Tar River SAYA-507 No Till Drill

[SWIFFY]

I know that mine wanted to bind because the bottom was trying to thread as well. I don’t know if that makes sense. It caused a lot of problems. Once I got the bottom two unthread then I can go at least five or 10 revolutions at a time per side. It’s worked great since then but I definitely needed the weight added to mine for to work overall.

 

[Foggy47]

This guy is using a conventional Tar River drill (no slicing ooulters) and has some good content on his you tube channel. Note the small cultipacker on his drill. Good review.

 

[JonJ]

Dealer called this AM, 507 on truck headed their way. Happy Birthday to me, $6300. Should have bought several years ago, but still cheaper than numerous places. I'll read all of thread and get back with you guys with questions. Only planting about 3 acres (divided over 10 plots) and half mile of logging trails.
Jon

 

[JonJ]

I noticed in older Tar River Youtube videos the drills had a roller on the rear instead of the spring loaded fingers. I think I would rather have the roller. It must have been cheaper to produce the fingers.

Foggy your field looks great. Did you till or no till? I tried to re plant my soybeans today but my field is to wet. I did spring for the wavy coulters and probably find out if they improve the drill on monday.

I noticed your finger bar is installed on the bottom of the mounting bracket and mine is installed on the top.

Howdy Neighbor, I'm just in NC south of Martinsville, Go Pack!
Touched a DLR-72 yesterday. Those little cultipacker wheels are hollow plastic, like mower deck wheels. Since it's designed for prepared seed beds, probably works fine, and makes things pretty.
Now, looking at the arms attaching them, could be a way to add steel wheels or something else. It floats with springs to apply pressure.

 

[JonJ]

Ok, finally got through thread, head spinning. First question is more plot related. Down here in NC, winter wheat and soybeans are main draws. Never had a bean/turnip/sunflower get over 3" tall. Wheat (Sept) starts off great, starts getting hit hard starting late Nov, browsed to the ground by Feb, then ignored through full growth.
My thoughts about drilling are to plant normal mixes, light on beans, then hit it again in 2-3 week intervals to replace browsed items. Idea is to keep them coming and searching out fresh bean/turnip/sunflower sprigs at least through Thanksgiving when our bucks fade back into 1000 acres of state park.
Trying to establish bean fields on 3 acres miles from any crop land is lost cause. We don't attempt much for summer, have clover shaded by the wheat for resident herd.
100 acres of hilly regrowth, no expansion of plots left.

 

[JonJ]

^^. Regarding the assembly.....I would strongly encourage anyone buying one of these to spend some time getting these drills set up properly......and checking as many fasteners and chain alignments and more. Tighten set screws on sprockets, grease those end caps to carefully fill with grease (too much and you will blow the cap off). Buy some chain repair links and maybe some hoses (note to myself on these hoses). I think you could easily spend a day to get this done.....if your a putz like me. ;)

One thing that took some time on my drill was getting the seed cups uniform across the drill. Front and rear........so they dispense equal amounts of seed. I think this is a "one and done" operation.....but it is somewhat of a crucial step in my opinion.....and those little clamps are kinda funky to work with. Also......my seed cups would blow perhaps 1/3 of the seed out of the gap in the sight window on the small seed box.....which I noticed when calibrating. I used some super tape to close the slot in the mating parts for a solution.

Perhaps that blowing the seeds out of the seed cup is not a bad thing for small seeds as I feel the small seeds are getting buried too deeply when dropped in between the openers as this product comes from the factory. I did post (elsewhere) my solution to dropping the seeds behind the openers....as found on other drills. However being able to calibrate is lost if you are scattering 1/3 the small seeds out of the intended system. Anyone else notice this??

Would be nice if TAR RIVER would come up with a set up checklist for this product - if they are not going to assemble properly. It does take some time.....but it also makes you familiar with the machine. Many of the dealers selling these drills do not have a clue about how to set up a grain drill......nor do they want to do that work on a $5000 product "for free".

Having said the above....these drills represent allot of bang for the buck and seem ideal for the food plotters and low use farmers among us. If I were a commercial user or larger scale operator.....I would buy a better machine. I think I can be happy with this product knowing the above shortcomings.

When you talk about calibration of seed cups, are you referring to the sliding pieces that close of the opening to toothed metering wheels? Please expand on that. Plan is to set mine on 4 jack stands, get out the measuring tape, sharpie, caliper and torque wrench and get with it.

