GP/LP 3P600 or 3P606NT user thread

Corn with the drill turned out ok. A bit light as I suspected but that's leaving some room for volunteer beans that are in there.

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Don't ask about the cracked windshield 🤬

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Lemme guess

overhanging limb on access trail

bill
 
No my face cracked it when dropped the front end into a ditch....




Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Have switchgrass emerging anywhere from 1" 2-leaf to 8" 6-leaf stage after using the 606NT back on June 13. Pretty good for one month. Results seem to be dependant on whether there is ground thatch vs clean soil.

A pic of some of the littler stuff.
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^ Brian - Are you saying you get better switch emergence in the thatch or on the bare dirt?
 
Bare dirt switch was up to 8" tall in one month. Stuff planted into areas with thatch was 1-3" tall with much more sporadic germination. 95% of this planting was into thatch but we've had rain and some heat so even the thatch planted stuff was popping. SW WI

I planted some CRP mix into 99% bare soil and that's the stuff that germinated in about 10 days, SE MN. Its close to home so I can look at it whenever I want.

After viewing my recent planting into thatch in SW WI, I still think you'll be fine @Foggy47
Keep in mind how small it is when it germinates, not much bigger than pencil lead.
 
I agree with Brian. A month ago I thought my switch planting was going to be a total failure again. This weekend what I saw made me think I planted it too heavy! 😂 I was expecting something miraculous with the RC seed (and maybe what I am seeing is) but it is still deceptively slow.
 
Corn with the drill turned out ok. A bit light as I suspected but that's leaving some room for volunteer beans that are in there.

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Don't ask about the cracked windshield 🤬

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That looks like a good stand. How are the ears producing? What drive setting and box setting did you use?
 
ok even with my Kubota 7040 their is a lot of slop in my bottom draft bars on my LP3P drill. so it slides a lot from side to side. I found some bushings that help but still have too much slop and tired of adding several washers to make it all tight. Any suggestions to make this better?
Scares me and drives me nuts when the drill slides from side to side.
 
ok even with my Kubota 7040 their is a lot of slop in my bottom draft bars on my LP3P drill. so it slides a lot from side to side. I found some bushings that help but still have too much slop and tired of adding several washers to make it all tight. Any suggestions to make this better?
Scares me and drives me nuts when the drill slides from side to side.

You can probably take some slack out of the stabilizer bars or chains whatever your tractor has to keep the 3 pt from swinging, if I understand the question.
 
You can probably take some slack out of the stabilizer bars or chains whatever your tractor has to keep the 3 pt from swinging, if I understand the question.
^ Was thinking the same thing. Not sure your stabilizer set up ? .....but mine can be pinned so the drill is contained to pull straight.
 
^ Was thinking the same thing. Not sure your stabilizer set up ? .....but mine can be pinned so the drill is contained to pull straight.
This^^^^

TSC carries them

they are cheap and easy to find

bill
 
This^^^^

TSC carries them

they are cheap and easy to find

bill
I had stabilizer chains on my first tractor (JD 790). After that I have had stabilizer bars which are pinned. FAR and away superior set up. Knowing what I know now.....I would replace any chain set up with bars. I have QD stainless pins which have a detent ball.....and can alter mine very quickly to fit any situation. Look at a tractor dealer and compare. Then use google to find what you want / need.
 
my bottom draw bars have pins that can adjust the width of two bars. I try to get them as tight as possible but still the implement slides between them due to the wide cat 1 pockets.
 
Good thread 👍. I have the LP 606NT pull behind so much of this doesnt apply to my drill, but interesting nonetheless. I only got maybe halfway through but it looks like you 3 Pt guys have things mostly figured out.
 
Good thread 👍. I have the LP 606NT pull behind so much of this doesnt apply to my drill, but interesting nonetheless. I only got maybe halfway through but it looks like you 3 Pt guys have things mostly figured out.
I absolutely think your drill “drills” better than mine. If I had big flat open plots I would have your drill.

For my land with hills and brush and trees and oxbow shaped plots my 3pt makes more sense. And drills the seed well enough.
 
I absolutely think your drill “drills” better than mine. If I had big flat open plots I would have your drill.

For my land with hills and brush and trees and oxbow shaped plots my 3pt makes more sense. r And drills the seed well enough.



I do think that rather than a center drive wheel…..that a pair of drive wheel located at, or near the ends of the width would be a better means to provide better depth control and a better seed drive system too. I wonder if two thin cast steel wheels (similar to what the new genesis uses) could fit just inboard of the coulters at either side of the drill and still be made to drive the gear box? It mar be a tight squeeze to get all that needed to fit in a seven inch space……but I think the cast drive wheel width could be as narrow as a few inches. Perhaps it could be designed to be somewhat ahead of the lead openers and of significantly larger diameter to allow supporting a shaft and related needs. Hmmmmm…. I think this would really improve 3 point drills. I shoulda been a drill engineer. Grin. 😀

Edited to correct the width and diameter for clarity. Also those two wheels need to be easily adjusted for depth control. NO MORE JOCKYing THE OPENERS BETWEEN THE DRIVE WHEELS AND THE PRESS WHEELS. Control depth the right way......at or near the openers.
 
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I absolutely think your drill “drills” better than mine. If I had big flat open plots I would have your drill.

For my land with hills and brush and trees and oxbow shaped plots my 3pt makes more sense. And drills the seed well enough.
I agree with this. I had the chance to drill about 7 acres total a couple days ago with my 3p600 on an L4240. About 4 acres are old farm field that is flat and fine for a pull type drill. The rest is anything from 0.05 to 0.5 acres. It took a lot of maneuvering just to lime these small plots with a Groundbuster, which is a lot smaller than a 606nt. That being said, given the lack of rain and plot compaction from working in them (grading, stump removal, etc.), I was "only" able to drill 3/4" deep in some areas, whereas the full NT would likely cut deeper. My opinion is that it wont make a difference for the large box seeds I usually plant e.g. cereal grains, radishes, etc. A buddy and I spent a bit of time playing with calibration and I was able to easily mix a 12 or 14 seed mix split between both boxes. The metering seemed incredibly accurate as I had a tiny amount of seed left when I finished, as planned. Going forward, it will be very easy to plant whatever mix I dream up, all in one pass. Of note, this was the second time I used the drill. After we did extensive work on several plots in June, I drilled some long season brassicas just as a test and to cover the soil. I ran them from the big box and drilled at 1/4-1/2". They germinated perfectly but between weed competition and deer browse, they didn't canopy, which is why I replanted (I suspected this would happen but wanted to try out the new toy!)
 
No question that a 3 Pt drill is going to be easier to maneuver around. Having said that though, I can plant some pretty tight plots with my pull behind drill. I have had a lot of practice backing up everything from 18 wheelers to boat trailers to farm implements over the years so it isn't all that difficult for me at this point. Still….there have been times when I would have liked the 3 Pt model.

Agree with deepsleep though that seed metering is very accurate and there is never any “skipping” with the end wheel drills. I have planted sugar beets down to 2# per acre with no issues.

I also agree that they hold their value very well. I am pretty sure that my drill is worth more today than what I paid for it 10 years ago. 👍
 
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