Native Hunter Apples 2023

Wow what variety is that !
It's Striped June, aka Margaret. Now that Big Horse Creek Farm has stopped selling trees, I'm not aware of anyone currently selling this variety. However, they still list it on their website as one they sell scion wood for. Hence, a person could graft their own Striped June by getting scion wood from them.
 
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Apple goals!


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Edit - I just found Margaret listed as one of their varieties on Century Farm Orchards that they sell as grafted trees.
 
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Illinois Everbearing Mulberry beginning to ripen. This picture illustrates how the tree got its name - due to bearing over a long period of time. Black = ripe and ready to eat, Red = ripe in a few days and Green = weeks from being ripe.

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Just picked one of these up. It's repotted and will be fall planted since it's a little late for me to plant. Looking forward to seeing how it does, and I'm already thinking of air layering in the future.
 
This is the same tree today after having roughly 12 gallons of apples already removed from it.
Leaves look pretty clean. Do you do any spraying on it?? Great tree, regardless!!
 
Leaves look pretty clean. Do you do any spraying on it?? Great tree, regardless!!
No, it hasn't been sprayed, and that variety is one of the cleanest growing you will find anywhere. All of the apples I will post in this thread will be no spray. Next two coming up (unless I'm forgetting one) are Bevan's Favorite and then Summer Champion.... You will see small amounts of CAR on both of them, but not enough to matter - and both seem to be highly resistant to FB.
 
My next apple to ripen will be Bevan's Favorite, and I'm going to go ahead and post pictures of it. I would rate the crop this year below average, but still several nice apples. It ripens about 1-2 weeks after Striped June, and resembles it in size and looks. However, where Striped June shines as a cooking apple, Bevan's Favorite is really a good fresh eating apple, considering how early it is. Bevan's has good disease resistance and is easy to grow no spray.


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Looks great. I added a Bevan’s Favorite to my Century Farms order this year based partly on your feedback and success with it.

I started off focusing mainly on late dropping varieties, but am now trying to fill the calendar with as many ripening times as possible.
 
No, it hasn't been sprayed, and that variety is one of the cleanest growing you will find anywhere. All of the apples I will post in this thread will be no spray. Next two coming up (unless I'm forgetting one) are Bevan's Favorite and then Summer Champion.... You will see small amounts of CAR on both of them, but not enough to matter - and both seem to be highly resistant to FB.
Thanks for this info, Native.
 
Native - do you not even spray during dormant season? I only have two large producing apple trees, with several more coming on - but I have lost all the apples on them to bitter rot some years
 
Native - do you not even spray during dormant season? I only have two large producing apple trees, with several more coming on - but I have lost all the apples on them to bitter rot some years
No, I don’t spray any apples at any time. I’ve had a few varieties that didn’t work out. When that happens I topwork them to something that does work and move on.

I was just noticing a new variety I was trying out that is eat up with CAR this year. Next year it becomes a Yates and problem solved.
 
No, I don’t spray any apples at any time. I’ve had a few varieties that didn’t work out. When that happens I topwork them to something that does work and move on.

I was just noticing a new variety I was trying out that is eat up with CAR this year. Next year it becomes a Yates and problem solved.
How do your Arkansas Black's do? I have lost every apple on a 12 yr old Arkansas Black due to bitter spot. May well be this hot humid climate I am in is just not conducive to apples.
 
How do your Arkansas Black's do? I have lost every apple on a 12 yr old Arkansas Black due to bitter spot. May well be this hot humid climate I am in is just not conducive to apples.
I was late in the game planting Arkansas Black. My oldest one is about 12 feet tall, but unfortunately on B118 rootstock, which I now despise. The storm we had on Memorial Day weekend last year laid it and some other B118 trees on the ground. I stood the AB back up and put dirt around the base. I also added bracing with T-posts. It flowered this year but did not fruit. AB seems ok with CAR resistance, but I will need to see fruit before evaluating further.
 
I was late in the game planting Arkansas Black. My oldest one is about 12 feet tall, but unfortunately on B118 rootstock, which I now despise. The storm we had on Memorial Day weekend last year laid it and some other B118 trees on the ground. I stood the AB back up and put dirt around the base. I also added bracing with T-posts. It flowered this year but did not fruit. AB seems ok with CAR resistance, but I will need to see fruit before evaluating further.
Cedar apple rust is probably my first concern. Every one of my apple trees is no farther than 60 feet from a forest predominated by cedar.
 
Cedar apple rust is probably my first concern. Every one of my apple trees is no farther than 60 feet from a forest predominated by cedar.
You can tell how a tree is going to react to CAR very soon, but most trees will not get fireblight until they flower. It generally enters the tree through the flowers. However, even after flowering starts, it could still be a few years before you will be able to judge FB resistance. This is because FB doesn't rear its ugly head ever year, and when it does it can range from lightly affecting a tree to heavily affecting it. The severity of FB can generally be tied to weather conditions. Some years are also worse than others for CAR, but not to the same extent of FB.
 
