Switch grass in 2018.....

John-W-WI

Administrator
I know switch has been discussed here more than once, but I'd like to explain my situation and ask for everyone's suggestions.

I have a 12 acre field I created after buying the farm. I'm coming to terms with having made it too big and too close to the property line. The $ per acre I have invested to clear this 12 acres is embarrassing. With that said, I don't want to turn it back to trees as that is what I spent the money getting rid of. Actually getting rid of the trees paid me, but hiring an excavator to remove the stumps was spendy.

So I would like to try a mixture of switchgrass and a few small "clumps" of trees. That way if I change my mind (or the old man neighbor ever agrees to sell me the adjacent land) I can easily turn it back to an open field.

So as is with all of my farm there are millions of rocks. We've rock picked much of it, but we aren't done yet.

On to my questions:
Should I finish rock picking the areas I'm going to plant switch in so I can mow it in the future? It isn't feasible to mow it without rock picking first.

Is frost seeding the most reliable method of planting switch? If so, I would probably rock pick this summer, plant brassicas this fall, and be ready to plant switch next spring.

Any other thoughts from the experts?

Thanks,

-John
 
I know switch has been discussed here more than once, but I'd like to explain my situation and ask for everyone's suggestions.

I have a 12 acre field I created after buying the farm. I'm coming to terms with having made it too big and too close to the property line. The $ per acre I have invested to clear this 12 acres is embarrassing. With that said, I don't want to turn it back to trees as that is what I spent the money getting rid of. Actually getting rid of the trees paid me, but hiring an excavator to remove the stumps was spendy.

So I would like to try a mixture of switchgrass and a few small "clumps" of trees. That way if I change my mind (or the old man neighbor ever agrees to sell me the adjacent land) I can easily turn it back to an open field.

So as is with all of my farm there are millions of rocks. We've rock picked much of it, but we aren't done yet.

On to my questions:
Should I finish rock picking the areas I'm going to plant switch in so I can mow it in the future? It isn't feasible to mow it without rock picking first.

Is frost seeding the most reliable method of planting switch? If so, I would probably rock pick this summer, plant brassicas this fall, and be ready to plant switch next spring.

Any other thoughts from the experts?

Thanks,

-John
I'm not a switchgrass expert at all, but I do have a little patch of switch. I didn't frost seed it. I planted it in spring and within 3 years it was 6 feet tall. Spring planting worked fine.

As for maintenance, I mowed it only once and I did that after the 3rd year. But I thought I've always read that burning is the preferred method for switch maintenance. Is that correct? (I couldn't burn mine without risk).

I experimented with some tree plantings in the switch. So far, it's not going well. The switch cover is prime habitat for mice and voles. I lost several pears to rodent gnawing.

W. Pa.
 
I've never spring planted switch, only ever frost seeded.
But over the years I have seen pictures and read about spring planting working as well as frost seeding. Also I have spring planted other Warm season grasses, Indian and bluestem with success.

It's worth a call to John at oshenbaugh's native seed in Iowa. Ask him about getting stratified seed. (Plan to be on the phone a while) he loves talking native grass.

Hire a sprayer to put down Atrazine as soon as you can. The spring rains will help it work. Plant late spring early summer after rock picking and applying gly. It can be broadcast or drilled. I own a drill and find it easier to broadcast.

Side note on Atrazine. Don't use it if your including forbs. And leave a buffer strip if your planing beans in other parts of the field. It will keep them from germinating.

I've never burnt. One field is 7 years old. I did mow and hit it with gly a few springs ago as it was getting weedy. That's the only time I've mowed. Now thefield is slowly being taken over by blackberries and I'm ok with that.

Red cedar seems to struggle it's way out of the grass. I'm ok with that also.
 
I did a 12 acre prairie restoration on my land 24 years ago. Did I pick rocks from the field first. YES for sure I did. Since my prairie had 20 forbs and 7 grasses in it, I had a special planter come and do the installation. Some prairie seed is very tiny and it needs a pressurized planter for it to get into the ground. It is also planted very shallow. My planting was done in the early fall. I had sprayed the field with Roundup and mowed it prior to planting. It was a fallow corn field when I bought the land. Your first two years will leave you wondering if any prairie plants have established themselves. They put down tap roots first and there is little to see above ground. Just be patient and mow your prairie for the first few years to knock back the weeds.
Do you plan on doing controlled burns on this acreage? I do on mine and have done 6 so far. You will need to think about the burns in advance of the planting. Specifically, you will need a fire break around the entire prairie. I have a 15 foot wide open area that I use as a road system that goes around the perimeter. I disk it every year to serve as my fire break. I use the UW-Stevens Point fire crew. They are a group of mostly natural resources majors who do controlled burns and ride with local DNR personnel to wildfires. Very professional and extremely reasonable cost for the job. If you are going to burn, I would recommend against planting any trees in the same field. They just make a burn harder to accomplish. I go through my prairie every spring and eliminate the volunteer oak trees that the squirrels have started. Trees and prairies just do not mix well.
 
