Let's talk Clethodim
- Thread starter SD51555
- Start date
Native Hunter
5 year old buck +
The primary use is to kill grass without harming broadleaves in a food plot. I think of it as the opposite of 24D which will harm many broadleaves but not grass. With that said, I have some setting in the basement that I plan to use in my clover plot, but have never actually used it before, so thanks for the thread. I should enjoy the responses too.
wiscwhip
5 year old buck +
Poast is a brand name of sethoxydim.
wiscwhip
5 year old buck +
Most reports are that clethodim does a better job as well, but I have no personal experience with sethoxydim/Poast, so I cannot give any side by side personal comparisons. I know I have had no complaints the times I have sprayed cleth, so I never saw a reason to switch to anything else.
phil@thesidehill
5 year old buck +
i havent used Cleth much and its been a while....but IIRC cleth requires the use of adjuvant like a Non Ionic Surfactant or Crop Oil. NIS being the better choice if you are trying to knock grass out of a planting of broadleaf varieties that may not withstand being burnt by crop oil. IIRC clover will take a decent hit of from crop oil and bounce back providing sufficient rain and lack of other heat/drought stressors.
Anyone else on this one? Its been awhile since i thought about cleth applications....i've been blessed not have a grass problem.
Anyone else on this one? Its been awhile since i thought about cleth applications....i've been blessed not have a grass problem.
Am I correct in thinking that annual mowing and overseeding with clover/burnet/chicory every few years would do as good of a job provided that you don't have a MAJOR problem?
I'm planning on putting in a long term clover, chicory and burnett that I'll drill brassicas and/or broadcast rye into each fall/August. My plan for weeds was to mow once in the summer, probably around June when I want to "terminate" the rye. Other than that I figured I'd be able to "spot treat" with gly if I get any bad spots.
Am I correct in assuming that I'll be able to do this with a relative amount of success? Do any of you have experience with something like this?
Overall, I'm trying to cut down on chemical inputs, from fert and herbicides all the way to gas. I'm not worried about a few weeds in my plots, I just want them to provide some draw all year, and a lot in the fall and winter, but there are two 10+ acre corn fields within 500 yards of my property, so with regards to main food sources, I can't compete with those.
phil@thesidehill
5 year old buck +
Yep...mowing encourages grasses...think of it like your lawn...the reason why your lawn is primarily grasses is because your disturbance regime (mowing) favors grasses.
wiscwhip
5 year old buck +
As stu said, grasses are hard to control long term with only mowing. This is mainly due to the fact that many grasses that wouldn't produce a seed head until they reached a certain height, will start to produce them at an ever lower height the more you mow them, eventually producing viable seed when only 4"-6" tall. The other problem with only mowing is that certain types of grass, like crabgrass for instance, have a low, prostrate spreading growth habit that will leave much of the plant intact with all but the lowest mowing heights. You will leave a basically mature grass plant with cutting injury that will try to produce seed heads within days after they are cut.
Steve Oehlenschlager
5 year old buck +
Clethodim works 10 times better than Poast in my opinion. I have used both and will never use Poast again. A few native wet meadow grasses (NOT SEDGES!) are a little tougher to kill, but other than that it really does a good job on grass. It also doesn't stink as bad as Poast when you apply it. I try to avoid killing grasses until after July 1st. They are much harder to kill in the early summer and if you try killing them early, they often show back up by fall. If you spray after July 1st, you generally can keep the plot clean all fall.
