of getting some varieties that have been nothing but heartache. Luckily it was only a few trees, and I quickly changed course with later plantings. For me to plant an apple tree now, it has to be almost bullet proof in this area. That narrows the choices down a lot for me.
That's partly what I am saying in regards to your tolerance. To some it's a heartache to spray, others, maybe not so much. You need to figure out how much you can or willing to put into it. There are some great trees for those that do not want, or do not have the time to put into your trees. What will work in your area plays a big role too.

Native, what county are you in? I've been looking around for land down there possibly. Beautiful state!
 
That's partly what I am saying in regards to your tolerance. To some it's a heartache to spray, others, maybe not so much. You need to figure out how much you can or willing to put into it. There are some great trees for those that do not want, or do not have the time to put into your trees. What will work in your area plays a big role too.

Native, what county are you in? I've been looking around for land down there possibly. Beautiful state!

Maya, I live in Russell County and my farm is in Adair. My general area is not the best part of the state for deer hunting, but its home for me, and I can see a big difference in hunting with the habitat improvements we have done in recent years. Let me know if you need any information on realtors in this area, and I would be glad to help.
 
I spoke to one of the Penn State fruit tree professors ( books published ) who told me if you don't have any red cedars near your apple trees, you probably won't have CAR probs. Northern white cedar ( arborvitae ) is NOT a true cedar. Red cedar and junipers are the culprits. They are the alternate hosts for the CAR fungus to spread and flourish. My neighbor to the up-wind side have junipers planted...... and I have CAR on my crabapple tree, but it hasn't harmed the crabapple production. Only leaf spots.
 
Maya, I live in Russell County and my farm is in Adair. My general area is not the best part of the state for deer hunting, but its home for me, and I can see a big difference in hunting with the habitat improvements we have done in recent years. Let me know if you need any information on realtors in this area, and I would be glad to help.
Thanks Native!
 
I spoke to one of the Penn State fruit tree professors ( books published ) who told me if you don't have any red cedars near your apple trees, you probably won't have CAR probs. Northern white cedar ( arborvitae ) is NOT a true cedar. Red cedar and junipers are the culprits. They are the alternate hosts for the CAR fungus to spread and flourish. My neighbor to the up-wind side have junipers planted...... and I have CAR on my crabapple tree, but it hasn't harmed the crabapple production. Only leaf spots.

We have so many red cedars in this area that even if I cut all mine, there would still be hundreds nearby on neighboring properties. Since there are so many, I just try to get apple trees that are CAR resistant. I'm actually encouraging volunteer red cedars to grow in a few places because of the good cover and screening they provide. My southeast property line is screened by them.

It's good to hear that the spotting hasn't harmed your crabapple production. I hope mine does the same.
 
Yep - some areas are loaded with red cedar so there's no escaping them. The crab I spoke of is in my yard and is a Profusion crabapple. The deer apples and crabs are at my camp on a ridge top in a remote area where no red cedar grows naturally. I've never seen one ( cedar ) on any of the mountains for miles, so CAR isn't a problem up there. Fortunate in that regard.

Red cedars DO make a good screen and grow pretty quickly. Also good for bedding / thermal cover.
 
Pink lady, macintosh, red rome beauty, honeycrisp, jonagold.

That being said, these all refer to when the apple is "in season". A honeycrisp way out of season is terrible compared to almost anything that is at it's peak (exceptions are mushy apples like red or gold delicious. Icko. Those are always gross).
 
Just had a Ruby Frost apple. Wow! Wife brought them home and never heard of them so I did a search. It is a new apple from NY. The little info I found was late maturing and disease resistant. It is my new favorite apple. It doesn't look like you can buy the trees yet, at least I couldn't find anyone selling them. Super crisp with a sweet and tangy pop when you bite it. Anyone have info on this apple?
 
So someone like cummins can't sell them and charge you the royalty?
 
"Growers pay royalties on trees purchased, acreage planted and fruit produced, and the income is used to market the new varieties and support Cornell’s apple-breeding program." http://news.cornell.edu/stories/2013/08/snapdragon-and-rubyfrost-are-new-apple-varieties

While SnapDragon and RubyFrost are currently limited to growers in New York, future varieties from Cornell might be open to anyone. “We see open releases as being crucial to helping growers stay competitive with new offerings if they are not in a state with a breeding program, or if they don’t have access to other ‘managed’ varieties,” http://www.growingproduce.com/fruit...rost-and-snapdragon-getting-closer-to-market/
 
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