Tar River SAYA-507 No Till Drill

One thing I do NOT see folks doing on these Tar River NT Drills.....Is anybody increasing the disk opener row unit DOWN PRESSURE via those pre-load springs? I have looked at lots of pics by folks claiming they have no penetration.....but have not increased the pre-load of those springs (on the disk openers). I feel certain we are missing something here.. You can have lots of weight on the drill frame....but if the weight is being carried by the slicer disks and the roller cage....but not applied to the seed disk openers (via spring pressure) then.....what have you got??

Without enough pre-load on the disk openers....they could just "ride up" and over the ground and not penetrate......IMO.

I think Tar River could do some adjustment videos that would help a number of us that own these drills.

I do have 300 lbs of suitcase weights on the front weight trays. I have adjusted the (chrome) hand wheels to improve the penetration of the seed disks. My soil is sandy....and I think I am getting along pretty well at this point. I may try to get a bit more pre-load via what was said above.
I've added spring preload and added physical weight without much appreciable difference. If you have uneven ground the preload is very important to maintain the depth of planting.
 
The 507 ordered last fall just arrived. Dealer super busy so he told me no time to prep for at least a week, but no rush now. Rather than tilling again, I let all plots go fallow this spring and will start prepping for fall plots.

I'm sure I'll be checking back for hints as I'm not very mechanically inclined by nature. So, thanks in advance to all.
 
I went and visited it yesterday. The dealer is still backed up with folks who farm for a living, so I'm in no rush. It was assembled but not fully gone over. I've made them aware of both my lack of mechanical skills and threads like this one reporting poor assembly at the factory. I asked them to go over it completely and that I wasn't in any rush to get it before the end if July, which will leave plenty if time to play with it before fall food plots go in. They were great with delivery of the MX6000 - I found a couple things not perfect and they sent their mobile mechanic out right away. I was impressed.

Rather than disc and till again, I let all plots go fallow this spring. I was planning on bush hogging in a few weeks as close to ground as possible and then drill through the cuttings. I can't burn here and would prefer not to use herbicide if possible. Will this work reasonably well? Or do I need to spray glyphosphate (before or after cutting?). My soil test was remarkable - I only need a little lime and no other nutrients. That was a big surprise.

Thanks.
 
I went and visited it yesterday. The dealer is still backed up with folks who farm for a living, so I'm in no rush. It was assembled but not fully gone over. I've made them aware of both my lack of mechanical skills and threads like this one reporting poor assembly at the factory. I asked them to go over it completely and that I wasn't in any rush to get it before the end if July, which will leave plenty if time to play with it before fall food plots go in. They were great with delivery of the MX6000 - I found a couple things not perfect and they sent their mobile mechanic out right away. I was impressed.

Rather than disc and till again, I let all plots go fallow this spring. I was planning on bush hogging in a few weeks as close to ground as possible and then drill through the cuttings. I can't burn here and would prefer not to use herbicide if possible. Will this work reasonably well? Or do I need to spray glyphosphate (before or after cutting?). My soil test was remarkable - I only need a little lime and no other nutrients. That was a big surprise.

Thanks.

If you have a thick sod of grass or other active living, growing plants and weeds, I.E. not dormant, i would expect your seed to struggle competing after being drilled compared to if you had used herbicide on existing living vegetation.
 
If you have a thick sod of grass or other active living, growing plants and weeds, I.E. not dormant, i would expect your seed to struggle competing after being drilled compared to if you had used herbicide on existing living vegetation.
Thanks, that makes sense. I'll probably need to spray for fall then.
 
If you have a thick sod of grass or other active living, growing plants and weeds, I.E. not dormant, i would expect your seed to struggle competing after being drilled compared to if you had used herbicide on existing living vegetation.
I went and visited it yesterday. The dealer is still backed up with folks who farm for a living, so I'm in no rush. It was assembled but not fully gone over. I've made them aware of both my lack of mechanical skills and threads like this one reporting poor assembly at the factory. I asked them to go over it completely and that I wasn't in any rush to get it before the end if July, which will leave plenty if time to play with it before fall food plots go in. They were great with delivery of the MX6000 - I found a couple things not perfect and they sent their mobile mechanic out right away. I was impressed.