If I were you I'd continue picking rocks this summer and get all the green stuff killed and frost seed next Jan/Feb. I also like the idea of planting conifers in and around my switch to promote bedding and some thermal protection in the future.

This is a 5-6 acre field that I've taken red cedar and norway spruce and planted pockets on and around, the first couple years the deer didn't bother the norways and then 2 years ago they wiped just about everyone of them out so now I'm trying to hide them in some hinged areas with some caging also.



 
I am no expert. I took my field edges and prepped and prepped and had them drilled with 1/3 indiangrass, 1/3 big bluestem and 1/3 switchgrass in mid summer a few years ago. The switchgrass is a hard seed and went in it's own hopper. Well what I have as a result is switchgrass in rows. It isn't a bad thing, but it isn't perfect either. The rows are nice as I can allow natural weeds like ragweed grow to add diversity, but it can also be a path for issues. I am working on expanding my switchgrass planting, but I am going to try a different method. In simply going to try to kill off the existing vegetation and simply disc enough to break the surface and then broadcast. The rain should do the rest. I will simply have to fight off the weeds to ensure the switch grows. Switch grows best in the heat of the summer.....as long as it gets the moisture it needs. IF you can get it to survive the summer you pretty much have it made. The first full year it will be OK. The second year is much better and I got my best growth in my 3rd year. It's also pretty durable stuff. I had areas that the loggers matted to the grown and I thought was DEAD! Nope - it bounced back.....it was shorter than the rest but it's fine. As for planting shrubs - I think if you have one large block I would agree that shrubs would add some structure to the planting. Just remember that fire is a great tool for switch, but not so god for shrubs. My switch is mostly in buffers and deer bed along the edge with some other cover type or with some sort of structure.
 
Thanks for the input everyone. I continue to plan and research.

Unfortunately burning is out of the question for me (it's possible, just not for me). The field I want to plant into is surrounded by 1000's of acres of timber. If it ever got away from me, someone else would own my farm :emoji_astonished:
 
Thanks for the input everyone. I continue to plan and research.

Unfortunately burning is out of the question for me (it's possible, just not for me). The field I want to plant into is surrounded by 1000's of acres of timber. If it ever got away from me, someone else would own my farm :emoji_astonished:

John ... I did my first switch grass seeding this spring, just got done planting 22 acres. Spent the last year researching and compiled some notes. Paul Knox shared a lot on different sites known as Lickcreek and some of that info is from him. Below is a summary of the info I gathered ...

Switchgrass - Establishment and management

Switchgrass:
Switchgrass is perhaps the ultimate winter wildlife cover. Nearly all types of Iowa wildlife from deer to quail will use its dense, upright cover for protection from weather and predators. Switchgrass is a warm season grass (growth is during the hot summer months), grows from 4-6 ft. high and will remain upright through out the winter. Heavy snows will cause it to bend, but a warm sunny day will find it shrugging off the snow and standing upright again. Since it grows in clumps, rather then a dense sod, it leaves travel ways for small game such as pheasants and quail. Switchgrass is drought resistant, provides excellent erosion control and will grow on most types of soils, including lowlands.
In states such as Iowa, where switchgrass is more common, several Boone & Crockett bucks have been taken from small stands of switchgrass, where they had eluded hunters for years by hiding in the dense cover. Switchgrass can be somewhat slow and difficult to establish, but once this is accomplished, it will remain a viable stand for 20 or more years. Initial costs tend to be high, but spread over a lifetime is really quite small.

Switchgrass will grow on most soils from sand to heavy clay but thrives on rich moist soils and can handle some brief flooding along waterways.


