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Useing tordon near fruit trees

Northbound

Northbound

5 year old buck +
So I use tordon often on box when cutting fence lines. I need to take out a few rows of hybrid poplar I planted before I knew better about 12 years ago. They are within 30 feet of some established sweet cherries and about 40 2 year old apple trees.

Just happened to see someone saying the tordon killed trees of a different type 30 feet from the stump they treated. I would imagine simular trees could share roots but different species seems odd to me... now I'm worried that I shouldn't use it but hate to have a million poplar shoots popping up in my orchard.
 
Triclopyr is known to not mobilize or be soil active. It would be my choice.


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I’m not sure how big your fruit trees are but if they are big enough to have any roots at all in the area where you will be using the tordon it will severely injure them. Tordon is also very water soluble and mobile in rain water runoff so that may be another potential route that could damage your fruit trees. A safer alternative would be to cut the poplar trees and treat the stumps with straight glyphosate. I would feel comfortable with that approach myself.


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MickT said:
Triclopyr is known to not mobilize or be soil active. It would be my choice.


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Click to expand...
Is there a brand this is marketed as?
 
DrDirtNap said:
I’m not sure how big your fruit trees are but if they are big enough to have any roots at all in the area where you will be using the tordon it will severely injure them. Tordon is also very water soluble and mobile in rain water runoff so that may be another potential route that could damage your fruit trees. A safer alternative would be to cut the poplar trees and treat the stumps with straight glyphosate. I would feel comfortable with that approach myself.


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So I've tried treating stumps of box with gly and it didn't work. Are you drilling holes and filing with gly or just coat stump like tordon use?
 
Northbound said:
DrDirtNap said:
I’m not sure how big your fruit trees are but if they are big enough to have any roots at all in the area where you will be using the tordon it will severely injure them. Tordon is also very water soluble and mobile in rain water runoff so that may be another potential route that could damage your fruit trees. A safer alternative would be to cut the poplar trees and treat the stumps with straight glyphosate. I would feel comfortable with that approach myself.


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Click to expand...
So I've tried treating stumps of box with gly and it didn't work. Are you drilling holes and filing with gly or just coat stump like tordon use?
Click to expand...

I’ve always treated the cut stumps with straight gly immediately after cutting. Either brush or pour it on. It has worked well for me on ash trees and does ok on small sweet gum trees.


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" I need to take out a few rows of hybrid poplar I planted before I knew better about 12 years ago"

Just curious, what do you know now, that u didn't know then that would change your mind about planting hybrid poplar?
 
trampledbyturtles said:
" I need to take out a few rows of hybrid poplar I planted before I knew better about 12 years ago"

Just curious, what do you know now, that u didn't know then that would change your mind about planting hybrid poplar?
Click to expand...
That they're a huge mess in fall. Very large leaves that choke out food plot. Granted I live on very high windy area , if they fell strait down wouldn't be terrible.
The screening effect was fast but short lived, lower branches self pruned themselves after about 8 years.
I was 22 at the time and just focused on fast growing, not quality. Wish I thought that through a little more.
 
Northbound said:
That they're a huge mess in fall. Very large leaves that choke out food plot. Granted I live on very high windy area , if they fell strait down wouldn't be terrible.
The screening effect was fast but short lived, lower branches self pruned themselves after about 8 years.
I was 22 at the time and just focused on fast growing, not quality. Wish I thought that through a little more.
Click to expand...

Since u have experience, how does this plan sound?

Was planning on planting a 150ft screen. On our east boundary, in a gap between our cedar break an slough edge.
No where near a food plot.
Planned on planting MG on east side of the poplars to catch first light an provided a dual approach.

Thought was to use the MG for 10ft visual barrier right at ground level or near the screen.
Second thought was to use the height advantage of the poplar to screen the 10-30ft height range,
because the area I want to hide, can be seen from the road a little ways to the south on a downward slope.

Then this spring or next year, plant a few hand plant ceders at 8ft spacing running the entire length to ensure long term viability.

Any experience with the hybrid willow?
 
trampledbyturtles said:
Since u have experience, how does this plan sound?

Was planning on planting a 150ft screen. On our east boundary, in a gap between our cedar break an slough edge.
No where near a food plot.
Planned on planting MG on east side of the poplars to catch first light an provided a dual approach.

Thought was to use the MG for 10ft visual barrier right at ground level or near the screen.
Second thought was to use the height advantage of the poplar to screen the 10-30ft height range,
because the area I want to hide, can be seen from the road a little ways to the south on a downward slope.

Then this spring or next year, plant a few hand plant ceders at 8ft spacing running the entire length to ensure long term viability.

Any experience with the hybrid willow?
Click to expand...
That's not a bad use of them. They do grow fast and upper always held branches for me. I've heard other guys say they start to die off in about 20 years. I had planted 3 rows 6' spacing. Keep in mind that MG will have a ton of leaves. I have no experience with MG so unsure if it matters. My big problem was the large leaves made a mat over my plot choking out anything besides corn.

Personally I'd consider a row of Norway spruce mixed between the poplar. Then as the poplar are dieing off you have a filler. Norway will grow in shade and not loose it's lower branches.

If you work land near the poplars you'll get suckered where your equipment scratches roots. You can stick cuttings in moist ground and they'll take root really easy. So if you need more you'll have a endless supply. I've never tried the hybrid willow.
 
I have a screening row of hybrid willow, along with some other rows, like it a lot. Grows fast, branches out nicely and hold leaves till late November/December. In NW Minnesota
 
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nitro27 said:
I have a screening row of hybrid willow, along with some other rows, like it a lot. Grows fast, branches out nicely and hold leaves till late November/December. In NW Minnesota
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Thz for the info Northbound.

Min/Max height the willow reaches?
 
From local SWCD - ph 5.5 - 8, very rapid growth, 50-70 feet, full sun to partial, soil-wide range $40.00 for bundle of 25 this spring.
 
nitro27 said:
From local SWCD - ph 5.5 - 8, very rapid growth, 50-70 feet, full sun to partial, soil-wide range $40.00 for bundle of 25 this spring.
Click to expand...

Wow, 50-70 feet, that is impressive. Not what I had anticipated.

Care to share anymore first hand experience, i.e. none self spreading I would assume.

How about, stem density, buck rub potential, and anything else u found interesting.

Still making the final decision to go with poplar or willow from big rock trees.

Thz for all the info fellas.
 
The Hybrid willow was planted 5 years ago, trunks are now about 5+ inches in dia. lower branches 2-3 in. in dia. and trees about 15+ feet tall (2-3 foot when planted a about 1/2 dia.) so far no problem with deer browsing. Very satisfied at how well they are branching out. (width)
 
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