Planting Dunstan trees.(questions)

The latest ACF magazine mentions that chestnuts give the best growth when they receive 30% shade. More than double the growth than chestnuts in full sun.

I have several of the 3 gal Dunstans from Walmart in the ground now for at least 3 years. Mine are doing better in shade. I have one in direct full sun that hasn't grown much at all. I have another one that gets a touch of morning sun but almost all shade and it's doing the best of all of them.
 
The shade/growth rate/die back information is very useful to those of us who are just beginning to experiment with chestnuts - thanks! I direct seeded all of my chestnuts; some in final locations and 15-20 in half gallon mike cartons for transplanting this fall. I used cages rather than tubes; I believe they don't jump for the sky but grow with bigger caliper in relation to height. This thread prevented me from planting all of them in high sun areas; I assumed they did better in full sun. Now, I will plant some in direct sun, partial sun and low sun conditions. Over time we'll find out the role of sunshine on both growth, winter dieback and mast production. I'd hate to put them all in low sun conditions only to end up with hearty trees thar produce little mast.
 
The shade/growth rate/die back information is very useful to those of us who are just beginning to experiment with chestnuts - thanks! I direct seeded all of my chestnuts; some in final locations and 15-20 in half gallon mike cartons for transplanting this fall. I used cages rather than tubes; I believe they don't jump for the sky but grow with bigger caliper in relation to height. This thread prevented me from planting all of them in high sun areas; I assumed they did better in full sun. Now, I will plant some in direct sun, partial sun and low sun conditions. Over time we'll find out the role of sunshine on both growth, winter dieback and mast production. I'd hate to put them all in low sun conditions only to end up with hearty trees thar produce little mast.

OakSeeds, Of the 15 Chinese Chestnuts I planted last year, the group that receives the most sun are doing the best - about 12-15 inches of additional growth. I did have dieback over the winter, but they have overcome the setback. The best group was at about 6 ft in height a week ago.
Best of luck!
 
Here's a photo from a few weeks ago of the group that is growing the best for me. These are planted on a south facing hill side, positioned within a wide gap between pine trees:

Chestnut7-26.jpg
 
Those are growing great 2ndHand. That will be a nice orchard in a few years.

Thanks NHM - I have planted about dozen Dunstan in the same area this spring - most were direct planting from 18 cell tray. I can see that they are growing (viewable through the tube) but its starting to get pretty dry in my area with not much chance for rain in the extended period. Still have a couple dozen at home to plant this fall. Looking forward to see nuts on these trees. This grove will be viewable from a tree stand. I have added 3 crab apples and a couple of White Oaks that I grew from seed this year and a pumpkin patch..:)...Enjoy the weekend!
 
So guys are getting winter die back? Are these things worth growing in zone 4a? I was going to make chestnuts this winter's tree to start from seed. I seen a lot of zone 5 trees and shrubs succumb to last years winter. I don't want to baby these things from seed to have die back. I've got enough things working against me already.
 
So guys are getting winter die back? Are these things worth growing in zone 4a? I was going to make chestnuts this winter's tree to start from seed. I seen a lot of zone 5 trees and shrubs succumb to last years winter. I don't want to baby these things from seed to have die back. I've got enough things working against me already.

My property is in zone 4a, I live 2+ hours away - This is my first year with Dunstan's, so I don't have history with how they will handle the winter, but the 15 Chinese Chestnuts (purchased from Red fern) all survived last year's winter. As previously mentioned, they all had dieback, which could have been caused in part by me using fertilizer too late into the summer before planting them in October. All were placed in 5 ft tubes with a 3x3 mat of Lumite type material - then a small amount of pea gravel. Since I live 2 hours away, I am not able to baby these. All have now all reached the top of the 5 ft tube with many in the 6+ foot range. Time will tell, but I have enjoyed the process. It will be interesting to see if this winter brings additional dieback, if that is the case, I would not recommend planting. My guess is that they will do fine.
 
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That's what I was kinda thinking. I've got a spot where I removed some 100 year old black locust. It's on a steep east facing slope adjacent to a small food plot. The trees would be somewhat protected from the wind by the terrain.
Technically I'm 4b, and my second property is right on the border in 5a. I am somewhat skeptical of the exact zone borders anyway, because last year zone 5 trees got knocked out right on the border of 4b/5a. I prefer to play it safe and tell myself I'm in 4a.
 
Here are what mine look like today. I got to figure out where to store these for the winter.

IMG_20141026_175457_068_zpsmdr2tajr.jpg


IMG_20141026_175448_415_zpsomdneqea.jpg
 
My dad had grown some Chinese Chestnuts that are doing fairly well in my area. does anyone know how these compare to them for being cold hardy?
 
Very few came out of the tubes this year, seemed to just stand still. The ones that did had there leaves chewed on by something. Bugs, deer, who knows!
Japanese beetles seem to love mine. A bit of Sevin takes care of it. FWIW, as I know a lot of you guys are colder than this, but my Dunstans had no dieback with a low of -22 that I know of. Many nights < -10. Both the potted and bareroots really put on the growth this year. Bareroots 3rd summer, and potted's 2nd. Hoping for blossoms next year.
 
I use 5' concrete wire around mine, about 3' in diameter. Been not putting T posts to hold them in place, but will change, the deer tip over the cages and strip the trees.
 
What are you guys using for spacing on them?
 
What are you guys using for spacing on them?
I did 11 paces between trees. In a straight line the length of a field.Wish I would have kept them closer together. I think I'm gonna go back this spring an plant a tree between each one. As stated above if they beging to crowd each other down the Road I will thin them or remove trees if need be. But it will be a long time before that happens. After adding trees this spring I will have CN trees from chestnut hill, native nursery, chestnut ridge, an some Chinese from Thunter. It will be interesting to see if their is much difference in these trees form, longevity an nut production.
 
I haven't planted any c-nuts, but am considering trying some. What kind of growth can I expect from Chinese c-nuts in say, 5 yrs.? ( Old field location in Northern Pa. ) Are Chinese a safer bet (survival ) for success than Dunstans?
 
I haven't planted any c-nuts, but am considering trying some. What kind of growth can I expect from Chinese c-nuts in say, 5 yrs.? ( Old field location in Northern Pa. ) Are Chinese a safer bet (survival ) for success than Dunstans?

They left you hangin. Did you ever plant some chestnuts?
 
I don't plant chestnuts and fruit trees in tubes.Oaks alway get planted in tubes and I always use vented.
 
Paul Knox wrote about this strategy in his classic thread (are any of them not?)on tree planting

He felt that tubes predisposed to fungus,root rot,etc on fruit trees

He did recommend them for oaks

bill
 
That's been my limited experience also. Tubes have been very useful for oaks. Not so much for chestnuts.
 
They left you hangin. Did you ever plant some chestnuts?
Yes. I planted 4 Chinese chestnut trees at camp. We lost one to mice/voles that tunneled deep to chew the roots. The other 3 are growing pretty well so far. They're putting on limbs nicely.
 
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