Upland varieties:

Cave In Rock (CIR) is one of the tallest, rankest, most winter hardy and longest lived. Cave In Rock is one of the most sought after switchgrass varieties because it is such a tall and dominate species but it is also one of the most dormant seeds. Dormancy however is not an issue when seed is broadcast or drilled onto frozen soils in February or March. Shawnee and CIR are the two top varieties in Iowa tested for bio-fuels production

Others - Trailblazer is a good tall variety, Nebraska 28 & Blackwell a shorter variety better suited for upland bird habitat (Blackwell is one of the least dormant along with NE28 and are better suited for spring drilling but they are more susceptible to rust and disease then Cave In Rock and therefor may not be as long lived), Caddo, Pathfinder, Forsetburg Upper plains states, Dakotah


Lowland varieties:

Alamo

Kanlow


Cave-in-rock, Blackwell, Pathfinder, Forestburg, and Trailblazer are varieties well adapted to the mid-west. If possible planting an eco-type from your area will help ensure a longer lived healthy stand. Switchgrass is best managed as a pure stand where the chief use will be to provide winter cover near cropland or food plots. Adjacent stands of Native Warm Season Grass mixes and alfalfa or clover will provide a well-diversified source of nesting and brood rearing habitat for upland game birds and other wildlife.
Switchgrass provides year around cover for whitetails and is a great benefit in helping to slow or prevent poachers. It is very difficult to spot deer in a thick stand of switchgrass and deer of all ages will use it as a secure bedding area.

Switchgrass Establishment:


Switchgrass and other warm-season grasses require a soil temperature of above 50 degrees F for satisfactory germination. Recommended seeding rate is 4 to 5 pure live seed (PLS) up to 8-10 lb/acre. The planting site should be free of perennial or noxious weeds. A moist, firm seedbed is essential. Firming the soil with a roller packer before seeding helps ensure that the seed is placed at the recommended seeding depth of ¼ to ½ inch. Broadcast packer-seeders or drills equipped with disk openers and depth bands provide the best results. Companion crops are not recommended.

Switchgrass seed is often dormant and may not germinate unless stratified (exposed to a period of wet chill). It is best seeded in late winter (February or March) although very late fall/early winter will also work well. This allows the seed to stratify as it would in natural prairie conditions. Broadcasting or no tilling on bean ground works best, since there is little ground cover. No-tilling works better in sod or heavy residue, but either method must be done on bare ground (no snow cover.) Switch can also be broadcast over freshly planted corn where Atrazine is used for weed control.


The seed is small, hard seed that is running as water, and easily sown with most any type of seeding equipment from a $20 hand broadcast seeder to a $12,000 no-till drill. In all cases, no tillage is preferred, however the less residue the better. Close mowing/shredding or burning and herbicide, the summer and fall previous will accomplish this.


Preparation for seeding, should be started the summer/fall before seeding. A soil test can determine if lime or fertilizer are needed, however application of nitrogen should be delayed until the 2nd year. Nitrogen tends to encourage competitive cool season grass and weed growth., however mature switchgrass stands will flourish if Urea 46% is applied in early to mid June.


1) Begin by mowing (assuming the area is currently in sod), in mid to late July. Letting someone take hay off the area, is even better. This will remove all vegetation and litter to allow for better seed contact. If it is in crops, such as corn, mow, shred or burn the stalks, but do not disc or till.

2) In late August/early September, spray 1 ½ to 2 quarts of Roundup per acre, on the new re-growth adding 1 quart of crop oil and 2 ounces of Oust XP will ensure a better kill. On larger acreage’s you may be able to hire the spraying done by your local ag-chemical/fertilizer dealer (grain elevator), or a neighboring farmer. On smaller plots, an ATV mounted sprayer, or even a backpack sprayer will work

This process will kill and remove all vegetation, to prepare for seeding. The dead root system, left by the killed sod, will hold the soil and prevent erosion, until the new seedlings take root. This is one of the most important steps, if your new seeding is to be planted on sod.

3) Frost seed anytime from late November to late March, with February and March, being the optimum seeding time. Seed at 5-6# per acre, if using a drill, slightly more if broadcasting.

A) Small plots can be seeded by hand using a small handheld broadcast seeder, such as can be purchased at your local yard & garden center. ATV or tractor mounted
seeders also will work fine. Strive for 50 seeds per sq. ft. or 3.5 seeds per sq. inch. Check by spacing 3” paper cups across the path of your broadcast spreader, after
broadcasting seed across the path of the cups, you should have 2 ½ seeds per cup, more or less will require adjusting the gate on your seeder accordingly.
This rate will apply 2,000,000 seeds per acre. (389,000 seeds per #)

B) Larger fields can be planted using a no-till drill designed for planting Native Grasses. These are available through the your County Conservation Board & Pheasants Forever but require advance notice to reserve one, (contact your habitat chairman) however planting in the wintertime will mean less competition for the drill. Most drills will have two separate seeders - one for small hard seed like switchgrass, clover, alfalfa, etc. and a second hopper for fluffy seeds like Big Bluestem and Indiangrass.


