Root trapper bags

Wny Hunter

A good 3 year old buck
Any good tips as far as potting soil mix for apple trees in these bags? I ordered 8 trees from St. Lawrence nursery and only have room to put 3 trees in the ground as of now ( I am having my hunting property logged and opening up a 3 acre area for a apple orchard/food plot). I have the 7 gallon bags. I will need to keep the trees in my backyard till spring of 2021.
 
I used half miracle grow and half topsoil. Seems to be working.
 
I blend what I have ... usually some miracle grow, peat moss, top soil and if its not frozen sometimes I get composted soil from the city dump for free. I just make a nice blend that has a decent amount of each - miracle grow is mostly peat moss so I keep that in mind when Im blending in with the added straight peat moss. There are a few mixes others use that I have seen on the forum. I think as long as you have a good soil mix that will provide both drainage and nutrients you will be fine. Stay away from too much clay or to much sand. If you can (not always possible) know where your top soil is coming from just to make sure there is no residue chemical/herbicide carry over.
 
If you are trying to do root pruning, you want a "chunky" mix. When a root tip is trapped by the material inside the bag, it can't circle or j-hook. This stimulates the root to branch upstream. Most of this branching occurs in the 1st 4" from where the root is trapped. That is why root pruning requires a series of containers. When working with apples, we are generally using clonal root stock so there is no tap root. This let's us skip the first stage of 18s which are intended to prune the tap root. So, you are looking for root trapper bags that allow roughly 4" of growth in all directions on the roots. This is sort of guess work when dealing with clonal rootstock but you get the concept.

Roottrapper bags (or root pruning containers in general) allow for a much larger tree above ground than you would expect for the container size. This is because of the dense fibrous efficient root ball they create. Here is where the mix comes in. Some mixes are very dense and don't offer much area for the roots to fill. A "chunky" mix creates a lot of voids in the mix. These voids create space for the root system to develop. One example of this is using a different kind of root pruning container like a Root builder II that uses air pruning instead of trapping. When I first transplant into one of these and water it, the water runs very quickly through the well drained mix and it doesn't take long to see it coming out the lower holes. After the tree has been growing in one of these containers for quite a while sand is near ready for transplant, it becomes very difficult to top water. You put water in the top and have to wait for it to soak in. You then add more water and wait again. After repeating this process over and over, eventually you see water running out the lower holes. Why? because all of those voids were filled by the dense root ball.

To get more to a direct answer. For very small root pruning containers like 18s, I use straight promix. The containers are so small that adding chunky material beyond the normal perlite and vermiculite in the mix can be a problem. Once I get to 1 gal containers or larger, I use promix as my base. Lately, I've been using about 1/3 promix. To make the mix more chunky I'll add about 1/3 wood chips. I've used mini pine bark chips from lowes, but I recently had some trees taken down and chipped so I've used those. The last third I use a mix of perlite and compost from my yard.

However you get there, you want some chunkiness to the mix so there are plenty of voids for the roots to fill. One note of caution: The chunkier the mix, the more frequently I need to water. The more well drained the mix, the faster it dries out. My trees love this frequent drenching and drying out, especially chestnuts that don't like wet feet.

This is not to say other finer mixes won't work. They just won't maximize root development like a chunky mix.

This light mix can create an issue in some soils like mine, heavy clay. You can actually create a pool by planting this kind of amendment into heavy clay soil. The roots can drown in wet weather and dry out in dry weather. I've developed a good planting technique for planting rootmaker trees in heavy clay. I've written about it in a number of threads. If you need it and can't find it, let me know and I'll try to search for it.

Thanks,

Jack
 
Any good tips as far as potting soil mix for apple trees in these bags? I ordered 8 trees from St. Lawrence nursery and only have room to put 3 trees in the ground as of now ( I am having my hunting property logged and opening up a 3 acre area for a apple orchard/food plot). I have the 7 gallon bags. I will need to keep the trees in my backyard till spring of 2021.

I reached out to Dr. Carl Whitcomb at RootMaker a few years ago. He recommends a 3-1-1 mixture containing:

  • 3 parts ground (ground through 1" screen) pine bark.
  • 1 part peat.
  • 1 part coarse concrete sand.
While I'd recommend planting them immediately as a first choice, this method did work for me. One thing to keep in mind is that daily watering is recommended/required during the summer months. This planting medium is not soil and will dry out quickly in an above ground air pruning pot or grow bag.
 
