Fruit tree maintenance ????
- Thread starter Jordan Selsor
- Start date
Native Hunter
5 year old buck +
Jordan, do some research on Hewes Crab. It might be one you would be interested in. It's highly prized as a cider apple.
Bowsnbucks
5 year old buck +
Jordan - Check out greenmantlenursery.com if you want eating crabs. They have about 8 or 10 kinds that are not commonly known by outdoor guys. More of a heritage eating crab kind of place. As the others have said - Chestnut, Centennial, Kerr, Whitney, Dolgo, Wickson, Hewes are all reported to be good eaters for crabs. The greenmantle outfit has other crabs I've not seen mentioned on any forum, except Wickson - above. ^^^^^^
Jordan Selsor
5 year old buck +
Will do! I have been researching crabs while the little one naps this morning. (Mr mom duty today) I got the dozer coming out as soon as it dries up to expand my fields for some more tree planting room:)
leexrayshady
5 year old buck +
taken from another guy on another forum, Captain and Imidan are the best but I dont want to say hard to find but it takes a little effort. here is a spray program that you can get right from amazon or even your local wally world or home depot sometimes
Low Spray Schedule for Home Orchards in the Northeast
Here's my spray schedule for the scores of orchards I manage around SE NY adapted for home owners managing a few fruit trees. It has functioned well for me for over 2 decades, although J. Beetles and brown rot of stone fruit increases the number of sprays and necessary pesticides some years some sites. I have substituted the insecticide I use with Spectracide's Triazide which I'm confident to do because at most of the orchards I manage I now use a similar pyrethroid product with good success. Time of spray is based on apple bloom as that is the predominant fruit here but I generally get away with spraying all trees at the time I spray apples.
Please note that pesticide labels must be read before their use and my recommendations do not override the rules on the label. The label is the law. This document only communicates what has worked for me and your results may vary depending on local pest pressure, which may require a different spray schedule.
Dormant oil (this is optional if there were no mites or scale issues the previous season, which is usually the case in home orchards). Do oil spray somewhere between the point where emerging shoots are 1/2" and the flower clusters begin to show a lot of pink. Mix Immunox (myclobutinol) at highest legal rate (listed on label for controlling scab and cedar apple rust on apple trees) with 1 to 2% oil. If it's closer to pink use 1%.
Don't spray again until petal fall when petals have mostly gone from latest flowering varieties and bees have lost interest. Then spray Triazide (Spectracide Once and Done) + Immunox mixed together at highest legal rates. Repeat once in 10 to 14 days.
Where I manage orchards, the space between earliest flowering Japanese plums and latest flowering apples is only 2 weeks or so which usually allows me to wait until the latest flowering trees are ready to begin spraying anything. Plum curculio seems to time its appearance conveniently to the rhythm of the last flowering apple varieties. This may not be true where you are.
If plums or peaches need oil they may need application before apples. I�ve only had mites on European plums here and never need oil for other stone fruit.
All this is based on plum curculio being your primary insect problem which is the case most areas east of the Mis. River. These sprays will also absolutely control scab, CAR and Mildew as well as most of the crop fatal insects. Apple fly maggot is an exception, but I haven't had much of a problem with this pest in the orchards I manage. This pest can be controlled with a lot of fake apples smeared with tangle trap.
If you don't want to use synthetic chemicals try 4 applications of Surround about a week apart starting at petal fall. You may need to start on earlier flowering varieties as soon as they drop petals because Surround is a repellent and can�t kill eggs after they�ve been inserted into the fruit.
Stone fruit may require the addition of an application or 2 of Indar (Monterey Fungus Fighter is closest available chemical for home owners) starting 4 weeks before first peaches ripen. Apricots must be sprayed sooner if they are scab susceptible with same compound.
Because I manage so many orchards so far apart I have to resort to a spray schedule that is based on expectations rather than actual monitoring. You may be able to reduce insecticide sprays with monitoring but PC can enter an orchard over night and if your insecticide lacks kick-back (as is the case with Triazide), do a lot of damage in a couple of days.
Other problems may occur later in the season and you will in time learn to monitor and react to the pitfalls.
Good luck, Alan Haigh- The Home Orchard Co.