Check the seeding rate by running the drill a few feet on a hard driveway and counting the seeds per inch. It is best to plant when the ground is slightly frozen (morning), rather then muddy or wet. The drill should barely cover the seed, with 30-50% being left uncovered. The freezing/thawing action will cover the seed and the wet/chill of late winter will stratify the seed, in the same manner as occurs on a natural prairie.

C) Another option is to plow, till & cultipack in early spring and broadcast or drill seed in using more conventional methods, however you may encounter a host of problems using this method. 1st since switchgrass seed is dormant, most of it may not sprout until the following spring, 2nd - tilling the soil will encourage a flush of weeds and grasses, not encountered with no-till methods. Use of herbicides and a great deal of patience will be in order using this method. If you do till/plant, a firm seedbed is a must, and care must be taken not to plant seed to deep. Pack, broadcast, and re-pack to lightly cover.

4) Weed control - Where possible, apply 2 to 4 quarts of Atrazine or Princep (simazine), early in the spring before weeds emerge. Apply the lower rate on lighter sandy soils, and the heavier rate on heavy clay type soils. Atrazine is a Restricted Use Pesticide and can only be applied by Certified operator (local ag-chem. dealer or licensed farmer) Princep is not classified as a RUP at this time and can be sprayed on with an ATV or backpack sprayer at 2 - 4 quarts per acre (less on lighter ground). Broadleaf weeds can be controlled later in the growing season with 2,4-D, however the switchgrass seedlings must have at least 4 leaves before spraying. Apply 2,4-D at a rate of 1 pint per acre.
 
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Switchgrass Establishment - Con't

Herbicides will enable the switchgrass to be established in one year instead of three! If you are unable or unwilling to use herbicides, mowing is another option. Clip weeds to a
height of 8- 12 inches. Mow early and often, to keep weed cover from getting to heavy. A rotary mower (brush hog) can suffocate the new seedlings if weed cover is allowed
to get to tall.

New switchgrass seedlings cannot tolerate being cut themselves at this point, so great care must be taken to make sure you clip above them. Switchgrass seedlings will grow
VERY slowly using this method and may take 3-5 years to produce a good stand.
Note: Atrazine is very effective weed control when applied at higher rates pre-emergence and switchgrass is very tolerant. Princep is much less effective and should be used
only if Atrazine is not an option, especially on heavier soils.

Establishment costs:

Initial seed and herbicide costs can be high the first year. Seed costs can run $5.00 to $13.00 per lb, or $25 to $65 per acre. If you are a Pheasants Forever member, they may help by providing seed or cost share to help defray seed costs.

Herbicide costs will run $15 to $30 an acre for Roundup and residual’s such as Atrazine $12 to $32 per acre, plus $10 to $30 per acre in applicator costs. The advantage is a solid stand in one to two years.

Mowing (if herbicide is not used) can run $15 to 40 per acre, and you may need the new seeding mowed 3-4 times the first summer. If you own you own your mower and have patience, this can be a more economical method, but do not expect a good stand for 3-5 years.

Management:

Burning - Switchgrass stands should be burned every 3-5 years to maintain a healthy stand. Burn in early April to promote the growth of other forbs and keep the stand from getting to thick for wildlife to use it. Plan your burn for late April to early May if you prefer a thicker pure stand of switchgrass.
Planting a strip of legumes such as clover, around the perimeter of your switchgrass stand, will provide a firebreak and add diversity to your wildlife habitat. Delay mowing this green strip until mid summer, when nesting is completed.


Check township and county burning ordinances, in case permits are required. Contact the local NRCS and local Pheasants Forever chapter for more information on burning. Burning is an important tool, but requires that you have help, tools, and knowledge of how to conduct a safe burn before doing so.
A second option is to have someone take hay off your switchgrass stand, after the nesting season (mid July) This will remove all the litter and let light in to encourage other broadleaf’s and plant diversity, for better wildlife usage. Once established, switchgrass will need little if any fertilizer, especially if the stand is for wildlife use. Burning will release nitrogen, and other nutrients to keep the stand healthy.


Herbicides - 2-4D can be sprayed periodically if goldenrod begins to invade the stand. This tends to happen more on poorer ground then on more fertile soils.

