Organic amendments. NPK values and everything else

Rally1148

5 year old buck +
Hey all, so I found this neat paper that listed a lot of handy stuff. It's got a lot of info on the benefits of each type of amendment (manures included), and what the +'s and -'s are. If you skip to the last few pages, you can leave out a lot of reading. I'm using it to help on my new garden beds where I'll be raising my own transplants for a year or two, and then I'll be using it on my apple trees. Fert that lasts for a few months, and is in response to microbial activity seems like a win for fruit trees as well! It looks like oak leaves and horse manure is a pretty good combo!

Here's the link!http://www.ctahr.hawaii.edu/oc/freepubs/pdf/pnm15.pdf
 
I'm getting a PDF error that the file cannot be opened. Just me?
 
Worked for me on an iPad.

Good stuff. It makes me wonder if I went overboard on the wood ashes from my fireplace.
 
I'm getting a PDF error that the file cannot be opened. Just me?

It IS a pdf, but idk about the error. Depending on your setup, it's probably a browser or a program error. I'll try to find another link of it.
 
That worked.
 
One of the biggest things was the "other nutrients" column on the average plant food chart. It still gives the basic stuff.
That worked.


I found it pretty useful as to how to amend some REALLY poor soil (sandy clay dry, formerly near a septic tank). I just need to grow plants there (ninebark, some oaks in the in-ground root trapper bags) over the summer. We've got a garden tiller that'll go down maybe near a foot. I'm figuring on aged horse manure, partially decomposed oak leaves, a handful of pellet lime, and some blood meal. I'll till it in this weekend, and then transplant (they're in pots now) in a week or so.
 
Good read. I haven't seen a comprehensive breakdown analysis of different organic fertilizers like that. Seems like it could get tricky depending on what your soil needs, what you've already got, and what you're putting on.
 
Good read. I haven't seen a comprehensive breakdown analysis of different organic fertilizers like that. Seems like it could get tricky depending on what your soil needs, what you've already got, and what you're putting on.

I think I'd stick with manure if I were doing an entire plot. I'm just doing a small-medium sized garden (20-50 plants), and for use around my plantings. It's certainly a better deal than oscmacote, or any other "time release", and much better for the soil. I think it'd be great if I were able to get to using mostly organic fertilizers (organic used in a loose sense here). I just always feel like I'm putting out bad stuff when I spread fert. If it burns my skin, what the heck does it do to the soil and the stuff in it that respires through its skin?!? If I were a farmer, and I was counting on making money on my crops, it'd be different as far as having leeway with my productivity and/or the time transitioning to being and sustaining organic practices, but I'm just doing this stuff to learn and to have fun! For natives and other plants (apples, dunstans, etc...) that have a pretty long growing season, it almost seems to make more sense to use this stuff that'll release it's nutrients over the course of a few months, and in response to soil temps.

As far as being careful about what we've already put in, I almost see it as an advantage! Lots of what we spread gets leached away in a few weeks, it'd be great to have a steady supply of NPK throughout the season. Think about, in the long term, how much we spread lime vs. fertilizer. Long term, it might a lot more sense to build up a good soil structure and apply mulches or OM each year and allow your nutrients to build up, vs. applying urea and the other stuff in high amounts each season. It's certainly an interesting topic.

Again, it's much easier to experiment with this stuff when we're growing things for deer than if I were trying to feed my family on my corn harvest.
 
When you add organic fertilizer you are always adding at least a small amount of OM. OM will help hold the nutrient cations and not let them leach as readily, thus you will maintain your ph levels and nutrient levels for a longer period of time.
 
Great resource BTW! Thanks Rally. I have a somewhat similar publication buried somewhere in my hard drive and it goes even further than this to show how much a given fertilizer can increase or decrease the ph of the soil. I used it a lot in the past for fertilizer comparisons for our sandy, low ph soil, the trouble was in most cases the local coop didn't carry the stuff I would have preferred to apply. Some of the fertilizers on the list not only add the N, P, K, or other nutrients, they also raised the ph, which is win-win if you have low ph to begin with. Many synthetic fertilizers, such as urea lower ph considerably.
 
Attached is the original PDF.... I downloaded it, and re-uploaded it here.

-John
 

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Great resource BTW! Thanks Rally. I have a somewhat similar publication buried somewhere in my hard drive and it goes even further than this to show how much a given fertilizer can increase or decrease the ph of the soil. I used it a lot in the past for fertilizer comparisons for our sandy, low ph soil, the trouble was in most cases the local coop didn't carry the stuff I would have preferred to apply. Some of the fertilizers on the list not only add the N, P, K, or other nutrients, they also raised the ph, which is win-win if you have low ph to begin with. Many synthetic fertilizers, such as urea lower ph considerably.

I'd seen similar resources on the other site, but when I found this one I really liked the fact that it had a nice little chart with the values. Unless you could buy it bulk, bonemeal bloodmeal etc... would be SUPER expensive to bring all of your levels up, but I think they'd be pretty manageable to maintain levels, especially in a garden setting.

As far as the pH goes, I've never tested my plot professionally. The home-owners kits with the little pills put it somewhere between 5.5 and 7, which for my needs is adequate. Brassicas, cereals, peas, and clovers aren't too picky, and I've never had much of a problem. I've never really applied much fert, so I don't worry TOO much about driving the pH down. Last year was the most I've applied in the last 5 or so years, and it was 2 bags of 20-20-20 and 2 of 10-10-10. I know it's A LOT less than most people when they plant grains or brassicas.

I digress... I thought it was a pretty cool paper. Even though my interest in biology is larger scale systems, the more I research the more I'm amazed at all of the little feedback cycles that we have with our usage of fertilizers and lime. Heavy fertilizers, will lots of times acidify soils, which means you need more lime. Or there might be a pH problem, but the plants show deficiencies.. rather than correct the pH, lots of people just dump more nutrients or fertilizers. After growing in containers (ninebark and oaks) it's easy to see how there are so many people, generally homeowners, that overuse fertilizers, assuming or being completely unaware of the pH problems). I think that liquid miracle grow is generally 20-20-20, which is a crazy high concentration. Pair that with some appealing marketing, and you've got lots of people using lots of synthetics. Call me a hippie if ya want, but I find the "challenge" of keeping everything as input free, or using more environmentally sustainable inputs, as possible is pretty rewarding. :)

As far as building OM, my top 8 inches are nice pond muck. I'd much rather build down past that 8 inches, or even bring up some sand to make a nice loamy 16 inches. I'm not too worried about my yield, but getting some more variability in what I'm able to plant would be nice.
 
That's probably the first time I've ever heard someone wanting to pull their subsoil to the surface to help their topsoil! LOL! But in that case it does somewhat make sense, as the added sand would improve the poor drainage of that muck topsoil.
 
That's probably the first time I've ever heard someone wanting to pull their subsoil to the surface to help their topsoil! LOL! But in that case it does somewhat make sense, as the added sand would improve the poor drainage of that muck topsoil.

I've always had people tell me I'm crazy when I say that I want to work my topsoil down. I'd just rather have twice as much well balanced "average" soil than have just 5-8 inches of muck.
 
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