Foodplot Stand - Transfered from the QDMA forum

[yoderjac]

Rally,

I position both the height and width of windows to maximize my view and minimize light entry and silhouetting. I have completed the windows yet. All you see is openings and some of them will be reduced depending on the view. This thread is showing my latest design reducing stand size to 6x6. Here are some pictures of a previous stand that was 6x8 intended to best accommodate mentoring a kid.

Note that this particular stand backs to thick pines and has no windows on the back, just front and sides. If I don't have a clear view to a potential target in a particular direction due to terrain or vegetation, I don't put a window there. Note the push-out design of the windows causes them to act as a shade reducing sunlight entering the blind. They can be pushed open to different levels to accommodate different weapons. For a vertical bow they could be pushed further open than you see in this picture. Note, that they don't need to open much further because limit my shot distance to 25 yards when using a vertical bow.

The picture above is a view from the inside looking out. Note in addition to the windows, I mount camo material as sliding curtain and use PVC as rods. This allows me to keep the larger windows open but still hide in the blind.

The 6x6 blind that is the subject of this thread will have similar windows. You will see them as I move forward in upcoming weeks.

Thanks,

Jack

 

[Rally1148]

Rally,

I position both the height and width of windows to maximize my view and minimize light entry and silhouetting. I have completed the windows yet. All you see is openings and some of them will be reduced depending on the view. This thread is showing my latest design reducing stand size to 6x6. Here are some pictures of a previous stand that was 6x8 intended to best accommodate mentoring a kid.

Note that this particular stand backs to thick pines and has no windows on the back, just front and sides. If I don't have a clear view to a potential target in a particular direction due to terrain or vegetation, I don't put a window there. Note the push-out design of the windows causes them to act as a shade reducing sunlight entering the blind. They can be pushed open to different levels to accommodate different weapons. For a vertical bow they could be pushed further open than you see in this picture. Note, that they don't need to open much further because limit my shot distance to 25 yards when using a vertical bow.

The picture above is a view from the inside looking out. Note in addition to the windows, I mount camo material as sliding curtain and use PVC as rods. This allows me to keep the larger windows open but still hide in the blind.

The 6x6 blind that is the subject of this thread will have similar windows. You will see them as I move forward in upcoming weeks.

Thanks,

Jack

Those look MUCH better than I was thinking. I've got a similar setup on ours. The one bad thing is that ours covers a a field that's roughly ~100 yards long, and the elevation changes ~50 feet, so I need to open mine up all the way. Either way I think that the roof they provide is much better than those that flip in, or those that fold down.

 

[yoderjac]

I spent most of the day mowing fields, but I got a little work done on the stand this evening. I finished all the permanent panels. So, the openings you see left will have either windows or the door.

Rear View

Front View

Thanks,

Jack

 

[yoderjac]

I made a bit more progress today. I installed a couple windows, the deck, and the door.

Front View

Rear View

Thanks,

Jack

 

[yoderjac]

Got a little more work done on the windows this morning before heading home:

Thanks,

Jack

 

[yoderjac]

I got to work on the stand again today. I got the last window installed and all the window mechanical hardware installed to allow the windows to push out. I decided to repurpose an old ladder stand for access. I removed a couple sections to get in in the right height ball park. I then leveled an area at the base and inserted a 6x6. The depth of the leveling allowed me to fine tune the height. I then drilled two holes for the legs of the stand. This will prevent any kick-out or settling when soil conditions change. Next, I tied it in to the stand with 2x4s and screws. Here are the latest pics:

Front View

Rear View

Except for a little painting, the outside work is pretty much complete. I have some more door hardware and window treatments to install. I also need to install carpet and such. In another couple of days of work and I'll be done.

Thanks,

jack

 

[Dennis Duffy]

i love the camo netting idea!!! Awesome setup! Thanks for sharing!

 

[yoderjac]

i love the camo netting idea!!! Awesome setup! Thanks for sharing!

Wait till you see the urinal.