 

[omicron1792]

When you talk about calibration of seed cups, are you referring to the sliding pieces that close of the opening to toothed metering wheels? Please expand on that. Plan is to set mine on 4 jack stands, get out the measuring tape, sharpie, caliper and torque wrench and get with it.

Serious question,

If you were a farmer I could see calibrating the seed cups. But why would you do that for food plotting? You can just go by the recommended seeding rate chart, and adjust after 1 acre. At most you’ll be out a little bit of seed, but you could have not put enough seed out Which means you were out nothing. So why spend the time calibrating?

When I spoke to the people at Green cover seeds, they said they have never calibrated their drills. They also can tell you the recommended settings which are 57% on the big seed bin With a gear setting of two for fall release. That’s gonna be close, and you can adjust after 1 acre.

 

[Foggy47]

Serious question,

If you were a farmer I could see calibrating the seed cups. But why would you do that for food plotting? You can just go by the recommended seeding rate chart, and adjust after 1 acre. At most you’ll be out a little bit of seed, but you could have not put enough seed out Which means you were out nothing. So why spend the time calibrating?

When I spoke to the people at Green cover seeds, they said they have never calibrated their drills. They also can tell you the recommended settings which are 57% on the big seed bin With a gear setting of two for fall release. That’s gonna be close, and you can adjust after 1 acre.

 

[Foggy47]

Serious Answer. (grin). Based on what I saw of my seed cups.....some were open perhaps 1/4" and others were completely closed. When your metering small seeds like clover and brasica.....that is going to be a huge difference from one row to the next. I spent some time getting all those seed "rollers" to put out a similar amount of seed per row. Takes a little time fussing with those clamps that hold the rolls.....but I think it's a "one and done" event......and I believe it is worth your time with this drill.

I've never owned other drills to compare to.....but It would be worth checking them. Maybe yours is good. Mine was not. Most everything was a bit kitty wumpass on my drill. Monday assembly? Dunno. Maybe other brands are better.....or perhaps Tar River is better today than last year?

Calibrating may mean different things to different people. I did get my seed cups to put out very similar amounts of seed (I Suppose this could be called set up rather than calibration). Then I calibrated a few rows and did the math. You can use the numbers thrown about here as a good starting reference.....but I think calibrating is worth your time. I did get a uniform stand doing it my way and gained familiarity with the machine.

 

[omicron1792]

Serious Answer. (grin). Based on what I saw of my seed cups.....some were open perhaps 1/4" and others were completely closed. When your metering small seeds like clover and brasica.....that is going to be a huge difference from one row to the next. I spent some time getting all those seed "rollers" to put out a similar amount of seed per row. Takes a little time fussing with those clamps that hold the rolls.....but I think it's a "one and done" event......and I believe it is worth your time with this drill.

I've never owned other drills to compare to.....but It would be worth checking them. Maybe yours is good. Mine was not. Most everything was a bit kitty wumpass on my drill. Monday assembly? Dunno. Maybe other brands are better.....or perhaps Tar River is better today than last year?

Calibrating may mean different things to different people. I did get my seed cups to put out very similar amounts of seed (I Suppose this could be called set up rather than calibration). Then I calibrated a few rows and did the math. You can use the numbers thrown about here as a good starting reference.....but I think calibrating is worth your time. I did get a uniform stand doing it my way and gained familiarity with the machine.

That makes sense. Didn’t mean to be an ass.

Loved reading about all your work with drill

 

[Buckhunter10]

Serious question,

If you were a farmer I could see calibrating the seed cups. But why would you do that for food plotting? You can just go by the recommended seeding rate chart, and adjust after 1 acre. At most you’ll be out a little bit of seed, but you could have not put enough seed out Which means you were out nothing. So why spend the time calibrating?

When I spoke to the people at Green cover seeds, they said they have never calibrated their drills. They also can tell you the recommended settings which are 57% on the big seed bin With a gear setting of two for fall release. That’s gonna be close, and you can adjust after 1 acre.

Wow, that is surprising. I would absolutely recommend calibrating a drill.