Low Spray Schedule for Home Orchards in the Northeast
Here's my spray schedule for the scores of orchards I manage around SE NY adapted for home owners managing a few fruit trees. It has functioned well for me for over 2 decades, although J. Beetles and brown rot of stone fruit increases the number of sprays and necessary pesticides some years some sites. I have substituted the insecticide I use with Spectracide's Triazide which I'm confident to do because at most of the orchards I manage I now use a similar pyrethroid product with good success. Time of spray is based on apple bloom as that is the predominant fruit here but I generally get away with spraying all trees at the time I spray apples.
Please note that pesticide labels must be read before their use and my recommendations do not override the rules on the label. The label is the law. This document only communicates what has worked for me and your results may vary depending on local pest pressure, which may require a different spray schedule.
Dormant oil (this is optional if there were no mites or scale issues the previous season, which is usually the case in home orchards). Do oil spray somewhere between the point where emerging shoots are 1/2" and the flower clusters begin to show a lot of pink. Mix Immunox (myclobutinol) at highest legal rate (listed on label for controlling scab and cedar apple rust on apple trees) with 1 to 2% oil. If it's closer to pink use 1%.
Don't spray again until petal fall when petals have mostly gone from latest flowering varieties and bees have lost interest. Then spray Triazide (Spectracide Once and Done) + Immunox mixed together at highest legal rates. Repeat once in 10 to 14 days.
Where I manage orchards, the space between earliest flowering Japanese plums and latest flowering apples is only 2 weeks or so which usually allows me to wait until the latest flowering trees are ready to begin spraying anything. Plum curculio seems to time its appearance conveniently to the rhythm of the last flowering apple varieties. This may not be true where you are.
If plums or peaches need oil they may need application before apples. I�ve only had mites on European plums here and never need oil for other stone fruit.
All this is based on plum curculio being your primary insect problem which is the case most areas east of the Mis. River. These sprays will also absolutely control scab, CAR and Mildew as well as most of the crop fatal insects. Apple fly maggot is an exception, but I haven't had much of a problem with this pest in the orchards I manage. This pest can be controlled with a lot of fake apples smeared with tangle trap.
If you don't want to use synthetic chemicals try 4 applications of Surround about a week apart starting at petal fall. You may need to start on earlier flowering varieties as soon as they drop petals because Surround is a repellent and can�t kill eggs after they�ve been inserted into the fruit.
Stone fruit may require the addition of an application or 2 of Indar (Monterey Fungus Fighter is closest available chemical for home owners) starting 4 weeks before first peaches ripen. Apricots must be sprayed sooner if they are scab susceptible with same compound.
Because I manage so many orchards so far apart I have to resort to a spray schedule that is based on expectations rather than actual monitoring. You may be able to reduce insecticide sprays with monitoring but PC can enter an orchard over night and if your insecticide lacks kick-back (as is the case with Triazide), do a lot of damage in a couple of days.
Other problems may occur later in the season and you will in time learn to monitor and react to the pitfalls.
Good luck, Alan Haigh- The Home Orchard Co.
sandbur
5 year old buck +
As a kid the only apples we had to pick and eat were dolgos. I just learned to pop them in my mouth and chew them up.
Now, I actually like them. They are great for apple sauce.
buckvelvet
5 year old buck +
Doesn't anyone spray bonide?
CrazyEd
5 year old buck +
I do. I bought a jug of it and I plan to keep using it until it's gone. Yes, it's weaker than imidan and captan, but it's been alright for me when i've used it.
buckvelvet
5 year old buck +
Yeah thats pretty much what I used last year and was just gonna continue to use that.
Bowsnbucks
5 year old buck +
Are you guys talking the Bonide fruit tree spray ?? It's an all-around bug & fungus spray - right ?? Are there any non-professional apple / crab sprays that are systemic or have a lingering action ?? I can get up to spray at camp about every 2 weeks. ( the reason for residual spray action )
buckvelvet
5 year old buck +
Yes that is what I'm referring too.
buckvelvet
5 year old buck +
This is what I use, $9 at my local wal-mart.
Here is the label w/ uses. http://www.bonide.com/lbonide/backlabels/l201.pdf
chummer
5 year old buck +
How often do you spray it?
buckvelvet
5 year old buck +
10-14 days unless it rains then turn around and do it quicker.
aerospacefarmer
5 year old buck +
A hand held would be like cleaning your bathroom floor with a toothbrush imho. I would get a minimum 25 gallon sprayer like a Fimco that you can attach to atv or if you have a tractor I recommend a 3 pt sprayer attached to pto and one that has handle sprayer as well and you can sit in tractor and spray on the move that's what I do. I have a 60 gallon sprayer and need to fill it twice each time I spray