 

[BradB]

Ya gonna run the urinal drain line out to a mock scrape? Love the re-purposed ladder stand. Thanks for posting your build, I am working on a couple right now and it is always nice to see others ideas. My boxes are usually a lot highe r (16 ') which makes working on them with ladders very iffy, especially in uneven terrain. So I think I have come up with a lightweight modular wall and roof system I can assemble easily standing on the platform. Gonna try something for the sides I have never seen done, if it works I will post it up.

 

[yoderjac]

Ya gonna run the urinal drain line out to a mock scrape? Love the re-purposed ladder stand. Thanks for posting your build, I am working on a couple right now and it is always nice to see others ideas. My boxes are usually a lot highe r (16 ') which makes working on them with ladders very iffy, especially in uneven terrain. So I think I have come up with a lightweight modular wall and roof system I can assemble easily standing on the platform. Gonna try something for the sides I have never seen done, if it works I will post it up.

Love to see your build. I have one that is quite high because I used the stand as a base for a camera antenna mast. Generally I don't feel I need the height with a box for scent and sight line control like I do with an open stand. Height really drives cost for me. This is the first one with a repurpose ladder stand. The rest have stairs.

Thanks,

Jack

 

[yoderjac]

Today, I got some painting done and the curtain rods (1/2" pvc) installed. Not enough difference for pics. Tomorrow after things dry out, I hope to install the carpet.

 

[yoderjac]

It was a scorcher today but I got some work on the stand done this morning before it got unbearable I got the carpeting installed and the curtains. I took a few pictures from inside and out:

There are a few final touches to add, but for the most part the stand is done!

Thanks,

Jack

 

[yoderjac]

I finished it up today. I decided ot use a bungee cord with a couple eyelets to keep the door closed when I am inside.

I finally installed the urinal.

Finally, I sprayed the entire inside with permethrin for bugs. I'm done now.

Thanks,

Jack

 

[yoderjac]

Well, I always seem to forget something. Our state requires 100 square inches of blaze orange visible 360 degrees during deer firearms season. I added blaze orange boards hung on screws on all 4 sides. These can be removed and restored based on the season.

Now I think I'm done!

Thanks,

Jack

 

[FTG-05]

Jack, if you mentioned it, I didn't see it:

How high are your windows from the floor and what are the height of the windows?

Great looking blind! I'm going to incorporate some of these ideas in my blind I'll be building out this spring.

Thanks,

 

[yoderjac]

Jack, if you mentioned it, I didn't see it:

How high are your windows from the floor and what are the height of the windows?

Great looking blind! I'm going to incorporate some of these ideas in my blind I'll be building out this spring.

Thanks,

It varies stand to stand and location to location. I typically start with a commercial ground blind or treestand. After hunting the spot for a couple years and watching deer patterns, I choose the actual location for the stand. I now have a special frame I made from aluminum angle iron. It is sized so when I place safety flags on the inside corners, they mark the centers for my cement footers.

I take that frame and set it on the ground. I then rotate it in different directions considering sun, deer movement, topography and such. I always want at least one corner of the stand with no windows where I can hide and not be silhouetted. I figure out which sides will have windows and where the door will be.

Next I start building the stand. After the structure and floor are in place, I put my char up on the stand floor. I sit on that chair and figure out what height I want windows. It depends on topography of the land and the location of vegetation. On some stands, windows are higher on one side and lower on another. It really depends on the stand location.

Thanks,

Jack

 

[yoderjac]

Updated Picture Links

 

[northernpotter]

looks nice.Does your windows fold up or down when you open them. what for steps do you use. ladder or regular steps.

 

[yoderjac]

looks nice.Does your windows fold up or down when you open them. what for steps do you use. ladder or regular steps.

My windows are hinged at the top and push out. This creates shade and further conceals movement in the blind. The key to good blind concealment is darkness inside. On most of my blinds I built stairs. They are 6x8 and 8x8 and are intended for me to take kids. This particular blind is only 6x6 and intended for one adult hunter so I repurposed an old ladder stand for entry. If you go back a few pages you can see more construction details.

Thanks,

Jack