First, get the lime right. How big is the plot? Did you add 1,400 lbs or 1,400 lbs/ac? This is way more important than fertilizer. I'm having a hard time reading the photo, so if that information is on there, I missed it. Lime will take time to work. With a pH of 5.4, you will need a lot more than 1,400 lbs/ac. I have soil with that pH and it takes between 3 and 4 tons/ac to get it into the 6s. If your plot is tiny, the 1400 lbs (not lbs/ac) may be ok. I'd calculate the lbs/ac and see if you are in the 3 to 4 tons/ac range. You may need multiple application of lime. In my area, they say not to add more than about 3 tons in a single application, but it will depend on your soil type.
I'm not sure I would waste money on fertilizer depending on your soil type. I'd skip the WW and replace it with WR. It takes time for lime to amend the soil and with a pH of 5.4 uptake of the fertilizer will be limited by the pH. WR will grow in poor pH infertile soil. At this point, I'd be more focused on soil than deer. The crops that benefit the soil are good deer crops. The first thing to consider is doing no harm. Minimize tillage. Don't go more than 1" deep or use Throw and Mow. It looks like you have good OM and you don't want to lose that by introducing oxygen into the soil. That good OM is more important than fertilizer in nutrient cycling.
Adding fertilizer won't hurt and may help somewhat, but it is much less important now than adjusting pH. If you add fertilizer, completely ignore N. Focus on P and K. Depending on what fertilizer your coop is using, you will likely get some N by default. Choose MAP over DAP if they have it to achieve your P requirement. For most of the deer crops we plant in the fall, N is highly over-rated and it is not tested in most soil tests. Any N recommendation comes from the crop needs. In some of the better tests, they will ask about previous legume crops and yield to calculated banked N, but most N recommendations are way high for food plots.
Soil recommendations are generally focused on farmers that are planting monocultures, removing nutrients by harvesting, and trying to maximize yield. This doesn't mesh with food plotting. While soil testing and fertilizer recommendations are a reasonable place to start for someone new to food plotting, over the years, I've found that by building OM and selecting smart mixes or rotations, improved nutrient cycling significantly reduces fertilizer requirements.
Thanks,
Jack
