Uncatagorized.....things we see....

[Foggy47]

View attachment 78892

Just bought a sickle bar cutter like shown in this pic.....and will mount it to a plate similar to the one shown in this pic. My loader is a little heavier duty than this.....and I already have the 3rd function hydraulic lines to the front of my tractor. This should work out pretty well for clearing lanes. Will post some pics of my mounting set up on the Deertopia page as this project materializes. Gonna take a week or so to receive this product. Hope it works ou

EDIT: Actually I changed my order from this brand to a different one. It may cost a bit more, but it appears to be worth it. I'm buying it with a QD plate to attach to my loader and the hoses to attach to my QD couplers. I've ordered the Agrisheild Pro Cut 54" Sickle Bar cutter. There is a good YouTube video on this unit......and I may paste it up here in the future. Bad news is there is an 8 week lead time on shipment. I hate waiting....but I think in this case it may be worth it.

 

[Ben.MN/WI]

Did your flail mower break or did you just decide this mower type would be better for your application?

 

[Foggy47]

Did your flail mower break or did you just decide this mower type would be better for your application?

This is only used to delimb my trails of overhanging branches.

 

[Foggy47]

Be super around ponds and ditches while bush hogging at the same time behind the tractor

Here is a video on a similar unit to what I am getting. I will have a 5' cutting blade(s). Mostly use for delimbing trails. Got some 8 weeks lead time....but it sounds good from the (well done) video review.

 

[Ben.MN/WI]

That's pretty cool - what's the maximum diameter of branch that can cut through?

 

[Foggy47]

That's pretty cool - what's the maximum diameter of branch that can cut through?

Depends on the variety of wood. I think 1.5" of pine and maybe 1" of oak. Also how many limbs at a time. I dont know any more than I have seen in video or their website. Think of using a hedge trimmer on steroids. This brand appears to have many bases covered. I'd rather have a lane shark....but those cost more and are heavier, etc. For my limited needs I think this may fill the bill.

 

[Foggy47]

Finished up the blind tower and staircase build today. Pretty humid working now....so I'm glad I'm done. I suppose I spent 12 hours total working with my helper the "Orange Crush" (my Kubota tractor), Pretty happy with the way the staircase and railing worked out.....and the treads are wide enough and the rise is small enough that you feel comfortable going forward down the steps. Glad I kept the rise to about 8.5". Now waiting for my RIT dye to come and turn that wood black. Also gotta put a gas tank in that crate at the top......and hook up heat.



EDIT: Now that I built these steps out of wood, I wish I would have bought those metal treads. It takes allot of wood and cutting and assembly time to build those steps.......and they are HEAVY. That treated wood from Menards is so freaking soaked and heavy. The good news is....when wet it does not spit too easy and it's still straight (unwarped). I gotta remove most of the treads as I think it could weigh 300 lbs as it stands.....and it's hard to handle.

 

[Kdog]

Looks great! Will you be removing the stairs when you move it to its final destination? I like that sickle bar for trimming trails.

 

[goatman]

Foggy we have some Banks and I'm impressed with them being pretty much bug proof. Make sure you latch all the closers on the windows as they will leak if not. We have different brands and I wish they all would do something different than put chipboard in for floors. Redneck stands alone. Like your build and enjoy your input.

 

[Foggy47]

Looks great! Will you be removing the stairs when you move it to its final destination? I like that sickle bar for trimming trails.

Yes. there is just one screw holding the stringers on. Same goes for the treads. I'll put the stringers on those lowest 2x4's and screw them down for the trip to the stand site.

Today I received my RIT Dye from Amazon. Three 8 oz bottles. I applied just a little straight out of the bottle (small spot on the left) and then diluted to one part dye and 2 parts water and rubbed the dye onto the boards with a shop towel. I had some pretty good clothes on.....and did not have a sponge or a brush. Gonna dilute the dye as said here and finish this up soon. Pic below of the dyed wood. (Cost is about $15 for the 3 bottles.....more than enough to do this blind and perhaps more?) .

 

[Foggy47]

Foggy we have some Banks and I'm impressed with them being pretty much bug proof. Make sure you latch all the closers on the windows as they will leak if not. We have different brands and I wish they all would do something different than put chipboard in for floors. Redneck stands alone. Like your build and enjoy your input.

Yeah....I agree with that chip board. I have seen some video where the stands were 5 years old and they had not leaked onto that chip board. I thought I may put some varnish or water seal on that board if time permits. Always so many things to do. I wish the manufacturers would do these things.....but everyone is faced with a price squeeze (I suppose).

