To bulb or not to bulb, that is the question?

[pointer]

I have a plot I need to redo. It's been planted in clover/rye, but weeds have gotten the upper hand and I'm going to do something with it this fall. I've thought about switching things up and planting this one to all turnips/radishes. I have some other clover/WR plots not very far away. This would likely be done via throw/roll/spray. I don't get to camp very often, so it's unlikely that I'd get back after planting them to get another round of fertilizer on. Has anyone had luck with only adding fertilizer at planting and making bulbs? Secondly, say I go the tuber route, do you guys plant something with it that will grow next spring or do you rely on a frost seeding for spring?

If I decide to not go with the turnips/radishes, it'll be the Native Hunter red clover/chicory/wheat recipe.

 

[scott44]

I usually go the other way on the fertilizer and add it after planting just before a good rain but if you don't get there very often I'd go with it at the time you plant. I frost seed red clover in the last years brassicas because I use the LC rotation so it'll be cereal rye the next year but adding clover/chicory and wheat at planting time will work too. Good luck with whatever you do!

 

[Peplin Creek]

I actually do both. I drop down fertilizer at planting and then about 4-5 weeks later I drop down more. That normally keeps the plot going extremely strong. Maybe it's overkill but I don't do a soil test either. Two things you can do if your worried about having a bare plot in the spring. First being, around the first week of sept, drop a bag or 2 of rye into the plot. It will grow and won't harm your brassicas. The next spring it will be growing strong. Otherwise, do what you were thinking and frost seed some red clover into the plot come early spring. you should have success with either option.

 

[pointer]

Thanks for the suggestions! I may go ahead and give it a try. Considering throwing some clover (maybe crimson and/or med red) in for some help with the N and hoping for the best.

 

[j-bird]

As long as you have the weeds and other plants killed.....you can apply all the fertilizer at planting. I hate top or side dressing fertilizer in large plots because you typically damage plants in the process.

 

[S.T.Fanatic]

I have fertilized at planting only many times and have produced large bulbs. I have good soil but regardless...


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[j-bird]

Pointer.....also keep in mind that large bulbs can also be a function of the variety of the seed you plant as well. Not all turnips are the same. Some are specifically for forage and lots of green and very little bulb, while others are for large bulbs and not as much green. So you can fertilize the crap out of a plot and plant Appin turnips and your still not going to get big bulbs!

 

[pointer]

Thanks for the tips. I think I'm going to give it a shot and see what happens.

 

[wiscwhip]

I don't think anyone else mentioned this, but I would not roll it down before I sprayed it. Those plants will uptake much more of the herbicide while standing and much more of the foliage will be covered by the spray. Rolling it down will protect a lot of the lower parts of the plants and keep them from receiving even coverage of the herbicide. Broadcast, spray, roll, is likely a better option.

 

[Wild Thing]

As long as you have the weeds and other plants killed.....you can apply all the fertilizer at planting. I hate top or side dressing fertilizer in large plots because you typically damage plants in the process.

I have fertilized at planting only many times and have produced large bulbs. I have good soil but regardless...
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While I agree with both of you that a single application of fertilizer can produce optimal results, there is an exception to that rule if your soil isn't really up to par. If you have a low CEC (Cation Exchange Capacity) and low nutrient levels requiring larger amounts of fertilizer you are better off applying the fertilizer in split applications as your plants will not have the ability to uptake the necessary nutrients all at once at planting. I have been slowly but surely increasing my CEC and OM levels in my soils but they certainly aren't up to par with most ag-quality soils. Even though I don't like risking running over plants while top-dressing at mid-summer, I do see a boost in growth by doing split applications.

 

[Nova]

I don't think anyone else mentioned this, but I would not roll it down before I sprayed it. Those plants will uptake much more of the herbicide while standing and much more of the foliage will be covered by the spray. Rolling it down will protect a lot of the lower parts of the plants and keep them from receiving even coverage of the herbicide. Broadcast, spray, roll, is likely a better option.

While I do agree that makes sense, I have to say they I have had very good luck rolling and then spraying. I don't think the weeds that grow lower to the ground get much if any of the gly if you spray before you roll. I have done plots of rye and plots of oats this way and if I hadn't rolled them first there is no way the weeds that are less than 6" would get any gly in a plot of 4-5' tall rye.

As far as fertilizer, I apply my fert to the brassica at planting time only. I don't get back to the farm after my mid july planting until after labor day, so it's a one time shot for me and it has been quite successful.

 

[wiscwhip]

Yeah, if you had a thick stand of 4'-5' tall rye, you have to get creative I would guess. On our sand rye never got more than 3' or so.

 

[pointer]

Thanks for the discussion!