Summary:

Establishing a stand of switchgrass can be expensive, challenging, even frustrating at times. Expect to wear out the knees in a pair of jeans the first summer, as you find yourself crawling on the ground looking for the new seedlings! In a few years you will find it was worth it, as you flush a flock of pheasants or watch a buck bound from his bed in the tall prairie grass!
You will find that establishing a stand of switchgrass is the single most important thing you will ever do to promote, top quality pheasant habitat!!!
Remember to ask questions and advice from the staff at the NRCS and your local Pheasants Forever habitat committee. Above all DO NOT consider your switchgrass planting a failure until the end of the second season, and only after qualified people have examined the seeding. Good luck!

Sources:
Osenbaugh Seeds, Lucas Iowa: www.prairieseedfarms.com

Welters Seed – Onslow, IA www.welterseed.com

Ernst Seed – Meadville, PA http://www.ernstseed.com/
 
John ... I did my first switch grass seeding this spring, just got done planting 22 acres. Spent the last year researching and compiled some notes. Paul Know shared a lot on different sites known as Lickcreek and some of that info is from him. Below is a summary of the info I gathered ...

Switchgrass - Establishment and management

Switchgrass:
Switchgrass is perhaps the ultimate winter wildlife cover. Nearly all types of Iowa wildlife from deer to quail will use its dense, upright cover for protection from weather and predators. Switchgrass is a warm season grass (growth is during the hot summer months), grows from 4-6 ft. high and will remain upright through out the winter. Heavy snows will cause it to bend, but a warm sunny day will find it shrugging off the snow and standing upright again. Since it grows in clumps, rather then a dense sod, it leaves travel ways for small game such as pheasants and quail. Switchgrass is drought resistant, provides excellent erosion control and will grow on most types of soils, including lowlands.
In states such as Iowa, where switchgrass is more common, several Boone & Crockett bucks have been taken from small stands of switchgrass, where they had eluded hunters for years by hiding in the dense cover. Switchgrass can be somewhat slow and difficult to establish, but once this is accomplished, it will remain a viable stand for 20 or more years. Initial costs tend to be high, but spread over a lifetime is really quite small.

Switchgrass will grow on most soils from sand to heavy clay but thrives on rich moist soils and can handle some brief flooding along waterways.


Upland varieties:

Cave In Rock (CIR) is one of the tallest, rankest, most winter hardy and longest lived. Cave In Rock is one of the most sought after switchgrass varieties because it is such a tall and dominate species but it is also one of the most dormant seeds. Dormancy however is not an issue when seed is broadcast or drilled onto frozen soils in February or March. Shawnee and CIR are the two top varieties in Iowa tested for bio-fuels production

Others - Trailblazer is a good tall variety, Nebraska 28 & Blackwell a shorter variety better suited for upland bird habitat (Blackwell is one of the least dormant along with NE28 and are better suited for spring drilling but they are more susceptible to rust and disease then Cave In Rock and therefor may not be as long lived), Caddo, Pathfinder, Forsetburg Upper plains states, Dakotah


Lowland varieties:

Alamo

Kanlow


Cave-in-rock, Blackwell, Pathfinder, Forestburg, and Trailblazer are varieties well adapted to the mid-west. If possible planting an eco-type from your area will help ensure a longer lived healthy stand. Switchgrass is best managed as a pure stand where the chief use will be to provide winter cover near cropland or food plots. Adjacent stands of Native Warm Season Grass mixes and alfalfa or clover will provide a well-diversified source of nesting and brood rearing habitat for upland game birds and other wildlife.
Switchgrass provides year around cover for whitetails and is a great benefit in helping to slow or prevent poachers. It is very difficult to spot deer in a thick stand of switchgrass and deer of all ages will use it as a secure bedding area.

Switchgrass Establishment:


Switchgrass and other warm-season grasses require a soil temperature of above 50 degrees F for satisfactory germination. Recommended seeding rate is 4 to 5 pure live seed (PLS) up to 8-10 lb/acre. The planting site should be free of perennial or noxious weeds. A moist, firm seedbed is essential. Firming the soil with a roller packer before seeding helps ensure that the seed is placed at the recommended seeding depth of ¼ to ½ inch. Broadcast packer-seeders or drills equipped with disk openers and depth bands provide the best results. Companion crops are not recommended.

Switchgrass seed is often dormant and may not germinate unless stratified (exposed to a period of wet chill). It is best seeded in late winter (February or March) although very late fall/early winter will also work well. This allows the seed to stratify as it would in natural prairie conditions. Broadcasting or no tilling on bean ground works best, since there is little ground cover. No-tilling works better in sod or heavy residue, but either method must be done on bare ground (no snow cover.) Switch can also be broadcast over freshly planted corn where Atrazine is used for weed control.


