Native Hunter
5 year old buck +
Some of my best forbs came out of the seedbank, but I would not have this tall grass cover without planting. For me, it's a combination of both. They key is to manage it for the species that are important to you.
Thanks for posting that link. I try to keep up with as much of Dr. Harper's stuff as possible, and missed that one. It's a really good video. I like his experiences on letting some blocks of early successional cover reach a mid succession stage in 5-10 acre "bedding blocks" and then keeping a firebreak around those blocks to set back succession with fire whereby keeping them in a bedding type cover. I'm not scared to omit I'm a Harper fanboy, but just because his work explains a lot of what I've seen growing up and watching cattle pasture to forest succession.As soon as I saw the title, it reminded me of this video with Craig Harper, then I read the abstract and realized this was the study he references in the video. He explains some of these practices in some decent detail in this video. It starts around the 1:10:00 mark talking about regeneration in retired ag fields and then around 1:35:00 he talks about returning cool season pasture grass to regenerative ways.
I've seen some of his stuff and always come away impressed. The only thing I ever second guess is the cover strategy where he applies and tests his stuff is a little different than where I manage property given the climate differences.Thanks for posting that link. I try to keep up with as much of Dr. Harper's stuff as possible, and missed that one. It's a really good video. I like his experiences on letting some blocks of early successional cover reach a mid succession stage in 5-10 acre "bedding blocks" and then keeping a firebreak around those blocks to set back succession with fire whereby keeping them in a bedding type cover. I'm not scared to omit I'm a Harper fanboy, but just because his work explains a lot of what I've seen growing up and watching cattle pasture to forest succession.
I also like his work because he actively does the work instead of just research and comes at it from a point of tailoring his work towards better hunting.
For sure. I studied wildlife management at LSU and worked at their deer research facility. I've managed a large acreage area in Louisiana for deer hunting. I now own about 50 acres in Kentucky. While I consider Kentucky still in the south or maybe southern midwest, I still have to drive 10.5 hours north to get there. But, I'm having to learn different deer nuances and their use of this different habitat. It's definitely not the same, although a lot of the same principles do apply. Like the cover aspect. In Louisiana, cover is not a limiting factor in a lot of cases. Let a field sit idle, and in a couple of years, deer will bed in it during the winter. In the north, that field will not hold a single deer in the winter for bedding. But, that's where the succession has to progress further to get the structure needed for bedding. It takes a lot longer in the north than it does in the south for natural succession to provide adequate winter cover. Or, plant bedding, and speed it up.I've seen some of his stuff and always come away impressed. The only thing I ever second guess is the cover strategy where he applies and tests his stuff is a little different than where I manage property given the climate differences.
It seems like most (if not all) of the best deer research comes from down south as far as the universities and their studies. A lot of the principles that are tried and true down south aren't exactly common place up here.
For sure. I studied wildlife management at LSU and worked at their deer research facility. I've managed a large acreage area in Louisiana for deer hunting. I now own about 50 acres in Kentucky. While I consider Kentucky still in the south or maybe southern midwest, I still have to drive 10.5 hours north to get there. But, I'm having to learn different deer nuances and their use of this different habitat. It's definitely not the same, although a lot of the same principles do apply. Like the cover aspect. In Louisiana, cover is not a limiting factor in a lot of cases. Let a field sit idle, and in a couple of years, deer will bed in it during the winter. In the north, that field will not hold a single deer in the winter for bedding. But, that's where the succession has to progress further to get the structure needed for bedding. It takes a lot longer in the north than it does in the south for natural succession to provide adequate winter cover. Or, plant bedding, and speed it up.
As for the research, I don't know why more of the northern research hasn't trickled out into the hunting community. Lots of telemetry studies have been done in the north. The research just has not been made available in a readily digestible form for people outside the scientific community to the same degree as it has in the south.
If you watch the videos I posted with Craig Harper, he says you'll get a better kill on the cool season grasses by mowing in late summer and terminating with gly around the first frost date. A day when the cool season grasses are actively growing (60°F) should do the trick in late October or so. He claims 99% kill success using this method. Adversely he claims only ~60% kill success on a spring spraying.On my property I have many acres that have been in cool season grasses for years, 30 maybe more. Before that it was alfalfa and pasture land. I hate the cool season grasses here. They are short and and other than providing some nesting cover it seems to do very little. I have burnt several times and it never comes back any different. Its in a CRP Program that wont allow me to to replant it in warm season grasses until the contract is up.... but I could get away with discing maybe....
