New barn, it's hot! Help
- Thread starter LuckyIL
- Start date
j-bird
Moderator
Simply having a way for the hot air to escape will help - most folks have vents in the gable ends to allow the rising hot air to escape. Other things like an attic fan (similar to what you described) will help. Just remember you need air flow! You want to work with nature if you can - let the hot air rise and escape and help ground level temps by bringing cooler air which is lowest to the ground in. That what those square things are on top of old barns - vents. Do an internet search for barn vents or the like and you should find something. Good luck and don't cook yourself!
j-bird
Moderator
I didn't mean to imply it would be cool - it will help however. Handling hay in July in the mound you will sweat yor butt off regardless. Circulation however will help - regardless of what you have in your barn. I have a 40 x 60 as well, but the entire south (gable) end opens up (hanger door that hinges horizontally that is large enough that we pull the combine in head and all) and we use some of the large "hog barn" fans as well thatyou can get at farm type stores.
Bowsnbucks
5 year old buck +
How about a whole-house exhaust fan or two? They make ones to install in the roof itself and ones to install at the gable ends. They're big - and move a lot of air.
Jim Timber
5 year old buck +
They're called power attic vents in that application. I use them on my house and shop. Makes a significant difference in attic temps vs convection alone.
Jim Timber
5 year old buck +
I've got a whole house fan in my shop which is relayed to turn the power attic vent on whenever the WHF is turned on. I use it for an exhaust fan while welding, but it does work well to pull the heat out before I fire up the AC.
The power attic vent is thermostatically controlled to come on at 85. Surprisingly, it doesn't run all the time in the summer. It's able to draw the attic down to ambient temps despite the asphalt shingles.
I've measured 134F 3.5" from the underside of the attic's sheathing with traditional convection venting. That's hot enough to replace your water heater!
The power attic vent is thermostatically controlled to come on at 85. Surprisingly, it doesn't run all the time in the summer. It's able to draw the attic down to ambient temps despite the asphalt shingles.
I've measured 134F 3.5" from the underside of the attic's sheathing with traditional convection venting. That's hot enough to replace your water heater!
j-bird
Moderator
Not that it's a big deal but I mis-spoke earlier. My shop building is 50 x 60 (I measured it when I took the pics). Concrete approach and floor, mechanics pit, 2 man doors and 2 windows. It is roughly 15' clear height inside as well.
The "door" is 40' wide and opens to 15'. Open the windows and man doors an we get plenty of air flow! Building was originally constructed to house a small (piper super cub aircraft). Don't ask what it all cost - I don't know. I simply bought the property - building and all.
The "door" is 40' wide and opens to 15'. Open the windows and man doors an we get plenty of air flow! Building was originally constructed to house a small (piper super cub aircraft). Don't ask what it all cost - I don't know. I simply bought the property - building and all.
j-bird
Moderator
I didn't choose the builder or the specs. Bought the brother-in-laws half of the farm a few years ago. He built the building for his plane (he had expensive hobbies back then) several years prior to that. Makes one hell of a storage building is all I know. When it gets warm we open up the large door and if that doesn't work a large fan for the hog barn works great too. Just have to watch those windy days - that door turns into a nice big sail!
Jim Timber
5 year old buck +
I'm in love. lol I don't need the plane door, but the rest of it is just about perfect for what I want.
