GP/LP 3P600 or 3P606NT user thread
- Thread starter Brian662
- Start date
Foggy47
5 year old buck +
I have really learned to trust the charts that Great Plains has for their drills....and when using mix to select a similar size to that shown in the book. Then calibrate and tweak based on the results from calibration. Usually I get a pretty good rate after using my best judgement and the calibration results. I often check the seed boxes for seed "consumption" and use my little LED flashlight to look between the openers to check seed delivery. Funny how you find your own methods to arrive at a good result.
For those with the pull type, how do you adjust to keep the drill hitch from hitting the lower links on the three point lift while doing sharp turns? I’ve adjusted my drawbar out, but the hydraulic hoses are not long enough. And by sharp turns, I’m not talking maxing steering out, just anything other than going well past the row and gently turning to come back in.
Wild Thing
5 year old buck +
My I-Match Quick Hitch keeps the lower links high enough and prevents any swaying of the lower links. My hydraulic hoses are plenty long enough with the draw bar in the extended position when I plant...
The Quick Hitch was probably the best $285 investment I have ever made. I leave it attached except when using my 3 pt auger, and most recently when I borrowed my neighbors' 3 pt rototiller to till up some old switchgrass plots. Otherwise, all of my 3 point implements have been modified to hook up to the Quick Hitch. I can drop one implement and hook up to another in 2 minutes or less.
Cultipacker...
C\yclone spreader...
Brushog
Sprayer...
Landscape rake...
Back blade...
And even for those implements I used when I used to turn dirt...
Wild Thing
5 year old buck +
Maybe a little better view in these pics. I have never had any issues with interference...
BTW - You can clearly see the weight bracket towers on the front of the drill for hanging suitcase weights. I ordered them when I bought my drill but in 10 years I have never needed to add any weight for planting.
BTW - You can clearly see the weight bracket towers on the front of the drill for hanging suitcase weights. I ordered them when I bought my drill but in 10 years I have never needed to add any weight for planting.
deepsleep
5 year old buck +
That rig is almost as long as some of my plots! It would be nice for my farm field style plots, though.
Farmsteader
5 year old buck +
I was thinking the same thing on the center drive wheel design. I have a lot of hills and slope on the fields I plant and notice the drill will lean to either side when I plant. I have my stabilizers as tight as I can and have the drill centered behind the tractor. I was thinking maybe trying to add some type of wheels to both sides that act like training wheels to prevent the leaning of the drill. While drilling I noticed the right most Coulter actually stops turning and drags through the thatch when the lean is the worst. For some reason the leaning seams to be worse with leaning to the left. I haven't figured out why that is yet. Here are a couple of pictures showing what I mean. For some reason I can't get the second picture orientation upright.I do think that rather than a center drive wheel…..that a pair of drive wheel located at, or near the ends of the width would be a better means to provide better depth control and a better seed drive system too. I wonder if two thin cast steel wheels (similar to what the new genesis uses) could fit just inboard of the coulters at either side of the drill and still be made to drive the gear box? It mar be a tight squeeze to get all that needed to fit in a seven inch space……but I think the cast drive wheel width could be as narrow as a few inches. Perhaps it could be designed to be somewhat ahead of the lead openers and of significantly larger diameter to allow supporting a shaft and related needs. Hmmmmm…. I think this would really improve 3 point drills. I shoulda been a drill engineer. Grin.
Edited to correct the width and diameter for clarity. Also those two wheels need to be easily adjusted for depth control. NO MORE JOCKYing THE OPENERS BETWEEN THE DRIVE WHEELS AND THE PRESS WHEELS. Control depth the right way......at or near the openers.
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Foggy47
5 year old buck +
^ I agree with what you say here. I think my drill kinda "teeter toters" on that center drive wheel and this will considerable alter the seed depth from one side to the other. It also makes for some smoke and mirrors to set the drill correctly. Getting some "depth bands" would work....but those are a mega hassle on a small drill with potential changes. Two wheels carrying the excess weight and stabilizing the drill.....and would make seed depth quite even side to side....IMO.
Rather than a cast wheel......I can envision a 3" wide "belt" with a longer foot print....thus the support shaft(s) and bearings could be a distance from the openers......while providing a positive depth control.
------------------------------------------------
OK a story from the past...almost forgotten now.
In another life long ago....I did design and develop a depth control set up for IH row-planters of that period (as an accessory attachment to compete with the "new" (at that time) JD Maxi-Merge planters)....which were all the rage then. Good depth control is a very real concern to the better farmers.
Geez I am old and have done allot of stuff....lol. Here is another time I got the shaft. I spent a summer first developing this product to a usable state...then selling it to implement dealers through a widely recognized rep firm (they provided the contacts with the bigger dealers) in the soybean belts....and stood to make ALLOT of money in commissions when those generated orders would ship in Spring. I worked my fanny off....and was excited about my future.
Then....the SOB whom owned the company sold out to another party whom moved the biz to another state....letting me holding the empty bag. There is more dirt....but too long of a story for this site.
Tough lesson for a young guy at that time......and I could not afford to sue these SOB's. Today the guy who sold me down the river is bankrupt....and I do not feel sorry for him....not even one little bit. He should be in prison. I guess this was back in the late 70's. Part of my education at the School of Hard Knocks. At least I did learn something. lol
Rather than a cast wheel......I can envision a 3" wide "belt" with a longer foot print....thus the support shaft(s) and bearings could be a distance from the openers......while providing a positive depth control.
------------------------------------------------
OK a story from the past...almost forgotten now.
In another life long ago....I did design and develop a depth control set up for IH row-planters of that period (as an accessory attachment to compete with the "new" (at that time) JD Maxi-Merge planters)....which were all the rage then. Good depth control is a very real concern to the better farmers.
Geez I am old and have done allot of stuff....lol. Here is another time I got the shaft. I spent a summer first developing this product to a usable state...then selling it to implement dealers through a widely recognized rep firm (they provided the contacts with the bigger dealers) in the soybean belts....and stood to make ALLOT of money in commissions when those generated orders would ship in Spring. I worked my fanny off....and was excited about my future.
Then....the SOB whom owned the company sold out to another party whom moved the biz to another state....letting me holding the empty bag. There is more dirt....but too long of a story for this site.
Tough lesson for a young guy at that time......and I could not afford to sue these SOB's. Today the guy who sold me down the river is bankrupt....and I do not feel sorry for him....not even one little bit. He should be in prison. I guess this was back in the late 70's. Part of my education at the School of Hard Knocks. At least I did learn something. lol
