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Low pH, Low Organic Matter.

pilotpip

5 year old buck +
Got results for my first soil sample on a clover plot that was planted by the previous owner. I don't know a ton of history regarding the property (yet) but based on OnX and other satellite views, I'd guess this 2 acre plot was cleared out of an Oak flat within the last 3 years or less because it's still woods in the pics. pH is 4.4 and organic matter in the soil is low too. Phosphorus and Potassium are also very low. Within the "neighborhood, this is a stand of hardwoods in a mostly agricultural region. However, A large conservation area with heavy pressure is across the road and the closest crops are about a mile away.

My initial plan for this year is to put down a couple gallons of deergro's Plotstart product and an application of 3-18-18 fertilizer as a temporary boost while I learn the property, and get a couple other projects done to make it easier to spend time there. I realize I need to add several thousand pounds of ag lime eventually, but since the plot is established and clover is growing seemingly ok. I frost seeded about a month ago. I'll focus on that one next winter with a big addition of lime, either ag if I can get it there or Pelletized if I can't.

While I'm letting that plot "go", I have what I'd guess to be another 2-3 acres that the previous owner cleared right by the road. I need to accomplish 2 things here: First, and foremost: screen. Second, It's open and I'd like to plant something attractive to deer, turkey, and other wildlife in it. It's pretty empty dirt at the moment so I broadcast cereal rye into the open areas, with a mix of crimson clover. Along the edges I seeded the same mix of ladino and perennial red that I got from the co-op. I'm going to get a sample together next week, but for now let's assume pH is low because it's a similar situation. Recently cleared timber with low OM. I'm starting at zero.

Should I try to get some Ag (or pell) lime down, then disc or rototill to work it in, and plant something like buckwheat and more cereal rye to build OM? Personally, I'm leaning towards a disc because we have a nice walk behind rototiller I can use on a couple staging plots later. Also, my long term goal is to go no-till with minimum inputs but that's probably a tractor upgrade and several years down the road.
 
Did your soil test give you a recommendation on lime, for a 2 ac plot with a ph that low you could need 2-3 tons per acre. If you can get ag lime spread with a truck that would be the way to go and the sooner the better.
 
It did, and it was something like 2300lbs/ac. I've never been able to use ag lime and have never tried top dressing pelletized on a plot. Would it be effective to top dress it or would I lose a lot to runoff?
 
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Can u post your soil test?


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If you can get a truck in there, get ag lime on it, asap. If you are in an AG area you may be able to get a buggy with ag lime if the area won't support a big truck. You say it's a clover plot? Is anything growing at 4.4? I would save your money regarding the plot start stuff and even the fert. At that pH, not much of the fert is going to be available. Get the pH up as quick as you can and plant stuff to help the organic matter (rye).
 
If you can get a truck in there, get ag lime on it, asap. If you are in an AG area you may be able to get a buggy with ag lime if the area won't support a big truck. You say it's a clover plot? Is anything growing at 4.4? I would save your money regarding the plot start stuff and even the fert. At that pH, not much of the fert is going to be available. Get the pH up as quick as you can and plant stuff to help the organic matter (rye).
It is growing, and still was about ankle high before we got the heavy snow at the beginning of the year.

So top dressing with ag lime would be beneficial? Should I be concerned with losing it to run off? I don't really want to spend a ton of time and effort on this particular plot until I have several other projects taken care of.
 
OM at 1.3 and lime recommendations at 2300 pet acre. Actually I am jealous of the 1.3 OM as a disc lowered mine to .9. Let SD give you his recommendations.
 
If you can till it in, I’d try to put on 3000 pounds a year for two years. You’re gonna have to be careful. I’d put on 4000 calcitic and 2000 Dolomitic if you can choose.

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In the interest of learning, why do I have to be careful? Because of the traits of dolomitic having more magnesium?
 
Have to agree with others. You have a reclamation project right now. Certainly wouldn't fertlilize now as only a small portion, very small, will do anything. Soil likely locked up by Al toxicity. You can try the Deer Gro, or other like products. Even if they work to some degree, your situation will essentially be the same next yr. You need to add as much lime as you can and probably should disc it in if possible. The sooner the better. Then maybe a fall crop, but clover is still a less than ideal choice. Perhaps cereal rye as it will likely grow and help with your OM.
 
