http://www.sakg.co.za/portal-downloads/e9993eca-cb87-4639-8cf2-6067e007418f.pdf
“This is also why gypsum, which contains
about 20% calcium and 17% sulphur, should ONLY be used when calcium is above 60% (base saturation). But because gypsum contains sulphur, the excess sulphur and nitrogen will STRIP the soil if CALCIUM is below 60%.
Once the calcium level is above 60%, the sulphur in gypsum will strip the soil of other cations that are in excess. It’s therefore a good product to use where there is an excess of magnesium, but the calcium level is in the desirabable”
...
Getting back to the original topic.
Paragraph one directly addressed why H2Os continued implication that gypsum is a good product to randomly apply in a previously unfertilized woodlot in NY is a bad recomendation (where the CA base saturation would almost certainly be below 60, and if it werent, suggesting the use of gypsum to add Ca without any understanding of soil qualities and nutrient levels would make even less sense). In reality, he doesn’t seem to understand that it would actually have the opposite effect of what he mistakenly thought it would.
Paragraph two adresses the fallacy of his continued statements that I should use Gypsum on the soils that are the subject of the test I posted. First, (if my fields were static, which they are not) I don’t need more calcium, but if I wanted to push it I would at least want the benefit of raising my PH toward 7, also I don’t want to reduce my magnesium. (Heck...Even SD who seems to have previously sided with H20 on ever was recomending that I do the exact opposite and try to use dolomitic lime to RAISE my Mg levels.)