Apple Tree Opinions...Northern Indiana

[tynimiller]

On my new 22 acres purchased March of 2016 I want to begin incorporating fruit trees and have decided for starters going the apple route (may have a line on a couple Pear locally).

My question though is outside of 2 tiny sparse productive crabs no apple trees will be within 2-4 hundred yards of them....just various wild pears.

This year budget will most likely only allow 2 apple trees...maybe 3. Question is what variety have you guys had success with that are somewhat in similar hardiness zone?

I've researched almost too much on this, and have a short list but want real life examples of success or failures.

I don't HAVE to have them drop in November or even the season but early October to November drop times would be preferred.

 

[Neahawg]

I can't speak for your zone but if your just starting out I would stick to disease resistant apples as they are easier to manage. Examples are freedom, Enterprise, liberty, arkansas black, yates, Kinnairds Choice, and Sundance though they don't all drop Oct, nov.

Also keep in mind some apples such as Arkansas Black are triploids and produce sterile pollen so if you plant three trees you don't want two to be triploids, or you will end up with a tree that won't produce fruit.

 

[tynimiller]

I can't speak for your zone but if your just starting out I would stick to disease resistant apples as they are easier to manage. Examples are freedom, Enterprise, liberty, arkansas black, yates, Kinnairds Choice, and Sundance though they don't all drop Oct, nov.

Also keep in mind some apples such as Arkansas Black are triploids and produce sterile pollen so if you plant three trees you don't want two to be triploids, or you will end up with a tree that won't produce fruit.

Yeah had a buddy Arkansas Blacks are a favorite of his but definitely if I did 2 or 3 trees he recommended going all or none of them for now due to this. Thanks!

 

[yoderjac]

Yeah had a buddy Arkansas Blacks are a favorite of his but definitely if I did 2 or 3 trees he recommended going all or none of them for now due to this. Thanks!

I'm not sure I follow that logic. Going all AB would mean no fruit. All apples require pollination to produce fruit. Since most triploid apples don't produce much if any viable pollen, they should be planted with an apple that produces pollen for them. Typically crabapples are good pollinators for many apples, but when you decided on a variety, if you only have a few trees, you will want to look at a pollination chart to make sure your apples can pollinate each other.

Another alternative is to simply graft a branch or two of an appropriate crabapple to your trees. That one branch will provide enough pollination.

Thanks,

Jack

 

[tynimiller]

I'm not sure I follow that logic. Going all AB would mean no fruit. All apples require pollination to produce fruit. Since most triploid apples don't produce much if any viable pollen, they should be planted with an apple that produces pollen for them. Typically crabapples are good pollinators for many apples, but when you decided on a variety, if you only have a few trees, you will want to look at a pollination chart to make sure your apples can pollinate each other.

Another alternative is to simply graft a branch or two of an appropriate crabapple to your trees. That one branch will provide enough pollination.

Thanks,

Jack

He had to mean something else then. He made it seem like whichever type he had will produce but not pollinate others....He "inherited" his stand of a dozen apple trees though and I now question whether he has a clue what is what throughout it.

 

[tynimiller]

I'm not sure I follow that logic. Going all AB would mean no fruit. All apples require pollination to produce fruit. Since most triploid apples don't produce much if any viable pollen, they should be planted with an apple that produces pollen for them. Typically crabapples are good pollinators for many apples, but when you decided on a variety, if you only have a few trees, you will want to look at a pollination chart to make sure your apples can pollinate each other.

Another alternative is to simply graft a branch or two of an appropriate crabapple to your trees. That one branch will provide enough pollination.

Thanks,

Jack

Grafting is something I hope to get into...but not sure entirely I will delve into early on. Focus on getting a small patch maturing of half dozen to dozen trees then maybe no doubt be ready for next step which I sense will be grafting myself.

 

[Bowsnbucks]

tyni - Stick with " no/low " headache, disease-resistant trees. Neahawg listed some great ones: Liberty, Enterprise, Sundance, Yates. Don't overlook crabapples. Very tough trees that pollinate regular apples well. My first choice for longer-duration pollen would be Dolgo crab. If you plant 3 trees, you will not go wrong with Liberty, Enterprise, and Dolgo. I have all 3 and they are great !! All are edible and feed deer too.

DR trees are NOT insect resistant. You may need to spray for bugs for the first 5 years or so of growth, until big enough to withstand some bugs eating some of the leaves.

 

[H20fwler]

If you can only plant a few this year, I would go with Liberty/Enterprise/Arkansas Black and for pear Keiffer and Moonglow.

Then as you can afford add more of the same and look into adding other varieties and some good crabapples.
Biggest thing is to protect your investment after planting by caging the trees and screening the trunks.