 

[KY wild]

I have never seen or heard of RIT. Please explain the benefits and your past experience with the product. I am interested since I build a house or two a year. Thanks

 

[Foggy47]

I have never seen or heard of RIT. Please explain the benefits and your past experience with the product. I am interested since I build a house or two a year. Thanks

OK....since you ask....I have a long story.

Back in the 70's I sold lots of various products to the mobile home and RV manufacturers in the mid-west. We did allot of metal siding and roofing...but we had a large division that made specialty adhesives, paints, stains, glues, putty tape, buytel tapes and more. We always tried to get some additional biz with these products as we had really good stuff for that industry and we could compete quite well. Our product line had a pretty good history with the industry....and these products would get our foot in the door.....and would serve as a launch pad for more sales. I was the sales manager for our division.....and we gave away lots of samples.....which invariably got us some biz....as we had superior products at a decent price point.

Anyway....I had this one buyer at a large plant was buying most of our line of this stuff....but he scoffed at my wood dye...which we sold many other places. They had a large cabinet shop and made all their own kitchen cupboards and closet hardware and such.....so some of these places would use considerable material. I pressed him a bit to see what he was doing...and he told me to follow him to the paint shop...connected to the cabinet shop. They had a 55 gallon drum and it was filled with water and they used RIT dye in the barrel. I think they used "umber" and used "powdered" dye rather than liquid. (both are available). They would simply dip their pine boards in the dark brown dye and quickly wipe it off and it was dry in seconds. Blended perfectly for their needs and was CHEAP.

I always remembered this. And we used to sell white glue by the drum. Some companies wanted to buy brown glue so it did not show the drips and excess as much as white glue. We used to then add some Umber from a paint store....and simple blend it in with a 1/2 HP drill and stirring device. Kept our inventory low by keeping drums of white glue and mixing our own. I think we got paid substantially more for the brown glue....and it was an easy task to get 'er done.

Anyway.....I looked for a cheap paint or stain solution on line......and everything out there costs about $50 a gallon or more. So I remembered my old RIT dye experience from many years ago and thought I would give it s shot. Black is cheaper than Umber......and I'm tight. Grin.

Now you know the rest of the story. Foggy

EDIT: OH....and I forgot the most important part.....they said one or two packs of RIT dye (powder) would do a full 55 gallon drum of water....and only cost about $3 back then.

 

[KY wild]

OK....since you ask....I have a long story.

Back in the 70's I sold lots of various products to the mobile home and RV manufacturers in the mid-west. We did allot of metal siding and roofing...but we had a large division that made specialty adhesives, paints, stains, glues, putty tape, buytel tapes and more. We always tried to get some additional biz with these products as we had really good stuff for that industry and we could compete quite well. Our product line had a pretty good history with the industry....and these products would get our foot in the door.....and would serve as a laugh pad for more sales. I was the sales manager for our division.....and we gave away lots of samples.....which invariably got us some biz....as we had superior products at a decent price point.

Anyway....I had this one buyer at a large plant was buying most of our line of this stuff....but he scoffed at my wood dye...which we sold many other places. They had a large cabinet shop and made all their own kitchen cupboards and closet hardware and such.....so some of these places would use considerable material. I pressed him a bit to see what he was doing...and he told me to follow him to the paint shop...connected to the cabinet shop. They had a 55 gallon drum and it was filled with water and they used RIT dye in the barrel. I think they used "umber" and used "powdered" dye rather than liquid. (both are available). They would simply dip their pine boards in the dark brown dye and quickly wipe it off and it was dry in seconds. Blended perfectly for their needs and was CHEAP.

I always remembered this. And we used to sell white glue by the drum. Some companies wanted to buy brown glue so it did not show the drips and excess as much as white glue. We used to then add some Umber from a paint store....and simple blend it in with a 1/2 HP drill and stirring device. Kept our inventory low by keeping drums of white glue and mixing our own. I think we got paid substantially more for the brown glue....and it was an easy task to get 'er done.

Anyway.....I looked for a cheap paint or stain solution on line......and everything out there costs about $50 a gallon or more. So I remembered my old RIT dye experience from many years ago and thought I would give it s shot. Black is cheaper than Umber......and I'm tight. Grin.

Now you know the rest of the story. Foggy

EDIT: OH....and I forgot the most important part.....they said one or two packs of RIT dye (powder) would do a full 55 gallon drum of water....and only cost about $3 back then.

Thanks, I would think it would be a cheap way to protect treated wood from UV radiation

 

[Foggy47]

Thanks, I would think it would be a cheap way to protect treated wood from UV radiation

Yeah.....maybe. I wonder how long it will hold up in the sun and weather. In time it all turns brown and fit's into the landscape. Dunno.