You can tell how a tree is going to react to CAR very soon, but most trees will not get fireblight until they flower. It generally enters the tree through the flowers. However, even after flowering starts, it could still be a few years before you will be able to judge FB resistance. This is because FB doesn't rear its ugly head ever year, and when it does it can range from lightly affecting a tree to heavily affecting it. The severity of FB can generally be tied to weather conditions. Some years are also worse than others for CAR, but not to the same extent of FB.
FWIW - I saw the same exact thing here on a Bradford / Redspire pear I used to have in the yard. Rainy, wetter years were worse for the FB, it seemed. Some years worse than others - probably due to weather in a given year. Dryer years, I saw much less FB / "shepherd's hooks" on that tree, which I cut down about 6 years ago. It was replaced with a DR "Sugar Tyme" crab apple tree.
 
We are still harvesting both Striped June and Bevan's Favorite. My next apple to ripen will be Summer Champion, but it is going to be another two to four weeks or so before they are ripe. While we are waiting, I want to list the young trees I have that look great but will not be bearing fruit this year due to their youth. I have high hopes for these:

Ed's Crazy Crab
Whole Season Crab
Sonofcal Applecrab
Big Dog Crab
Advent Pear
Canisteo Apple
Big 10 Apple
Turning Point Applecrab
Rifle Deer Pear
Roadkill Crab
Buckman Crab
Big Lou Crab
Sweet November Crab
Malus Pear
Candy Crab
Ruby Rush Apple
Atago Pear
Galarina Apple
All of these are growing like weeds and look very clean and healthy.
 
swampcat,

Here's a good chart about cedar apple rust and tree varieties.



Planted liberty, enterprise, and granny smith for cedar apple rust resistance. Thought Freedom would be resistant, but seeing a bit on thgat tree, nothing too bad. Droptine has a little bit of rust on it too. Got to double check my golden delicious, that get rust from what I read. My grafted rthis year kerr's don't have a any on them. Tent catepillars and cedar apple rust didn't touch my crossbow from whitetail crabs. Giving that tree a shot on antovoka up in the adirondacks zone 3 this fall. Got one in a growpot.

MY early fruit tree is pristine. They say it's good to zone 9. Granny smith is another hot area tree too. Pristine is somewhat suspectible to cedar apple rust. But, cedar apple rust is not a death sentence for a tree. Other disease can be worse on trees.

Cedar apple rust is an issue for commercial fruit growers. It does make fruit ugly. Blemish free apples get much more money than ones you have to use only for sauce or cider. Spots on the leaves do reduce that capability of a tree somewhat. If there's a tree you want and it is suspectible to cedar apple rust, it's worth trying. Highly suspectible might not be worth it. I have tree fro wildlife and tree in my backyard for me and the deer. The backyard ones will get sprayed and watered well. The ones up at camp, I do what I can when I am there.

There's a commercial orchard about a 1/2 mile from my house. They let their orchards go fallow for about 2 or 3 years after removing trees. They have a irrigation pond with cedars all around it, kinda interesting they dont bother to chop them down. I propogate cedar trees in my front yard as a privacy screen. I have a shallow soil base there ontop of shale. I do pick the orange octopuses off of them and bag then to go in the garbage.
 
swampcat,

Here's a good chart about cedar apple rust and tree varieties.



Planted liberty, enterprise, and granny smith for cedar apple rust resistance. Thought Freedom would be resistant, but seeing a bit on thgat tree, nothing too bad. Droptine has a little bit of rust on it too. Got to double check my golden delicious, that get rust from what I read. My grafted rthis year kerr's don't have a any on them. Tent catepillars and cedar apple rust didn't touch my crossbow from whitetail crabs. Giving that tree a shot on antovoka up in the adirondacks zone 3 this fall. Got one in a growpot.

MY early fruit tree is pristine. They say it's good to zone 9. Granny smith is another hot area tree too. Pristine is somewhat suspectible to cedar apple rust. But, cedar apple rust is not a death sentence for a tree. Other disease can be worse on trees.

Cedar apple rust is an issue for commercial fruit growers. It does make fruit ugly. Blemish free apples get much more money than ones you have to use only for sauce or cider. Spots on the leaves do reduce that capability of a tree somewhat. If there's a tree you want and it is suspectible to cedar apple rust, it's worth trying. Highly suspectible might not be worth it. I have tree fro wildlife and tree in my backyard for me and the deer. The backyard ones will get sprayed and watered well. The ones up at camp, I do what I can when I am there.

There's a commercial orchard about a 1/2 mile from my house. They let their orchards go fallow for about 2 or 3 years after removing trees. They have a irrigation pond with cedars all around it, kinda interesting they dont bother to chop them down. I propogate cedar trees in my front yard as a privacy screen. I have a shallow soil base there ontop of shale. I do pick the orange octopuses off of them and bag then to go in the garbage.
The apple varieties I have planted all seem to exhibit decent CAR resistance. Bitter spot is the disease most affecting my apples - as it actually affects the fruit
 
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