Morse nursery?

I asked by e-mail when updating my order. Not on their website.
 
Thanks chickenlittle I will give them a call
 
This hurts I love Morse’s website. It’s almost magical. I’ve wasted some good time reading about all the varieties.
 
This hurts I love Morse’s website. It’s almost magical. I’ve wasted some good time reading about all the varieties.

This hurts ... like thinking a prostitute loves you?
 
I hate to say anything bad about any nursery, but... I have always avoided Morse because I heard similar of experiences, in spite of hype about each tree. The only other nursery I avoid now is Burnt Ridge, based on my one-time purchase of 3 different trees. Maybe it's just me, but the root systems consisted of 2 to 3 very big roots, not the "nest" of smaller, vigorous roots I am accustomed to from Cummins, ANC and Stark Bros. These trees have been in the ground 2 years now and all are still alive, but that's about all I can say for them. My takeaway from listening to the guys here is to find a few good sources that YOU like and stick with 'em. Just my 2 cents.
 
This hurts ... like thinking a prostitute loves you?
She doesn’t? Santa isn’t real either? I am glad I decided to do some more research on them. They were on my shortlist.
 
She doesn’t? Santa isn’t real either? I am glad I decided to do some more research on them. They were on my shortlist.

Still not clear on your comment ... for many of us, Morse has been a scam ... when I committed a $600 order for what the owner told me directly were 2-3 year old transplants, I received 1st year 1" seedlings. Every one of them failed. Called Mr Bullshit directly and he refused to honor any warranty he offered.

Good luck ... love hurts!
 
Still not clear on your comment ... for many of us, Morse has been a scam ... when I committed a $600 order for what the owner told me directly were 2-3 year old transplants, I received 1st year 1" seedlings. Every one of them failed. Called Mr Bullshit directly and he refused to honor any warranty he offered.

Good luck ... love hurts!
I am glad I read the tales of woe on them. I was planning on ordering from them for next year. But after reading the issues that won’t be happening anymore. The website makes their plants sound like the magic bullet.
 
I am glad I read the tales of woe on them. I was planning on ordering from them for next year. But after reading the issues that won’t be happening anymore. The website makes their plants sound like the magic bullet.

Two years ago I planted bareroots from two other reputable nurseries, and Morses containerized root pruned trees (supposed to fruit faster). I had 100% survival on the bareroots, lost 3 out of 10 of the Morse trees. In two years, none of the surviving Morse trees have even put on what the bareroots did in year one. I suspect the containers and therefor root system are not large enough for the size of tree. BTW, as far as fruiting faster...some of my bareroots from Northern Whitetail Crabs fruited first year in the ground. Can't beat that!
 
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Rit - The magic bullet you mentioned is the one you shoot into any thought of an order for Morse. I used them once for a couple trees and that was enough to wise me up.

I've used Cummins, Adams County Nursery (ACN), and St. Lawrence Nursery (SLN) for 99.9% of our trees and have no problems with any of those 3. SLN grafts to Antonovka rootstock, which won't be a hairy, fibrous root system. Their roots look more like a couple carrots - but don't let that bother you. Those roots take about 2 to 3 years to really kick in, but when they do …… WOW !! You get a full-sized tree from Antonovka roots.
 
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Good point bows... I hope I did not throw Burnt Ridge under the bus too quickly. I saved the reciept, and confirmed I ordered M-111 rootstock, but your description of the Antonovka rootstock closely matches what I got. And the fact that they aren't doing much makes me think I oredered one thing, and got another. They have about one more year to show me something or they are getting replaced with a known commodity. Regardless, good call on the Antonovka rootstock.
 
Rit - The magic bullet you mentioned is the one you shoot into any thought of an order for Morse. I used them once for a couple trees and that was enough to wise me up.

I've used Cummins, Adams County Nursery (ACN), and St. Lawrence Nursery (SLN) for 99.9% of our trees and have no problems with any of those 3. SLN grafts to Antonovka rootstock, which won't be a hairy, fibrous root system. Their roots look more like a couple carrots - but don't let that bother you. Those roots take about 2 to 3 years to really kick in, but when they do …… WOW !! You get a full-sized tree from Antonovka roots.
Thanks for the info Bows. I am really at the point of information overload. I have been reading everything I can about fruit trees, rootstocks, etc and it’s starting to become frustrating. I’m not sure that I am any closer to knowing what I need than I was a few weeks back when I knew a little less than nothing.
 
I should say that the only 2 trees I got from Morse that are doing well are their hybrid pear and the Nova Scotia crab. The other stuff I got from them are struggling or were yanked for better trees. The hybrid pear had quite a few pears on it this year.
 
Rit - I'm not an expert on apples and crabs, but I ask questions of experts at Penn State, Purdue, Mich. State, Cornell, and guys like Maya and Appleman on this forum. ( Maya and Appleman are orchard owners. )

What's the soil like where you intend to plant - sandy or clayish-loam ?? Guys that have sandier soil on here say B-118 rootstock is a good choice for that soil type. For heavier, clayish-loamy soil, the recommended rootstock is MM-111. I got that info from the head of Penn State's fruit tree program. Those rootstocks - ( B-118 & MM-111 ) will grow trees to around 18 to 24 ft. tall, and first fruit in 4 or 5 years. Those tree sizes are typical for most wildlife planting guys. I hope this helps and doesn't add to confusion.
 
Rit - I'm not an expert on apples and crabs, but I ask questions of experts at Penn State, Purdue, Mich. State, Cornell, and guys like Maya and Appleman on this forum. ( Maya and Appleman are orchard owners. )

What's the soil like where you intend to plant - sandy or clayish-loam ?? Guys that have sandier soil on here say B-118 rootstock is a good choice for that soil type. For heavier, clayish-loamy soil, the recommended rootstock is MM-111. I got that info from the head of Penn State's fruit tree program. Those rootstocks - ( B-118 & MM-111 ) will grow trees to around 18 to 24 ft. tall, and first fruit in 4 or 5 years. Those tree sizes are typical for most wildlife planting guys. I hope this helps and doesn't add to confusion.
That helps a lot thanks. Seems different nursery’s label their rootstocks slightly different. I definitely fall into the MM-111 as I have clay loam. Now I can focus my search on varieties that have good resistance to CAR and I’ll have a good start.

I see pears are another animal. I found 3 different rootstocks for pear trees so far. I’ll have to make some phone calls and do some more research. Thanks again you have been a great help.
 
Rit - For apple DR info, try these 2 websites: https://extension.psu.edu/home-orchards-table-4-1-scab-resistant-apple-varieties and www.omafra.gov.on.ca/english/crops/facts/98-013.htm

The PSU site apples are all scab resistant, but the table lists resistance to CAR, powdery mildew, and fire blight as well.
The Canadian site lists resistance to a variety of diseases and the degree of resistance to various diseases.

I hope these sites can be of some help.
 
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