Tar River SAYA-507 No Till Drill

Its too bad you cant find some bad seed or old stuff that wont germinate. I have 30 pounds of sugar beet seed that wont grow for nothing! It would make great filler.

I think you need to have something though that is non-corrosive and similar in size! Even with Radish I still think youd get significant settling of your turnip seed in the bottom. That happens in a hand spreader in just minutes....
What about adding rice or sand as a filler?
 
Plant early maturing soybean and cereal varieties and you will have no problem.
I just bought a Saya 507 and I'm very excited for next planting season. I currently have lip high clover and chickory with alot of bare spots in my 3, 1 acre plots. What variety of soybeans can I drill in it for the Spring planting or should I do the summer blend that Grant Woods promotes? The deer love the clover so I will be leaning heavy clover in the fall planting next year just because that's the only thing that appears to be able to handle the browse pressure.
 
I just bought a Saya 507 and I'm very excited for next planting season. I currently have lip high clover and chickory with alot of bare spots in my 3, 1 acre plots. What variety of soybeans can I drill in it for the Spring planting or should I do the summer blend that Grant Woods promotes? The deer love the clover so I will be leaning heavy clover in the fall planting next year just because that's the only thing that appears to be able to handle the browse pressure.

You're not going to be able to grow soybeans in clover, chicory unless you spray to terminate them before planting. You'd have to do some research but I'm not sure what would (if anything) kill clover, chicory and not the beans as well, if you wait until after planting.

If only clover can barely (You mention lip high) handle the browse pressure in your plots, I doubt you'd have much success with soybeans. They're not going to handle the browse well at all, you might have more luck with more of a "summer mix" of some sort that can handle the browse..

If you want clover again in the fall, I would recommend using a fall mix of cereal grains like oats, wheat and/or rye with the clover seeding that would take the browse pressure and expand your attractiveness window.

Which brings me to the point.. If clover is the only thing that can take the browse pressure, why not just establish a perennial/biennial clover mix in these areas and just drill in cereal grains each fall? Then just freshen up your clover as needed via frost seeding in late winter. As a bonus you'll have great fawning habitat each spring..
 
Last edited:
What about simply broadcasting the turnips?
 
Also. Carswellk: Sounds like you have a high deer density. With that, I would go with a blend. Or, as Bassattackr suggests, straight clover would be good.
 
great thread.

I have a SAYA 507 on the way.

The current tractor is a L3800 - lift capacity says it should handle around 1455 at 24inchs behind lift arms and 1955 at end of arms. I plan to add weight to the drill and seed - at the location of each field vs. traveling with added weight/seed full. The dealers I have spoken to seem to say it will handle it fine, even the WOODS seeders that are more near 2K lbs - they said the L3800 lifts fine but the capacity has me a smidge worried.

Anyone running a similar size tractor? I know @breddick started with a 32hp JD.

Thank you all for the information. I have been no-tilling 10+ acres for a few years - all via broadcast. I have had some great success but looking forward to stepping up my game.
 
Last edited:
great thread.

I have a SAYA 507 on the way.

The current tractor is a L3800 - lift capacity says it should handle around 1455 at 24inchs behind lift arms and 1955 at end of arms. I plan to add weight to the drill and seed - at the location of each field vs. traveling with added weight/seed full. The dealers I have spoken to seem to say it will handle it fine, even the WOODS seeders that are more near 2K lbs - they said the L3800 lifts fine but the capacity has me a smidge worried.

Anyone running a similar size tractor? I know @breddick started with a 32hp JD.

Thank you all for the information. I have been no-tilling 10+ acres for a few years - all via broadcast. I have had some great success but looking forward to stepping up my age.

Do you have a FEL? If so, I think you’ll be fine. If not, I’d be very careful on hills.
 
Do you have a FEL? If so, I think you’ll be fine. If not, I’d be very careful on hills.

Yes sir. I should have mentioned that. That is also the dealer said. Said with an FEL you’ll be fine and I can add weight if I want to the fel.

I plan to upgrade to the 7060 but I’m a year or so out yet. Thanks for the comment.
 
That L3800 will have no trouble with the drill. Enjoy it!
 
Theres a 7ft great plains on purplewave under grain drills right now at 4500.00
 
Ordered a Tar-River Saya 505 no till earlier this year. It has finally been delivered to the dealership. Excited for no-till and more efficient planting. Has anyone tried the Green Cover Seed Summer and Fall Releases?
 