 

[tynimiller]

tyni - Stick with " no/low " headache, disease-resistant trees. Neahawg listed some great ones: Liberty, Enterprise, Sundance, Yates. Don't overlook crabapples. Very tough trees that pollinate regular apples well. My first choice for longer-duration pollen would be Dolgo crab. If you plant 3 trees, you will not go wrong with Liberty, Enterprise, and Dolgo. I have all 3 and they are great !! All are edible and feed deer too.

DR trees are NOT insect resistant. You may need to spray for bugs for the first 5 years or so of growth, until big enough to withstand some bugs eating some of the leaves.

Yes, Dolgo I think might be one of the variety for sure...and sure where these will be I'll even be able to drive the truck too if extreme drought hits to water so care as far as spraying or more while a hastle is gonna be easier than some spots. Thanks!

 

[tynimiller]

If you can only plant a few this year, I would go with Liberty/Enterprise/Arkansas Black and for pear Keiffer and Moonglow.

Then as you can afford add more of the same and look into adding other varieties and some good crabapples.
Biggest thing is to protect your investment after planting by caging the trees and screening the trunks.

Have not researched Moonglow much...have to check them out!

 

[Neahawg]

Most all the ears from the wildlife group are good for blight resistance

 

[yoderjac]

Most all the ears from the wildlife group are good for blight resistance

That's why they ear so well. :D

 

[Neahawg]

That's why they hear so well. :D

Should have proof read, but thought I was safe with such a short sentence!

 

[yoderjac]

Grafting is something I hope to get into...but not sure entirely I will delve into early on. Focus on getting a small patch maturing of half dozen to dozen trees then maybe no doubt be ready for next step which I sense will be grafting myself.

Start wherever you're comfortable. Apples were low on my list because of the maintenance required and the volume I need for my application, but they are now on my plate. If I was looking for a small number of trees that I could easily handle the maintenance for, apples would be very high on my list. With small properties, traditional food plots or trees to feed deer and improve the herd simply doesn't have the necessary scale in most cases, however planting to attract deer to a specific location at a specific time of year can improve the chance of harvest.

I'm just starting to play with apples, so I'll let others provide specific advice on varieties. Best of luck!

Jack

 

[Bowsnbucks]

If you are mainly planting for deer, crabapples are hard to beat. They require less maintenance and generally are tougher trees. More cold hardy, usually very disease resistant, and most will bear fruit every year. ( Some regular apples have good crops every other year - biennial bearing habit ). The crabs we have at camp don't seem to get hit by bugs as hard as the regular apples do, if spraying is too much of a hassle for you. A couple widely available crabs to start with are : Dolgo and Chestnut crabs. I mentioned Dolgo a few posts back at post #7. Kerr is an apple/crab cross which is also a very good one, - all 3 are edible and mighty tasty !!

As H20fwler said at post #8 - protect your trees with cages from deer and aluminum window screen around the trunks to prevent mice / voles from eating the bark off in winter & killing your trees. Nothing worse than time, labor and $$$ lost to a critter & starting over.

 

[Seabee]

I planted Arkansas blacks and used a crab as a pollinator. Honestly, I have since started planting pears. So much less maintenance. What County are you in?

 

[tynimiller]

I planted Arkansas blacks and used a crab as a pollinator. Honestly, I have since started planting pears. So much less maintenance. What County are you in?

Seabee, I grew up around Bonneyville in Elkhart County, currently live in St. Joseph Co. but most work and hunting occurs back in Elkhart County. My property is there as well.

 

[tynimiller]

If you are mainly planting for deer, crabapples are hard to beat. They require less maintenance and generally are tougher trees. More cold hardy, usually very disease resistant, and most will bear fruit every year. ( Some regular apples have good crops every other year - biennial bearing habit ). The crabs we have at camp don't seem to get hit by bugs as hard as the regular apples do, if spraying is too much of a hassle for you. A couple widely available crabs to start with are : Dolgo and Chestnut crabs. I mentioned Dolgo a few posts back at post #7. Kerr is an apple/crab cross which is also a very good one, - all 3 are edible and mighty tasty !!

As H20fwler said at post #8 - protect your trees with cages from deer and aluminum window screen around the trunks to prevent mice / voles from eating the bark off in winter & killing your trees. Nothing worse than time, labor and $$$ lost to a critter & starting over.

Yeah, they'll get fenced off for sure and most likely some window screening as well. Spraying is not a huge deterrent given the location will be easy to access and get to that they'll be...of course not having to is a huge plus but I'll probably baby them for sure the first couple seasons and do all I can to ensure they thrive.

We've messed with apple trees before elsewhere but not enough canopy opened was always an issue...this spot these things will get sun from no later than 10am clear through sunset so GTG there.

 

[Bowsnbucks]

That sun sounds good for them. Good luck with the project, Tyni.