Our mixes are meant to be drilled at 45lbs to the acre, some go a smidge heavier at 48-50lbs. A good buddy of mine borrowed a GP drill (which had been used to seed our mixes), it was running at 66lbs per acre. Not only are you going through 32% more seeds, but you are also likely planting seeds at a far higher density than needed. This is even more important with fall mixes where you have grains, brassicas, etc. all fighting for similar nutrients in the soil profile and a higher propensity to choke each other out.

Just my 2 cents but for the time it takes, I'd recommend calibrating - to the best of ones ability.

 

[Foggy47]

That makes sense. Didn’t mean to be an ass.

Loved reading about all your work with drill

No offense taken. We all have different experiences with this stuff. Some are going to be able to use information taken from the web and get along fine.....others of us....not so much. I normally do things the hard way.....but typically learn more by going thru those paces. No right or wrong I suppose.....I'm just driven to know all that I can on some issues.

As a side note.....a few years back we were all working toward what was the best tillage methods and how to broadcast and cover seeds. Now it seems the tide is turning toward hoe to best plant with no-till methods and how to leave our soils as undisturbed as possible. Times they are a-changing. :).

 

[JonJ]

As for me, my career was as a Maintenance Test Pilot and had to understand every component, system, and their interactions. So, maybe a mechanical nerd and anal. Not sure where the pieces for these things are assembled, but I bet the wrench turner is satisfied with meeting minimum expectations and I don't see Quality Control initials anywhere. Besides, what's wrong with wanting to play with new toys. And I bet seed prices will be way up this year, wholesale price index took big jump in May. Buy your stuff early.

 

[omicron1792]

As for me, my career was as a Maintenance Test Pilot and had to understand every component, system, and their interactions. So, maybe a mechanical nerd and anal. Not sure where the pieces for these things are assembled, but I bet the wrench turner is satisfied with meeting minimum expectations and I don't see Quality Control initials anywhere. Besides, what's wrong with wanting to play with new toys. And I bet seed prices will be way up this year, wholesale price index took big jump in May. Buy your stuff early.

Yeah. I didn’t think of the playing with your new toy angle. Makes a lot of sense.

I bought Keeton seed firmers to install on mine so I understand wanting to tinker with it.

 

[Foggy47]

Yeah. I didn’t think of the playing with your new toy angle. Makes a lot of sense.

I bought Keeton seed firmers to install on mine so I understand wanting to tinker with it.

You are forgiven. Go and sin no more. Grin.

 

[JonJ]

Next question. I have numerous small plots, 1/10th acre or a little more along side old logging roads, or the roads. Nothing square or straight for very long. Going to be lots of short pulls, lift, reset, go again. Still better than completely reworking plots twice a year.
Just how careful do I need to be about maintaining perfectly straight pulls?

 

[Foggy47]

Next question. I have numerous small plots, 1/10th acre or a little more along side old logging roads, or the roads. Nothing square or straight for very long. Going to be lots of short pulls, lift, reset, go again. Still better than completely reworking plots twice a year.
Just how careful do I need to be about maintaining perfectly straight pulls?

Most of my plots have gentle turns and twists in them. Any sharp turns I pick up the drill and set it down again. Not a big deal to me. Why a three point is nice....easy to re-set.

 

[Foggy47]

Most of my plots have gentle turns and twists in them. Any sharp turns I pick up the drill and set it down again. Not a big deal to me. Why a three point is nice....easy to re-set.

I wil add.....that those blades (slicers and seed openers) want to run straight.....and turning puts quite a bit of stress on then and the bearings. When you turn a bit too sharp you will see the seed trench get a bit wider as you start to "disk" the land. <-----that is not good....and it's hard on your machine. A gentle turn seems to work fine. I also think my sand does not provide as much resistance to turning as a heavy clay would provide.......so your results may vary. Dont try sharp turns...Pick it up.....reposition the tractor and drill and set it down for another run. This is where a three point drill shines.

 

[JonJ]

&(+_#:&_$&-;'"*:;'"* drove 56 miles to get my drill. Invoice to dealer said 507 delivered. Dealer owner hadn't looked at it. Driver had delivered a DLR-072. Needless to say, I wasted $35 in diesel and I'm not a happy camper.

 

[ACCMan]

OK guys I am selling my Tar River 505. It just will not no till in this clay reliably. I would have to till, then drill, and if I have to do that I have a 70yr old JD Van Brunt with 13 drops I can use, and have the JD71 no till with 3 planters and can add a 4th. I am disappointed but I suspected it would be a stretch. It is what it is.