I reached out to Dr. Carl Whitcomb at RootMaker a few years ago. He recommends a 3-1-1 mixture containing:

  • 3 parts ground (ground through 1" screen) pine bark.
  • 1 part peat.
  • 1 part coarse concrete sand.
While I'd recommend planting them immediately as a first choice, this method did work for me. One thing to keep in mind is that daily watering is recommended/required during the summer months. This planting medium is not soil and will dry out quickly in an above ground air pruning pot or grow bag.

He also had a mix he used for trees in one of his papers. As I recall, the main purpose of the sand was to give the mix a little weight so the trees did not blow over. I played with adding sand but with my setup, trees blowing over is not an issue so I don't use it/ The ground pine bark achieves the chunkiness.

Thanks,

Jack
 
I reached out to Dr. Carl Whitcomb at RootMaker a few years ago. He recommends a 3-1-1 mixture containing:

  • 3 parts ground (ground through 1" screen) pine bark.
  • 1 part peat.
  • 1 part coarse concrete sand.
While I'd recommend planting them immediately as a first choice, this method did work for me. One thing to keep in mind is that daily watering is recommended/required during the summer months. This planting medium is not soil and will dry out quickly in an above ground air pruning pot or grow bag.
Thats what i use when I go to 1 gal bags from RM 18's. I wasn't going to use the RM18's this year but I already have 2 flat of chestnuts and persimmons going in them so I guess I will. Im thinking about starting to use calcined clay to add more chunkiness instead of sand though, just to make more space for roots to fill and air prune. Anyone using calcined or vitrified clay?
 
Thats what i use when I go to 1 gal bags from RM 18's. I wasn't going to use the RM18's this year but I already have 2 flat of chestnuts and persimmons going in them so I guess I will. Im thinking about starting to use calcined clay to add more chunkiness instead of sand though, just to make more space for roots to fill and air prune. Anyone using calcined or vitrified clay?

I have not, but the sand is not what adds the "chunkiness", it is the pine bark nuggets.

Thanks,

Jack
 
Yeah I know but I’m thinking the clay particles will replace the sand and end up adding more air space and surface area for nutrients and water. Similar to perlite except it’s $10 -12 bag for 50 lbs. I sell it to baseball & softball fields.
Infield conditioner.
 
I went to a nursery and bought the same mix they were using for potting apple trees. It was 54% composted pine bark fines, 18% sphagnum peat moss, 16% rice hulls, and 12% masonry sand. I had planned to use 3-1-1, but this was simply faster and easier for me. They'll be surrounded by masonry sand once I put them in my "soil" here this fall.
 
Yeah I know but I’m thinking the clay particles will replace the sand and end up adding more air space and surface area for nutrients and water. Similar to perlite except it’s $10 -12 bag for 50 lbs. I sell it to baseball & softball fields.
Infield conditioner.

If you objective is to add weight to the mix so the containers don't blow over, they clay may fill the same function. Sand does not add air space is the large particle components that provide that.

Thanks,

Jack
 
Thanx for the assistance . Trees arrived today, so I’m heading out to get my soil mix together
 
Where are you guys buying pine bark fines?
 
Where are you guys buying pine bark fines?

I'm not using fines, but I'm only mixing for larger containers. For 18s, I just use straight promix. I just used pine bark nuggets from lowes at first. They worked great and the mix was very well drained. Lately I've been using wood chips from some trees I had taken down at the house. Perhaps others can give you a lead on pine bark fines.

Thanks,

jack
 
Just curious why you ordered more trees than you had room for or wasn’t this planned. I probably would have waited
 
Just curious why you ordered more trees than you had room for or wasn’t this planned. I probably would have waited

I wish someone would ask me this before I place my order every year! Planting trees is exciting stuff, easy to over order.


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Just curious why you ordered more trees than you had room for or wasn’t this planned. I probably would have waited

Charman, its something like this.......

......... If you order more trees than you have room or plans for.......you might be a habitat guy.......

bill
 
My problem isn't ordering more trees than I have room to plant. It is growing more than I have time and money to plant and maintain!
 
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