What is this called?

[Rit]

In this second picture the little part that is broke? The piece of metal that is bolted to the piece with holes? Or does anyone have a solution for something else? Ultimately I’d like to be able to pull this with my tractors or SxS with the same solution for both. I knew it was broke when I bought it but thought I could buy a replacement or modify it to connect it to a hitch or drawbar. The trouble is I have no clue what it’s called.

 

[Rit]

I plan to lower it and flip my hitch around to make it closer to level.

 

[DJN]

Clevis hitch?

 

[Tree Spud]

It's an adjustable clevis hitch.

https://www.etrailer.com/comparison.aspx?pc=CA-1&pc2=DM12676-95

 

[Rit]

Thanks Gents that what I needed.

 

[buckdeer1]

Nice cultipacker,I have never seen one for sale in Kansas

 

[yoderjac]

Could you weld it?

 

[Nightvision]

Could you weld it?

Jack,
I’m not a welder but it looks like it may be cast iron which a buddy (who’s a great welder) says can be welded but isn’t as easy as steel and has to be as clean as you can get it.

Imo, it looks like there’s way too much going on on that end and needs a more simple setup

 

[Rit]

Could you weld it?
I don’t own a welder but have access to one. But as Nightvision alludes to I am really looking for a much simpler set up. This current set up mostly sucks.

 

[Foggy47]

Your welder friend is right about welding cast Iron. I would not have this welded for this purpose. If you cannot purchase one reasonably......a good fab shop could make one from steel that would be up to the task. Show them these pics and measure the width and distance between the holes......and they could fix you up pretty quickly. Maybe your welder buddy??

Edit: It looks like somebody tried to weld it once already.

 

[Rubee]

How about removing the broken top half and just bolting up the bottom half. If that also breaks, maybe you could turn the hitch inset 90 degrees, scrap the clevis and bolt the hitch directly to the vertical holes.

 

[yoderjac]

Jack,
I’m not a welder but it looks like it may be cast iron which a buddy (who’s a great welder) says can be welded but isn’t as easy as steel and has to be as clean as you can get it.

Imo, it looks like there’s way too much going on on that end and needs a more simple setup

Yes, welding cast iron is above my pay grade, but I have seen information on how to do it. If you have someone experienced in welding, it might be an option.

 

[Tree Spud]

Could you weld it?
I don’t own a welder but have access to one. But as Nightvision alludes to I am really looking for a much simpler set up. This current set up mostly sucks.

I think you could simplify repair of this by removing the whole hitch assembly up to the cultipacker tongue. Then install a tractor draw bar. This would provide the structural support and allow you to add a variety of hitch connectors.

 

[ozarkpugs]

Simple cheap solution .Take the part that is broken off completely and also remove the arm (that seems to already be loose )that would keep the part the Clovis is fastened from rotating to off . Now turn the reviver 90 * in the hitch and run a bolt through Which ever hole makes it level . Use a lock nut or jam two nuts so it can move up and down and put oil or grease on the vertical pipe so it can rotate . It would be easier to lube if you squirt grease into the square and round hole all the time turning the fastener before you fasten it to the hitch .


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[Rit]

How about removing the broken top half and just bolting up the bottom half. If that also breaks, maybe you could turn the hitch inset 90 degrees, scrap the clevis and bolt the hitch directly to the vertical holes.

That is an option for sure. It’s broke on the other side as well but doesn’t show in the photo. I can actually pull it as is but not how long it will last.

 

[Rit]

I think you could simplify repair of this by removing the whole hitch assembly up to the cultipacker tongue. Then install a tractor draw bar. This would provide the structural support and allow you to add a variety of hitch connectors.

Welding the drawbar in place?

 

[Rit]

When I google adjustable Clevis hitch I get something that looks a little different. Like something that bolts in an area with multiple sides whereas this has a single holed piece in the center versus multiple

 

[Rit]

Simple cheap solution .Take the part that is broken off completely and also remove the arm (that seems to already be loose )that would keep the part the Clovis is fastened from rotating to off . Now turn the reviver 90 * in the hitch and run a bolt through Which ever hole makes it level . Use a lock nut or jam two nuts so it can move up and down and put oil or grease on the vertical pipe so it can rotate . It would be easier to lube if you squirt grease into the square and round hole all the time turning the fastener before you fasten it to the hitch .


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That’s certainly an option I had not thought of. I thought that arm was loose also but I think it may be by design. The piece that attaches to the pole actually spins freely. I noticed it takes tension off the vehicle and the cultipacker as you turn. You and TreesSpud may be on to something though by taking it apart completely and simplifying it. However I modify it I’d like to just drop a pin in and go.

 

[Rit]

I thought about taking everything off the cultipacker and using this hitch. I would have to modify it slightly but it might just work.

 

[Tree Spud]

Welding the drawbar in place?

No, you could bolt it in. The draw bar has multiple holes in it. There are already holes in the c-channel tongue based on you pic. You may have to add a hole or 2 to match the draw bar hole position.