Poast Herbicide

[bigeight]

I am working with a field of pollinators that has many broadleaf plants that I want to protect as well as abot 10% WSG in the mix. The field has been taken over by cool season grasses.

I was wondering if I could use Poast herbicide that is a grass select herbicide that should kill the cool season grass and not affect the broadleaf plants I want to save. If I use this herbicide in May before the WSG's have woken up for the year, and the cool season grasses have already began its growing cycle, can this work? Or is there a residual affect that I am not aware of that will harm my WSG's that have yet to emerge for the year next spring.

Any tips or help would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks :)

 

[Bill]

your plan should work if you get it down before the NWSG germinates. Spraying that early may not get all the bad grass because some may not have germinated.

Check out Keystone pest solutions on line. Dakota or Clethodim act the same as Poast only thier $100 cheaper per 2.5 gallons. All three are post emergent so there won't be any residual effects.

 

[MoBuckChaser]

What broadleaf plants are you trying to protect? If they ain't on the label, you better be careful using Crop Oil, or Surfactant with cleth. I would do a small test area first. And if you are trying to kill fescue, good luck. You may be better off spraying 5 quarts per acre of Roundup to kill the fescue before the Switch comes up and replant the forbes if needed. Just my opinion.

 

[Bill]

Good point. I never use crop oil so I often forget about it.

 

[yoderjac]

I am working with a field of pollinators that has many broadleaf plants that I want to protect as well as abot 10% WSG in the mix. The field has been taken over by cool season grasses.

I was wondering if I could use Poast herbicide that is a grass select herbicide that should kill the cool season grass and not affect the broadleaf plants I want to save. If I use this herbicide in May before the WSG's have woken up for the year, and the cool season grasses have already began its growing cycle, can this work? Or is there a residual affect that I am not aware of that will harm my WSG's that have yet to emerge for the year next spring.

Any tips or help would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks :)

Poast is one option. Cleth is another. Again, I'd avoid the crop oil and use the labeled alternative. Compare the Poast and Cleth labels against the plants you are trying to protect and see which is advantageous. Both can be effective on grass.

Thanks,

Jack

 

[bigeight]

Thanks for all the advice and cheaper alternatives.

I am trying to protect some Big and little blue stem, Asters, Black eyed Susan, etc. stuff like that.

I believe I am dealing with some Fescue for sure, which I know can be super problematic to kill. I have little experience with Fescue and no experience with Poast, or Clerh :)

I hate to start totally over because there is a lot of the good stuff in there, but I think if I do nothing I am just a year or 2 from a total CSG field :(

 

[MoBuckChaser]

If you didn't take care of the fescue before you started to plant, you really haven't started in my opinion. The fescue will choke out a lot of what is there if you don't address it next spring. Burn the field next (early) spring and as soon as the fescue starts to green back up 1" or 2", spray with 5 quarts of Glyphosate per acre. The Clethodim does have some residual capabilities towards grass, I would not use it just to be safe. The switch will not have broken dormancy, they glyphosate will not be a factor if done in a timely fashion. Good Luck!

 

[bigeight]

It was burnt down with Gly 2x before planting. Hopefully the stuff that remains isn't too established and can still be wiped out with selective herbicides. Crossing my fingers :)

 

[yoderjac]

I think Mo was referring to a technique where you use a non-selective herbicide like gly in a selective fashion. I've done this effectively with bicolor. It greens up late. I would wait for the weeds to green up and spray gly before the bicolor greens up. Since the bicolor was not actively growing, it was unaffected by the gly. So, if the plants you want to keep green-up after the fescue, you may be able to use this technique.

Thanks,

Jack

 

[MoBuckChaser]

It was burnt down with Gly 2x before planting. Hopefully the stuff that remains isn't too established and can still be wiped out with selective herbicides. Crossing my fingers :)

Fescue is extremely difficult to kill. If you sprayed with anything less than a gallon per acre of glyphosate per application, prior to planting, it was probably not killed off. More than likely is still established. JMO, as I have been dealing with customers with fescue problems for years!

 

[Bill]

Don't want to thread Jack here but what does anyone recommend for common foxtail? I can nuke it with gly and it just keeps coming back. (This is in clover) though it has given me problems in the past in corn even using gly and atrazine Pre planting.

 

[yoderjac]

You can use a grass selective herbicide, but I personally like to use a high concentration of gly in a wicking bar. One problem with foxtail is that once it goes to seed and it gets in your seed bank any time you disrupt the soil you'll get germination. I like to wait until it is significantly taller than the clover but before it goes to seed. This allows me to wipe it good without getting gly on the clover.

Keep in mind, I use low growing clover like durana in my area. You may not have the height selectivity with tall clover.

Thanks,

Jack

 

[bigeight]

Is there a soil temperature chart anywhere online that gives temps that each broadleaf plant comes to life in the spring? That way I can compare it to when Fescue wakes up.

 

[yoderjac]

I don't know of any.