The seed is small, hard seed that is running as water, and easily sown with most any type of seeding equipment from a $20 hand broadcast seeder to a $12,000 no-till drill. In all cases, no tillage is preferred, however the less residue the better. Close mowing/shredding or burning and herbicide, the summer and fall previous will accomplish this.


Preparation for seeding, should be started the summer/fall before seeding. A soil test can determine if lime or fertilizer are needed, however application of nitrogen should be delayed until the 2nd year. Nitrogen tends to encourage competitive cool season grass and weed growth., however mature switchgrass stands will flourish if Urea 46% is applied in early to mid June.


1) Begin by mowing (assuming the area is currently in sod), in mid to late July. Letting someone take hay off the area, is even better. This will remove all vegetation and litter to allow for better seed contact. If it is in crops, such as corn, mow, shred or burn the stalks, but do not disc or till.

2) In late August/early September, spray 1 ½ to 2 quarts of Roundup per acre, on the new re-growth adding 1 quart of crop oil and 2 ounces of Oust XP will ensure a better kill. On larger acreage’s you may be able to hire the spraying done by your local ag-chemical/fertilizer dealer (grain elevator), or a neighboring farmer. On smaller plots, an ATV mounted sprayer, or even a backpack sprayer will work

This process will kill and remove all vegetation, to prepare for seeding. The dead root system, left by the killed sod, will hold the soil and prevent erosion, until the new seedlings take root. This is one of the most important steps, if your new seeding is to be planted on sod.

3) Frost seed anytime from late November to late March, with February and March, being the optimum seeding time. Seed at 5-6# per acre, if using a drill, slightly more if broadcasting.

A) Small plots can be seeded by hand using a small handheld broadcast seeder, such as can be purchased at your local yard & garden center. ATV or tractor mounted
seeders also will work fine. Strive for 50 seeds per sq. ft. or 3.5 seeds per sq. inch. Check by spacing 3” paper cups across the path of your broadcast spreader, after
broadcasting seed across the path of the cups, you should have 2 ½ seeds per cup, more or less will require adjusting the gate on your seeder accordingly.
This rate will apply 2,000,000 seeds per acre. (389,000 seeds per #)

B) Larger fields can be planted using a no-till drill designed for planting Native Grasses. These are available through the your County Conservation Board & Pheasants Forever but require advance notice to reserve one, (contact your habitat chairman) however planting in the wintertime will mean less competition for the drill. Most drills will have two separate seeders - one for small hard seed like switchgrass, clover, alfalfa, etc. and a second hopper for fluffy seeds like Big Bluestem and Indiangrass.


Check the seeding rate by running the drill a few feet on a hard driveway and counting the seeds per inch. It is best to plant when the ground is slightly frozen (morning), rather then muddy or wet. The drill should barely cover the seed, with 30-50% being left uncovered. The freezing/thawing action will cover the seed and the wet/chill of late winter will stratify the seed, in the same manner as occurs on a natural prairie.

C) Another option is to plow, till & cultipack in early spring and broadcast or drill seed in using more conventional methods, however you may encounter a host of problems using this method. 1st since switchgrass seed is dormant, most of it may not sprout until the following spring, 2nd - tilling the soil will encourage a flush of weeds and grasses, not encountered with no-till methods. Use of herbicides and a great deal of patience will be in order using this method. If you do till/plant, a firm seedbed is a must, and care must be taken not to plant seed to deep. Pack, broadcast, and re-pack to lightly cover.

4) Weed control - Where possible, apply 2 to 4 quarts of Atrazine or Princep (simazine), early in the spring before weeds emerge. Apply the lower rate on lighter sandy soils, and the heavier rate on heavy clay type soils. Atrazine is a Restricted Use Pesticide and can only be applied by Certified operator (local ag-chem. dealer or licensed farmer) Princep is not classified as a RUP at this time and can be sprayed on with an ATV or backpack sprayer at 2 - 4 quarts per acre (less on lighter ground). Broadleaf weeds can be controlled later in the growing season with 2,4-D, however the switchgrass seedlings must have at least 4 leaves before spraying. Apply 2,4-D at a rate of 1 pint per acre.
Wow, thank you Tree Spud! I think you just saved me a lot of time and effort.