Rather than disc and till again, I let all plots go fallow this spring. I was planning on bush hogging in a few weeks as close to ground as possible and then drill through the cuttings. I can't burn here and would prefer not to use herbicide if possible. Will this work reasonably well? Or do I need to spray glyphosphate (before or after cutting?). My soil test was remarkable - I only need a little lime and no other nutrients. That was a big surprise.

Thanks.
I would mow short.. then do a chemical burn down. Wait two weeks.....and if any green nuke it again. If you spend this time to get it fresh start it would be worth your time and expense.
 
I would mow short.. then do a chemical burn down. Wait two weeks.....and if any green nuke it again. If you spend this time to get it fresh start it would be worth your time and expense.
So, mow within the next couple weeks (Ohio)? Or wait until around 08/01 figuring I'll plant around the 4th week of August or so?
Thanks again.
 
I'd mow ASAP and then burn down a few days after a rain. If anything survives, burn it down again and plant late August.
 
Got it. Thanks!
 
Ok, this dealer actually had one, so time with the wrenches, then time in the field.
View attachment 45112
Now that sure is a thing of beauty really think I need to add one

Sent from my SM-G998U using Tapatalk
 
Keep in mind....when you increase that spring pre-load.....you also reduce the amount of travel in that opener.....which is important for uniform planting depth especially on rough ground. A balance here is key. I gotta try that suggestion I made with a scale to see the increase in pressure for myself.
Just got mine today, so haven't started adjusting. I did look at the preload springs. How are you holding the spring up to move the funky pins to next hole. Almost seems like a two person job.
 
Remove the rear step plate, step over the basket and sit on it.. Then you can pull the spring up with left hand, and remove pin with right hand.
 
I just finished rereading the entire thread. I did the last ground level mowing of the sprayed x2 fallow plots yesterday and we have had rain off and on all day. So I'm probably going to start planting in the next couple days. I think the dealer did a nice job assembling and going over the unit. They set it up with beans in front tray and ran it enough to get it dropping correctly.

I'm not very mechanically inclined and would really like to see some videos of calibration and adjustments if anyone knows of any. I haven't had much luck on YouTube so far. Also never have been on Facebook but if that site is helpful/has videos I would consider joining.

Don't expect miracles this first try but hoping to get things working properly by spring. For now, if I have any huge issues, I kept my 8' cultipacker so I can always broadcast clover, turnips, etc by hand and then cultipack since it's only 3.5 acres for now.

Thanks for any advice or links to videos/other good sites.
 
I just finished rereading the entire thread. I did the last ground level mowing of the sprayed x2 fallow plots yesterday and we have had rain off and on all day. So I'm probably going to start planting in the next couple days. I think the dealer did a nice job assembling and going over the unit. They set it up with beans in front tray and ran it enough to get it dropping correctly.

I'm not very mechanically inclined and would really like to see some videos of calibration and adjustments if anyone knows of any. I haven't had much luck on YouTube so far. Also never have been on Facebook but if that site is helpful/has videos I would consider joining.

Don't expect miracles this first try but hoping to get things working properly by spring. For now, if I have any huge issues, I kept my 8' cultipacker so I can always broadcast clover, turnips, etc by hand and then cultipack since it's only 3.5 acres for now.

Thanks for any advice or links to videos/other good sites.
These drills are actually fairly simple when you think about it.....and after you have operated them a bit. They really just do a good job of controlling the seed rates dropping out of the hopper(s) and place it in a trench cut by the coulters. After you play with yours a bit.....you will be amazed at how well they work.

Using google.......use the words "video on how to calibrate a grain drill"........and I'd bet you will find many videos on YouTube. (I'm going to try just what I suggested to see what I get. Grin.

This is a pretty good one for everyones drill: (Tho I prefer to use some shallow tubs to collect my seeds....rather than the plastic bags as he suggest)

 
Thanks!
 
I think I understand the calibration fairly well now, but remain concerned about depth control. I guess that's just playing with it. I'm going to try to get out in the next day or so to start planting.
 
Roll or crimp as you went?
 
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