Going into winter, what to do with crabs and pears?

[Catscratch]

I planted some crab and pear trees this spring. They've done great over the summer!
What is the next step? What needs done this fall and winter to keep them going strong? You can assume I know nothing about fruit tree care and that with all the trees I've planted in the past I just leave them alone to fend for themselves.

 

[chummer]

If you are zone 4 or below I would paint the trunks white. Also, your typical screen and caging of the trees if you have not done that yet.

 

[Catscratch]

Zone 6a. What does the white paint accomplish?
I did manage to figure out that they would need screen and a cage when I planted them. So +1 on that one:)

 

[sandbur]

White paint and shade of the south or SW side of the tree is for sunscauld protection of bare trunks.

I have no idea if sunscauld is a problem in zone 6a.

 

[Catscratch]

I'll have to google sunscauld and see what it looks like (and maybe learn something).
Is it a special paint for this purpose, or just whatever is cheap at Walmart?

 

[SD51555]

Lots of guys on here have talked about drought conditions making the trees more apt to winter injury. Maybe some watering leading up to frost might be a good idea. SMSmith or Crazy Ed would be the ones to ask for sure.

 

[sandbur]

I'll have to google sunscauld and see what it looks like (and maybe learn something).
Is it a special paint for this purpose, or just whatever is cheap at Walmart?

Interior white latex paint is mixed with water. Some add insecticidie.

 

[Turkey Creek]

Sunscald can happen anywhere there is extreme swings in temperature in a short peiod of time (as in hours). I would apply normal amounts of water up to leaf drop. Screening and cages are the big thing.

 

[Bowsnbucks]

Sandbur is right - white latex paint mixed about 50/50 with water. Brush it on the trunks to protect against sunscald ( also known as winter injury ). Sunscald causes the bark to split open on the south - southwest side of the tree due to sun exposure and then freezing. The paint also discourages insects to some degree.

X2 with TC above. posting at the same time !! ^^^^^^

 

[Catscratch]

Sunscald can happen anywhere there is extreme swings in temperature in a short peiod of time (as in hours). I would apply normal amounts of water up to leaf drop. Screening and cages are the big thing.

We have big temp swings all winter. It might be 18 degrees one day and 60 the next. I think Friday's high is suppose to be 95 and Saturday 75.
I have been weining them from watering since mid summer. I started with once a week, then once every two weeks, and now I'm only watering if we don't have a rain for three weeks or more. Since they have survived and grown so well I want to gradually "harden" them. With that said I do plan on watering them this fall and winter if it gets dry.

Do I need to mulch?

 

[Rally1148]

It's not necessarily for helping them harden off, but if you use soil builders (lime, compost, azomite, agronite, gypsum, greensand etc... you can apply them now. They take a while to be broken down by the microbes but will be in there next year for growing.

 

[Catscratch]

It's not necessarily for helping them harden off, but if you use soil builders (lime, compost, azomite, agronite, gypsum, greensand etc... you can apply them now. They take a while to be broken down by the microbes but will be in there next year for growing.

Lol, never even thought of soil builders. I suppose I should do a soil test and see if I need anything. Is there anything on that list that is just good common practice (do it just because, no testing needed)?

 

[Rally1148]

composted/composting leaves can be done anytime. I'd say any compost (i.e. those with food scraps in them or potting soil) but some of those can have some N in it, which is exactly what you DON'T want. You don't need to apply leaves spring AND fall if it's under lumite, but once a year is a good idea.

 

[Rally1148]

If your trees are growing great....just leave 'em the heck alone. As long as they're screened and fenced, you're good. If you want to paint the trunks it sure wouldn't hurt anything, but in zone 6a I wouldn't get too concerned. I'm not a fan of having compost/mulch around my trees....too many rodent issues in the past.

Sometimes we "baby" trees to death

I should have been more clear with how much I put down. I put down like half and inch. Basically just enough to cover the ground.

 

[Catscratch]

I've heard that you need to mulch to help protect the roots near the surface and to help retain moisture. Any truth to this?

 

[Rally1148]

I don't like mulching fruit trees. Commercial orchards don't mulch their trees. What kind of soil do you have? Unless you're dealing with sandy soil I see no benefit to mulching. If you're going to put something down around your trees, the only thing I'd consider is pea gravel/crushed limestone.

I also should have mentioned that! I'm on sandy soil. So I put down the leaves, but I then cover it with lumite. I'm trying to build soil structure, as well as give a better environment for the little microbes. I wouldn't dare put it over the lumite though.

I've heard that you need to mulch to help protect the roots near the surface and to help retain moisture. Any truth to this?

Yes, there is a lot of truth to that!**** BUT if you are using lumite, that should be doing the same thing. If you have trees that are on the ground with no lumite, then mulching in young trees, at least in landscaping, can help. In 6A it might not be a huge deal though.

 

[Rally1148]

Rally...do you or your parents have a compost pile/composter? If not, get one/build one. In the spring, take the finished compost and spread it under the drip line of your trees. That will do more for your trees than putting leaves under the lumite.

Yessir we do! Our property is half a mile from our cottage, and we have ~10 maples oaks and beeches (all 50+ years old). We've hauled all of those leaves down to the property for the past 3-4 years and they are composting. We've also got one that we use for foodscraps and weeds we pull from our garden. My problem at this point is that most of my trees don't have branches wider than the lumite! I certainly plan to do that in the future though. Next year I'll try to get some composted horse manure (1-2 years old) from my neighbor. He uses it on his trees and they love it.

 

[Catscratch]

I also should have mentioned that! I'm on sandy soil. So I put down the leaves, but I then cover it with lumite. I'm trying to build soil structure, as well as give a better environment for the little microbes. I wouldn't dare put it over the lumite though.



BUT if you are using lumite, that should be doing the same thing. If you have trees that are on the ground with no lumite, then mulching in young trees, at least in landscaping, can help. In 6A it might not be a huge deal though.

Bare dirt under the trees right now, but I can add some landscape fabric with no problems. Sounds like this is the plan; landscape fabric and no mulch...
I'll also start a compost barrel for use on the property.

 

[buckvelvet]

I use 8mm black fabric they put down when they paint, its plenty thick. just fyi for alternative options...

 

[Catscratch]

Just to be clear...woven polypro/lumite is not the same as the landscape fabric you get a big box store.

So, does it not work? Can it be made to work? I have two roles of some industrial type stuff that I would like to use if it can be made work.