GP/LP 3P600 or 3P606NT user thread

So..........

Where do you place the T handles when planting plots?

bill
 
I keep mine in the middle.
 
Depends, I try and dig up some seed and may move it a little. I'm usually closer to the front than rear. Most of the stuff I plant will do best if I can get it around 1"
 
So..........

Where do you place the T handles when planting plots?

bill
I put the T handles all the way up for smaller seeds going through the big box. I planted a long season brassica mix this way in June as an experiment. It was after I had worked grading the plots, so they were basically bare but compacted, so I had inadequate weed control. I drilled those plots which seemed to place the seeds around 1/4". They germinated very quickly and looked great. I plan to use these same settings for alfalfa and switchgrass next year. I ended up spraying them out a couple weeks ago to plant a mix of grains, brassicas, clover, and chicory. I initially used the deepest setting (T handle toward the press wheels, but noticed the ground was so dry/hard, I wasn't getting adequate closure/down pressure. I moved the T-handles to the mid position and found that worked better on closure and was giving me 1/2"-1" depth. I found the hydraulic toplink to be very useful and have found that making sure there is just enough pressure on the drive wheel to prevent it from skipping is about perfect. I've found if the wheel skips either the toplink needs to be shortened slightly or I need to slow down a little bit. I was still able to plant quite fast with it. I'm absentee, so I'm observing cellular cams to monitor growth.
 
I've been pretty vocally disappointed in my 3p600 planting compared to prior experience with pull type Esch no till drill. That said, i'm pretty happy with how fall planting went, might have went too deep actually in many spots. 4 slots from all the way forward on the closing wheels. Peas/oats in the big box, clover/brassica blend in the small box. I think i'm turning a corner.. It's certainly a nice improvement in planting time with a 6' 3pt vs 3' pull type.

The esch got sold this summer. If I were to get another I'd probably take a close look at a 5' 2 point esch that sell for around $20k. That might be a bit much for my tractor but not sure..
 
Im about to start my fourth season with the GP 3P606NT

The learning curve has started to flatten out and am beginning to get a feel for the implement

Appreciative of knowledge/lessons shared from the fellas here

bill
 
Today I really screwed up with my drill. I was detaching my loader grapple and set the grapple on the ground and also set the drill on the ground .....and dismounted from the tractor to detach the hydraulics from the grapple and lift the QT handles. Re-boarded the tractor and operated the loader to finish detaching the grapple. Then I backed up about 50 feet....before realizing I had not lifted the drill.

NEVER BACK UP WITH YOUR DRILL ATTACHED LIKE I DID. I REPEAT DO NOT DO THIS. EVER.

I spend the next hour trying to dig all the soil and sticks and crap out of the openers. First I tried to simply drive forward with the drill on the ground....but several of the openers were wedged full of stuff and would not rotate. I managed to get most of them cleared but two of the opener pairs were wedged pretty tight with sod and dirt.

I did not break anything and despite the double disk blades being wedged apart by as much as 3/4" they sprang back to normal. I suppose this experience could have been worse......but I do not intend to find out. I finally cleaned up my drill and got it back on my cart for winter storage. None the worse for wear. I am done drilling seeds for another year.

Really happy with my drill and my no-till experience this year. Life is short......buy a drill.

IMG_3083.JPG
 
Today I really screwed up with my drill. I was detaching my loader grapple and set the grapple on the ground and also set the drill on the ground .....and dismounted from the tractor to detach the hydraulics from the grapple and lift the QT handles. Re-boarded the tractor and operated the loader to finish detaching the grapple. Then I backed up about 50 feet....before realizing I had not lifted the drill.

NEVER BACK UP WITH YOUR DRILL ATTACHED LIKE I DID. I REPEAT DO NOT DO THIS. EVER.

I spend the next hour trying to dig all the soil and sticks and crap out of the openers. First I tried to simply drive forward with the drill on the ground....but several of the openers were wedged full of stuff and would not rotate. I managed to get most of them cleared but two of the opener pairs were wedged pretty tight with sod and dirt.

I did not break anything and despite the double disk blades being wedged apart by as much as 3/4" they sprang back to normal. I suppose this experience could have been worse......but I do not intend to find out. I finally cleaned up my drill and got it back on my cart for winter storage. None the worse for wear. I am done drilling seeds for another year.

Really happy with my drill and my no-till experience this year. Life is short......buy a drill.

View attachment 82526
nice rig, I like your diy add on... how big is that tractor? I could not magnify to see the model. curious how it does lifting the drill
 
nice rig, I like your diy add on... how big is that tractor? I could not magnify to see the model. curious how it does lifting the drill

It’s a Kubota Grand L 3520 HSTC. Hydro with a cab. It’s got 38 Gross HP but only about 30 to the PTO. It’s the biggest baddest tractor that fits under a 10 high door. It suits me perfectly. It easily lifts a full drill and I could add more weights and it would still do so. Hydraulic capacities are quite good. I do have loaded rear tires. It has allot of weight and muscle to throw around when needed....for the size tractor it is.

I own mostly six and a few five wide implements and they suit me just fine. I ave about 8 acres of plots and a few miles of trails and pathways carved though my wooded property. The cab is invaluable to me....I stay clean and enjoy the work now...compared to my tillage days.

I would buy another tractor like this In a heartbeat. Did I mention I have a CAB and HVAC? Lol. I can work under most any condition now.....deer flies, rain, heat, cold etc. Bad weather days become my work days at Deertopia. I save fair weather days for golf and boating.