IF you're not tilling, limit yourself to 1/2 ton of lime an acre and 300lbs of triple 10 an acre if you not tusing tillage.

Plant something the deer will not destroy completely. Like rye n clover. IF you find it boring, add 1-2lbs brassicas and 20l-25lbs of oats per acre. 100-125lbs /acre of rye and 8lbs of medium red.

Plant a spring crop of 100lbs /acre of of oats and 8-10 lbs of medium red.

Early summer.... bucwheat
 
Perhaps my philosophy is different. But at a pH < 5, you will only get the benefit of 25-30% of any applied fertilizer, at best. Meaning for every $100 you spend, $70+ is wasted. That $70 would be way more advantageous if spent on lime. Seeds such as clover and brassicas, while they may germinate, will be severely limited in quality and growth. For me, these options are too costly for what your soil will allow them to be. Buckwheat is a decent option. It will grow to maybe 12-18 in, also limited by the pH, but will maybe free up some P and add a bit of OM. If it were my plot, at least $80 out of every hundred I have to spend would be on lime.
 
After you lime and disc it in, I would do a buckwheat/rye rotation this year, followed by a soil building blend next Spring. If it's really sandy soil, add some clay with the lime before you disc. I'd do a bit of pelletized lime to give a quick boost, but mostly ag lime to keep a slow-acting lime in the soil long term. Maybe throw some greensand in for long-term potassium availability.

For the soil building blend, use a diverse mix with all kinds of different types of.plants that provide different benefits. Annual clovers, buckwheat, kale, flax, sorghum, sunflower, etc. You want different kinds of root structures and plants that mine different nutrients, plus a lot of organic matter.

I wouldn't use any fertilizer at first, for the reasons mentioned above, but I think the Plotstart type boosters are a benefit to get the plants growing well. Yes, they are temporary, but if you get 20% additional growth on your food plot crops, I'd day it's worth it.

The third year, you can probably plant whatever you want. By this time, the soil should have a significant increase in pH, OM, and diverse nutrients. Do a soil test at the end of the third year to see where you stand, and form a new plan. By then, the full affect of your soil management should be clear, and you'll be able to see how your food plot grew and how the deer used it.
 
Another thing you might consider is horse manure and compost. In Norway, I can get horse manure free by the trailer load. In Ohio, I found a place that charges $40 per pickup truck load, and the guy will load it into the bed with his backhoe.

In Ohio and Indiana, compost ranges between free, for seasoned straw and horse manure mucked out from stalls, to under $100 for a pickup truck load of fine compost.

All of this I found on Facebook marketplace. You could probably just drive up and down your plot pitching compost and manure into your field. It's a cheap, easy, and quick way to get a great soil amendment onto the soil. It contains all kinds of microorganisms, bugs, and probably worms that will contribute to your overall soil health.

The horse manure I picked up had minimal straw and was aged enough that there was no odor, but still visible strands of grass. It's easy to work with and incredibly good for the soil. I once left a pile sitting by the driveway on very poor soil, and the next year, the plants grew incredibly tall and lush where the pile had been.

I use the horse manure to layer in my vegetable beds, and it just disappears in there, but the soil I dug out of a bed this Spring was black and crumbly, and full of worms. I can't say enough good things about manure. If you can manage to get a few truckloads on your field before you disc the lime in, it should do wonders to jump start the growth of whatever you plant and the overall health of the soil.
 
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In the interest of learning, why do I have to be careful? Because of the traits of dolomitic having more magnesium?

Yes. Look at your soil test ppm calcium to magnesium. As a ratio, you’re at 5.5:1. That’s pretty low. Ideal is 6.5 - 10. I went back and did the math, you could do calcitic the whole way and not fly off the high end of good.


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It did, and it was something like 2300lbs/ac. I've never been able to use ag lime and have never tried top dressing pelletized on a plot. Would it be effective to top dress it or would I lose a lot to runoff?
I have never used pellet lime but I have always top dressed ag lime and it works great that way.
 
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