John

Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk
 
In 2011 I successfully established CIR switchgrass by spraying fescue with gly/oust in the fall, frost seeding in Jan, then atrazine in early spring. I may have used something for broadleaves that summer too. Its done well, works great to cut down a visibility issue of a large open field, but frankly has fallen short with respect to wildlife usage. Just this spring I planted 100 chestnuts in a corner and will be doing battle with the SG to kill out ~8 foot circles.
 
I am expanding my switchgrass planting this year. I mowed off all the dead stuff and saplings and will be nuking the current vegetation soon. I'll disc just a bit to help get more bare ground and then will broadcast and control weeds.

Don't be afraid to burn, just take the needed steps in advance. Firebreaks planted to cool season plants or even running a tiller or 2 bottom plow can create the fire breaks you need to be able to burn safely. You can also flatten or even mow the grass before burning as well. I have also used my sprayer as a "firetruck" before if needed. Just like anything preparation and timing are all significant parts to success.

As part of my planting this year I have also transplanted some cedars to help give it some structure. Deer seem to like something other than just a sea of grass. Most of mine is in buffer strips and the deer like to bed in downed tree tops or islands of saplings and the like with the switchgrass providing that visual screen. I would not recommend creating a sea of grass.
 
As part of my planting this year I have also transplanted some cedars to help give it some structure. Deer seem to like something other than just a sea of grass. Most of mine is in buffer strips and the deer like to bed in downed tree tops or islands of saplings and the like with the switchgrass providing that visual screen. I would not recommend creating a sea of grass.

j-bird - it sounds like what you are doing is what I hope to do in the future.

The field is ~12 acres currently, with 2 "low" spots in it. They are only wet in the spring, usually hold water just long enough for the tadpoles to grow up in. The rest of the year they are damp or wet with heavy rains.

My plan is to plant clumps of willows in those low spots and eventually add some evergreens as well. I wrapped the entire field in spruce (norway and white) 2 years ago. They should start taking off this summer. I hope to establish the grass in sections of the field. Mix some food in as well.

I'll probably change my mind 10 times before I actually do, but that's what I'm thinking right now.

-John
 
j-bird - it sounds like what you are doing is what I hope to do in the future.

The field is ~12 acres currently, with 2 "low" spots in it. They are only wet in the spring, usually hold water just long enough for the tadpoles to grow up in. The rest of the year they are damp or wet with heavy rains.

My plan is to plant clumps of willows in those low spots and eventually add some evergreens as well. I wrapped the entire field in spruce (norway and white) 2 years ago. They should start taking off this summer. I hope to establish the grass in sections of the field. Mix some food in as well.

I'll probably change my mind 10 times before I actually do, but that's what I'm thinking right now.

-John
Yep - mix in some diversity in that tall grass and you will be in business. I have a string of willows in some switch now near a plot of mine and the bucks seemed to rub every stem they could reach! I have searched that area several times for a shed, but came up empty thus far. Just knowing the rubs are there is enough though.....

Those "low spots" may be ideal places to mix in a little clay to the soil or put down a liner and turn them into water holes.....even if they are not that big. Also helps add to the wildlife diversity of that area as well.

Good luck with whatever you decide on.
 
What I did on all my switch that was spring planted was worked in early fall,plant winter wheat and then sprayed wheat gly in next late feb-march then drill switch.If frost seeding I exposed bare ground as much as I could and waited until good chance of snow and broadcasted.You don't know if it will come up but it will.then I usually mow about a ft tall for first year.I can drill switch with my Kasco versa drill so you should be able to either drill or broadcast easily.I have preached the sea of grass issue and agree with putting in areas of shrubs,cedars and trees.With some planning you can mow around these areas if you decide to burn.I started haying sections every year so I don't have to burn to get rid of thatch.
 
20170307_095631_resized.jpg Frost seeding worked perfectly for me. If you're going to put the piece into a food plot this year, I'd be somewhat concerned about it possibly being a little weedy/grassy come next spring. The deader you have it the better the chance is for success I think.

Mine had it's 3rd growing season this year. It will never be burned, only mowed. I mixed 2 lb of Kanlow with the CIR, and some clumps are 9' tall. In this pic the camera is head high.
 

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Wow, thank you Tree Spud! I think you just saved me a lot of time and effort.

John

Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk

Hey John, Bill and others shared a bunch of good stuff that helped me in the thread I started on switch grass and that led me to more research and gathering what I found on a note pad. As I said, i can't take credit for creating the info, but thought sharing would help others like some helped me.