Ordered a Tar-River Saya 505 no till earlier this year. It has finally been delivered to the dealership. Excited for no-till and more efficient planting. Has anyone tried the Green Cover Seed Summer and Fall Releases?

Depending on where you are, itll be much cheaper to just have a local seed mill mix it up for you. I use MERIT in Ohio and last year I had a 15+ way mix that turned out fantastic! If you don't mind paying to ship and you are doing 5 acres or less, I am certain you will only get quality from Green Cover Seed.
 
That L3800 will have no trouble with the drill. Enjoy it!

I’ve read this post thread numerous so I apologize if I missed it or just can’t remember.


Did you try the buffalo system and if so how did the roller crimper treat your beans?
 
Theres a 7ft great plains on purplewave under grain drills right now at 4500.00
I just checked, it went over $10,000. I think that's plenty for a well used 20 year old drill.
 
You're not going to be able to grow soybeans in clover, chicory unless you spray to terminate them before planting. You'd have to do some research but I'm not sure what would (if anything) kill clover, chicory and not the beans as well, if you wait until after planting.

If only clover can barely (You mention lip high) handle the browse pressure in your plots, I doubt you'd have much success with soybeans. They're not going to handle the browse well at all, you might have more luck with more of a "summer mix" of some sort that can handle the browse..

If you want clover again in the fall, I would recommend using a fall mix of cereal grains like oats, wheat and/or rye with the clover seeding that would take the browse pressure and expand your attractiveness window.

Which brings me to the point.. If clover is the only thing that can take the browse pressure, why not just establish a perennial/biennial clover mix in these areas and just drill in cereal grains each fall? Then just freshen up your clover as needed via frost seeding in late winter. As a bonus you'll have great fawning habitat each spring..
I agree - frost seed clover seed into the thin spots and drill or broadcast cereal grain into the clover next fall. I have had that rotation going for the past five years and wish I had done that twenty years ago.
 
I agree - frost seed clover seed into the thin spots and drill or broadcast cereal grain into the clover next fall. I have had that rotation going for the past five years and wish I had done that twenty years ago.

That’s what I’m trying to get everyone on board with in our club. Perennial clover and alfalfa with oats drilled into it in October. A very easy plot.
 
They do seem to jump at the end when I am ready and sell cheap when I am not.There is a big spring consignment auction coming soon that I will watch.Most counties have these farm auctions sometime during the year and alot of smaller equipt gets sold.You are usually bidding against other food plotters or the guys that buy and truck to Mexico.
 
This is a great thread with a ton of info. Quick question, Are you all using the SAYA no-till model or are there a few of you using the DRL72 in no till applications?

The reason I am asking is because I been following a guy on youtube called "the back 40" and he is using a DRL model in no-till applications. Ironically he his food plots are in the neighboring county and from what I seen on his vids he has pretty close to the same soil structure as me. Sandy loam, no clay probably about 10 inches of loose topsoil. From what I seen on the vids, looks like he has pretty good soil penetration and good germination.

I've no-tilled with my old JD/VB single disc opener grain drill using what I call confidence seeds (oats, rye and WW because they will grow if they see dirt) and have had good results. My problem occurs when I try to overseed my pastures/hay fields with grasses or alfalfa. The single disc opener and with the hope of a drag chain to cover it has had less then desirable results.

I don't need deep penetration for the majority of the seeds I plant and the price difference between the DRL and the SAYA is pretty substantial. 90% of its use will be areas with little thatch from grazing or baling so I'm not sure the added cost for the NT coulters is worth it.

BTW I am the new guy here I do hunt but am also a small scale farmer. Few cattle, few pigs and mrs. needs her two horses. So I am asking a lot of farm related questions but you guys are the only ones with experience with this product.
 
Got quoted $6,800 today for the Saya 507 but can't get it until September or October. No thanks. Told them I'd think more about it come summer time and see what the wait time was as it got closer.
I'm still very skeptical that this drill could work in heavy clay soil and even if it were able to cut an opening, would it be able to close it back up?
 
Got quoted $6,800 today for the Saya 507 but can't get it until September or October. No thanks. Told them I'd think more about it come summer time and see what the wait time was as it got closer.
I'm still very skeptical that this drill could work in heavy clay soil and even if it were able to cut an opening, would it be able to close it back up?
i ordered one last feb and still dont have it, Tar river told me it was going to arrive this month but it hasn't yet. as long as i get it for spring ill be happy.
 
Top