Innovative ways to fertilize?

Turkey Creek

5 year old buck +
Trying to think outside of the box... has anybody come up with a innovative way to apply fertilizer to your food plots? Fertilizer costs are obviously high, if you're using a planter that does not have fertilizer boxes, has anybody found a way to side dress/ band apply fertilizer to your food plot rows? Broadcasting fertilizer seems to be awfully wasteful.
 
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I am also considering a hog tractor for the summer. Convert my wheat and rye stubble into a fertilized seed bed for fall plots, then butcher the pigs. I have a friend who raises KuneKunes and I can get them easy enough from him. My only concern is if the pig smell would deture deer?
 
I am trying to go the more natural route and not use herbicides and chemical fertilizers once I have it established. I did pay my neighbor farmer $100 to spread manure on my food plot if that is an option for you.
 
I was thinking this same thing! I’ve been incorporating my winter feeding into fertilizing some of my little “kill plots” in the woods. Pee and crap and thatch and trampling… I’m curious if it helps? I don’t see how it can hurt. Just a few days makes a difference. Imagine the manure created by 20-50 deer over a whole winter. Just something outside the box I’m using to my advantage up north here.93196DB8-3C96-423C-BC63-42BC143DD092.jpegF06EF1DD-669B-4AC5-A4F8-80F33B3266F7.jpeg28141F3E-1F47-467A-A6E6-ED517BFF4E21.jpeg765F05CE-9FDE-4479-9EBA-8517C653F156.jpeg
 
I bought Keeton seed firmers for my drill. They have tubing built in to connect drip fertilizer to apply directly in rows with planting. Haven’t hooked it up but have thought about it.
 
Fertilizer prices are coming down. What kind of soil do you have. Commercial farmers apply fertilizer more than one time a year. IN lands where you dont have a high CEC or the ability to absorb fertilizer well, like high runoff; farmer apply urea once you have some growth for the plants to absorb it.

You could use 6-24-24. The phosphorus and potassium hold in the soil longer than urea. nitrogen is in the air, the other major minerals take awhile to get out of the ground. Alot of good legumes out there, clovers, peas, vetches.

Starting off with something more mild to build the soil quality isn't a bad idea either.
 
A few atypical ways of adding nutrients that I have seen used around here:
- Let the local sewage treatment plant spread its waste on a field in spring.
- Pile all the brush from logging in a food plot and light the pile when there is lots of snow on the ground.
- Get woodchips from the road crew that cuts brush back from road edges and spread the chips.

I don't know the pros and cons of those. Those are just approaches I have seen used by others.
 
I really like that pigpen roto tiller/fertilizing combo.

After picking my garden last September, I let our 3 pigs into the garden to clean up the garden leftovers. They ate the leftover vegetables and also did an excellent job digging up the garden and fertilizing it thoroughly.
 
If a person really thinks about it, every cubic inch above ground and below ground is composed of pure fertilizer. There's no shortage of any of it. It's getting into the plant that's the hard part.
 
I started making my own liquid fertilizer from weeds, comfrey, borage, etc a couple of years ago. My garden is supercharged now. All it takes is a 5 gallon bucket and however much time it takes to fill it with the plants. A couple months later I've got enough to make 50 gallons of fertilizer.

I used it when watering a dozen of my apple trees during a dry spell and they were my most vigorous growers. Planning to do a side by side test on some white clover this year.
 
If a person really thinks about it, every cubic inch above ground and below ground is composed of pure fertilizer. There's no shortage of any of it. It's getting into the plant that's the hard part.
No doubt. Little concerning as my soil test just came back and according to multiple samples I have almost non-existent phosphorus in my soil. Some day I will have a no till drill and be able to due a crop rotation that will require little to no synthetic fertilizer.
 
I’m gonna run some fertilizer with my seed when I plant for summer. Some articles about this working well, prevents fertilizer loss, and gets better yield with less input.

Like Turkey my goal is to get to no fertilizer. Not there yet.
 
potassium and phosphorus take time to get from lower soil layers. Also, regional soil issues are well known by local soil and water conservation districts, local co-op, and nearby farmers.

Soil amendment recommendations can be quite a bit higher than our low impact rotational crop rye clover brassica rotation. When soil samples advice is given by the lab, theres alot of crops to choose from. The grain and grain legume crop codes usually have advice based on desired harvest, how many tons per acre. Besides grain harvests, thry also have pasture advice.

Also, whats laying there dead has nutrients a ground soil sample will not detect.

Soybeans is a prime crop. Once nearby farms harvest corn or beans, there is a big froage gap for wildlife. Does your local AG use winter rye or wheat rotations? If they do, focusing on legumes or brassica portions might be more worthwhile. Daikon raddish can be a good surprise late season crop. Also, you can grow some desireable early bow season food in one corner, grow good rifle season forage in the far corner, and then grow some late season in the middle. Once the past season is done, put some rye and clover seed in.

Early turnips, rifle oats and rape, late season rye and daikon. Maybe crimson clover for the rifle area, and ladino everywhere because its not aggressive and takes awhile to grow.

Theres way more to a good soil sample than 3 letters...... show us a copy. if you want advice for a different crop code, they usually send you it for free if you call or email.

Also, find crops that jive with you soil issues, oats i believe is particularly low phosphorus. Wood ash s not only good for pH, it high in pottasum and has some phosphorus and trace minerals. Wood chips, rotten hay, or helping a horse or sheep person locally remove manure with a tractor are a few free or cheap ways of getting nutrients.
 
I started making my own liquid fertilizer from weeds, comfrey, borage, etc a couple of years ago.

I did this with nettles, comfrey, borage, and dock. It got a bit soggy and went anaerobic, but I still ended up with some decent fertilizer. I also ended up with hundreds of mousies, in case anyone is a big live bait fisherman.

This year I will get a proper barrel that keeps the rain out so I can ferment the weeds and get that "black gold" concentrated fertilizer.

I'm also going big on vermicompost this year. Hoping to make a ton or two.
 
No doubt. Little concerning as my soil test just came back and according to multiple samples I have almost non-existent phosphorus in my soil. Some day I will have a no till drill and be able to due a crop rotation that will require little to no synthetic fertilizer.
To improve your phosphorus deficiency I would try to double crop buckwheat this year. You could even mow it right after the first crop sets seed and you'll likely get the second crop for free if you time it with rain coming.
 
To improve your phosphorus deficiency I would try to double crop buckwheat this year. You could even mow it right after the first crop sets seed and you'll likely get the second crop for free if you time it with rain coming.
I know buckwheat has an allelopathic effect to some extent, any issues with corn or beans immediately after terminating it?
 
What about wood ashes from the fireplace for tree seedlings?

Perhaps non acid loving hardwoods?

bill
 
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