One of the sites where there is a bunch of good info that Paul Knox, aka "Lickcreek", shared a tremendous wealth of his knowledge is the Iowa Whitetail forum. he was known as Dbltree over there. The USDA/NRCS data sheets on each variety are helpful also. Below are some links that could be helpful ...

https://www.iowawhitetail.com/forum/threads/switchgrass.13575/

https://www.nrcs.usda.gov/Internet/FSE_PLANTMATERIALS/publications/mopmcrb11259.pdf

https://www.nrcs.usda.gov/Internet/FSE_PLANTMATERIALS/publications/ndpmcrb11304.pdf

.
 
This is an older thread but seems as good as place as any to get some opinions.

Now I have read Paul’s switchgrass thread front to back on the IWF a few times. I mostly followed what he suggested except for the OustXP portion the fall before.

The trouble is I had a 7 acre switchgrass failure. I had a great kill the fall before. Broadcast 5-6 lbs an acre of CIR and Kanlow in January. Two spring sprayings of glyphosate. I also had Atrizine and Simizine sprayed in early May. The end result was a beautiful field of Foxtail. It literally looks like I planted foxtail. I have patches of switch in the foxtail and some of the Kanlow is 6’ tall already. But overall a failure.

I have since decided that I no longer want a field of switchgrass but a 50’ by 1100’ border/buffer for a food plot is what I would like. The outside border of the food plot is a single row of cedars, then a single row of shrubs, and then there will be a 50’ wide section of switchgrass, followed by 200’ of natural regeneration, and then willows on the outside near the road.

Now for the opinions. This 50’ section I am referring to for the plot border has a decent amount of switch in it already. Most of it for first year growth is in the 4-6’ range. But there is also a decent amount of foxtail. When ecexatly does this switch go dormant?

My plan once the switch goes dormant is to mow it all down in the 50 x 1100’ area. I plan to mow it several times to make sure I get it good and chopped up. This is also going to release a million foxtail seeds. I would also like to seed additional switch into this strip as a filler once the foxtail is gone. I can either reseed prior to mowing or after. Before seems like a better option to me. But then the plan is to spray OustXP (something I read on the IWF) to eliminate next years foxtail crop. I read it has no effect on established switch but can’t find anything on switch seeds themselves.

The Atrizine route didn’t work for me probably because they didn’t spray enough. I do believe Paul mentioned that if you spray the legal limit you were wasting your time. So I will be using timely glyphosate sprayings and a heavy dose of Simizine as an alternative. I have had great success using throw and mow and really feel like those principles can be applied here also. That existing switch and mulch will cover the seed plus 6 months of rain/snow and soil heaving I have no concerns about germination. What are some opinions on the plan? Just for a visual this switchgrass border snakes it’s way through the field and plot literally creating tons of edge. Once the shrubs and cedars are establish this should be a browse super highway. The plot and browse will cover about 2.5 acres and should create what I hope to be the ultimate destination spot.
 
I'm hardly a switch expert, but I do have a small patch of mixed warm season grass. I can't even remember the varieties but it's a mix that I got from Ernst Seed. a switch variety, big bluestem, and Indian grass makes up most of it. It's about 6 years old and grows to almost 7 feet each summer. It's mostly brown by now, so I'd say it begins to go dormant in late Aug.

I'm probably not answering your questions, but here's the observations I have about mine...
It's a great buffer between my home and my largest plot. Deer are much more comfortable utilizing it in daylight hours since it screens the house from the plot. Even our oldest bucks are in the plot well before dark.
Does love to bed and fawn in my small patch. It's amazing how tolerant they are of me me out in the yard when they are bedded in there. I was outside the other day playing with my new tree saddle, climbing up and down trees, shooting my bow, clanking gear, etc. I was upwind of the switch and does laid in there the whole time. They must have been getting a good education watching me climb trees!

My switch is also being invaded by Japanese Stitgrass. I have no idea how I can eradicate the JSG without killing the switch. JSG is definitely becoming a major issue in a lot of areas. It can be dealt with in broadleaf plots, but I'm not sure what can be done about it in warm season grasses.
Canada Thistle also establishes in switch. It doesn't take it over, but it hides in there and will spread from the switch into the plots. I'm convinced that CT cannot be completely eradicated, but as long as it has an adjacent area to hide, then it will continue to try to spread into plots via their complex root system. It's a yearly battle battle spot spraying the CT that spreads out from the switch. My clover would be taken over by CT if I didn't keep up the continuous fight.
I'm glad I have my switch, but it ain't perfect. There are up sides and down sides to the stuff...in my case, the good outweighs the bad.
 
Thx Tap how big is your “small patch”? I have a 10 acre switch field going in right on the border of my property that will only add to the draw on this field.
 
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