So, how does my cool season grass dominated area apply to this? Or doesnt it? Is it possible I have a good "seed bank" beneath the surface that may flourish if i went through it with an aggressive disk? Should it be sprayed? Mowed? I curious as to what you guys commenting here think... as id have at least 15-20 acres that I feel id have nothing to loose on. Id like to try something to improve the property whether it was cover, food, grass, trees, pollinators, whatever. It would have to be better than plain, wide open 15" grass.
What suggestions do you guys have?
Thanks
On my property I have many acres that have been in cool season grasses for years, 30 maybe more. Before that it was alfalfa and pasture land. I hate the cool season grasses here. They are short and and other than providing some nesting cover it seems to do very little. I have burnt several times and it never comes back any different. Its in a CRP Program that wont allow me to to replant it in warm season grasses until the contract is up.... but I could get away with discing maybe....
So, how does my cool season grass dominated area apply to this? Or doesnt it? Is it possible I have a good "seed bank" beneath the surface that may flourish if i went through it with an aggressive disk? Should it be sprayed? Mowed? I curious as to what you guys commenting here think... as id have at least 15-20 acres that I feel id have nothing to loose on. Id like to try something to improve the property whether it was cover, food, grass, trees, pollinators, whatever. It would have to be better than plain, wide open 15" grass.
What suggestions do you guys have?
Thanks
Swiffy, my fields were nothing but cool season grass (Fescue). We did two gly kills and then drilled the seed shortly after the second kill. This was late spring or early summer. I have never had a problem with the Fescue coming back. I have certainly had a few things come out of the seed bank that I didn't like, but fescue wasn't one of them. I do see a little in the wintertime, but not enough to bother anything. However, without killing with fescue with gly, you will likely never get anything else to take over - at least not where I live.
Brian & Native,
I will watch Harpers videos when I get a chance. Native are you saying killing the fescue is sometimes enough, and the discing isnt even needed? Or kill it and then I could drill in some Switchgrass?
Thanks for the comments, Im going to try something!
Swiffy
Harper contends that killing the fescue should be enough to start the early successional clock moving forward. He tries to manipulate what's growing from that point forward by using spot spraying techniques as well as fire to set back undesirable species. Once you watch the videos, his techniques will be quite clear.Brian & Native,
I will watch Harpers videos when I get a chance. Native are you saying killing the fescue is sometimes enough, and the discing isnt even needed? Or kill it and then I could drill in some Switchgrass?
Thanks for the comments, Im going to try something!
Swiffy
Wow! Your deer must have a lot of great summer nutrition. Pokeweed is very nutritious and one of the preferred natives around here.Swiffy, in some instances just killing the fescue might be enough, but in other cases you would be better off drilling in some desirable species. It depends on your seedbank and what is available. Something will come up to replace the fescue, but you can't really tell ahead of time what it will be. Something else to consider - what you see come up the first year will mostly be annuals. You have to wait a couple of years to see what the perennials will be. A new prairie really changes for the first 3 to 5 years as perennials take up more space and push out annuals. Even if you drill switchgrass, you won't see a lot of it in the first couple of years.
For the first 3 or 4 years after I drilled my NWSGs, I spent a lot of time driving a pickup truck through my fields and doing spot spraying to knock back stuff out of the seedbank that I didn't want. A good example is ironweed. It can be an aggressive perennial that has low value for deer. I also sprayed pokeweed, because my deer won't eat it, and it takes up a lot of space. By doing this, I encouraged what I did want by removing what I didn't want. Now I have it the way I want it.
Disking sets back perennials and encourages annuals. If you disk a prairie, it will start looking more like it did in early establishment - with more annuals and fewer perennials.
One final thing - If I hadn't drilled in some new species, I would not have been happy with what came out of the seedbank. I really recommend drilling in some switchgrass and whatever forbs you want.
Good luck.
Yes, you can watch them just walking through the fields for hours browsing other weeds, but they will not touch poke. However, at my home 20 minutes away, they browse poke literally to death in the fence rows. The difference is that there is very little good habitat and zero summer crops where I live. At the farm, the fields are a deer buffet. Check out my thread called, “Take a walk with me through the prairie” and it makes sense. The link is shown below. PS - If you really want to see a summer deer feast, look at the picture in Post #55 that shows my NWSGs and forbs on one side of the mowed lane and my neighbor's 70 acres of soybeans on the other side.Wow! Your deer must have a lot of great summer nutrition. Pokeweed is very nutritious and one of the preferred natives around here.
Wow! Your deer must have a lot of great summer nutrition. Pokeweed is very nutritious and one of the preferred natives around here.