Enlarge to see my “ Let’s Go Brandon” sticker on the cab roof. lol
 
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It’s a Kubota Grand L 3520 HSTC.

*3560 :)

@WKyGasDoc I have the same (minus cab) and a 3p600. Hydraulics lift it easily I just have to be careful when putting it down to keep it from dropping too fast. It's at the heavy end for this tractor when loaded with seed IMO as evidenced by how much the tires squat when lifted vs on the ground. I wouldn't be surprised if my skinny R1 tires squat more than @Foggy47's R4s though. I also have very flat ground, might be a little sporty on hills. HP isn't a concern, I pulled it at low RPMs in high gear this august.

I think i want a foamer.. Would be nice to not have to be staring at thatch wondering if i'm planting in the right spot constantly.
 
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*3560 :)

@WKyGasDoc I have the same (minus cab) and a 3p600. Hydraulics lift it easily I just have to be careful when putting it down to keep it from dropping too fast. It's at the heavy end for this tractor when loaded with seed IMO as evidenced by how much the tires squat when lifted vs on the ground. I wouldn't be surprised if my skinny R1 tires squat more than @Foggy47's R4s though. I also have very flat ground, might be a little sporty on hills. HP isn't a concern, I pulled it at low RPMs in high gear this august.

I think i want a foamer.. Would be nice to not have to be staring at thatch wondering if i'm planting in the right spot constantly.
I like Foggy's rig

Are they commercially available/

bill
 
*3560 :)

@WKyGasDoc I have the same (minus cab) and a 3p600. Hydraulics lift it easily I just have to be careful when putting it down to keep it from dropping too fast. It's at the heavy end for this tractor when loaded with seed IMO as evidenced by how much the tires squat when lifted vs on the ground. I wouldn't be surprised if my skinny R1 tires squat more than @Foggy47's R4s though. I also have very flat ground, might be a little sporty on hills. HP isn't a concern, I pulled it at low RPMs in high gear this august.

I think i want a foamer.. Would be nice to not have to be staring at thatch wondering if i'm planting in the right spot constantly.

Gypsy....their is a control to slow your 3 point from dropping the load so quickly. I do not remember where this is.....but I think it's right below the seat in my cab. I suppose I have not had the need to alter mine. I also do set mine done lightly....but currently it has not been a concern. Like you I do not have hilly land, so I suppose my results could be a bit different in the hills....but still....I have little fear of pulling that drill anywhere.

I did own a Tar River Says for 1.5 seasons....and it too did a pretty good job....but has a lower build quality that goes along with a lower price tag. It did fine for most plotting situations and I think I could get along with it.....but I was able to get my investment back when I sold it....and bought this Great Plains drill. No regrets. The GP is a much better build quality and the seed metering, durability, quality, and such is worth the extra price to me. I cannot easily justify the prices paid for these things.....but I sure enjoy owning quality tractors and implements. I do have somewhat limited time to do these things and still enjoy other hobbies and "addictions". Not sure I can improve on my tractor and drill for my purposes. Been a great experience going no-till......and my land is in a better place now.
 
Gypsy....their is a control to slow your 3 point from dropping the load so quickly. I do not remember where this is.....but I think it's right below the seat in my cab.
Good point, I adjusted mine to max speed for the disk a long time ago and haven’t touched it in a couple years and forgot about it. Thanks for the reminder!
 
The foamer?
Yes...you can buy a foam marker kit like I have. I did make the brackets to hold it in place. I found the one I got on sale in the fall a few years back. ....trying to remember the brand. Will look for a link and post it here.

Found it. I bought this for under $300 on sale in 2021 (Amazon). Seems like allot for what it does....but it works very well....and not sure I could do a decent job without it. Sometimes I wish it was on my sprayer....alas I get along on the sprayer. Note.....a person should put hose clamps on all those hose and barb connections....as they do slip off and if you lose the drop markers....they charge like crazy for a replacement (so I have read). Like most of these things.....a few mods helps your satisfaction.

 
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^ At one time I thought about trying to make a "group buy" on this item.....and then suddenly it was on sale.....so I pushed the buy button and the rest is history. I do like mine.
 
Some of those cheap GPS units have drawn my attention and would work good for a tractor hood mount. I've read a few testimonials from folks who have used them and they have good reviews. More $$ than a foamer but I think maybe more versatile too?
 
Some of those cheap GPS units have drawn my attention and would work good for a tractor hood mount. I've read a few testimonials from folks who have used them and they have good reviews. More $$ than a foamer but I think maybe more versatile too?

Yep....and then you could couple it with auto-steer if you had the right equipment......and then self driving will enter in the next few years. I may be dead by then tho....lol. The foam works pretty good for me. Grin.
 
Thanks guys!! my 7040 Kubota does a great job with my 3p606, but I have a steep creek to cross and hills to climb to get to some plots.. so I jack it high with my hydraulic top link. I have a mx6000 with cab at home and I love the CAB. As Foggy points out. I may invest in a cab model for the big farm.

I need to check out the foamer and gps. I made a diy foamer for my UTV sprayer , crude does a fair job. but I am getting tired of attempting to see my drills tracks in the hard West KY thatch. I really had hard time penetrating deep enough this year, even adjusted my front wheel (which I was nervous about doing).

Appreciate all your guys ingenuity and experience. !!
 
So..........

Where do you place the T handles when planting plots?

bill

Seems I always end up with my handles all the way forward and then tweak with my hydraulic top link. I really need to adjust my drive wheel one hole lower but have not taken the time to do so. Largely this is due to the trouble I have when reinstalling that bogus drive chain tightened affair they have. I hate that sucker.
 
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