First deer apple/pear tree orchard help

[Lot2Learn]

I can't say that the 10' conduit I used was strictly necessary, but I used it thinking that it would help keep the central leader straight at least for the first 8.5' or so. I 'attached' the central leader to the conduit using Aglok.

Fencing and screening around the base of the central leader *is* necessary.

 

[MojoRisin]

Thanks for the replies above. I am going to use conduit due to the wind conditions.

I am going to ask another newbie question in this thread since it is newbie related.

I will be putting down a landscape fabric and crushed limestone around the tree as a weed barrier. How would I get future fertilizer into the ground? I saw some videos on apple tree plantings and one showed a guy spreading like a soup can's worth of fertilizer away from the tree but under the drip line. Would that make it through the rocks and fabric shield when it rains. I understand I would not fertilize the 1st year.

 

[Bowsnbucks]

The method I've used is I cut a 40" x 40" ( or 4 ft. x 4 ft. ) piece of landscape cloth and cut a slit in the middle about 3" long. After I plant the tree ( usually a whip ), I slide the cloth down over the trunk and place small rocks on the corners to hold it down until I cover with crushed limestone. Then I wrap the trunk in aluminum screen ( not tight ) to a height of 30" and staple it shut with a regular stapler. The screen should set down on the landscape cloth. I pile the limestone all over the cloth to a depth of 4" so the whole cloth area is completely covered. The stone holds the cloth down but is more for deterring mice and voles from approaching the trunk to chew it, and they can't really tunnel through it to get at the roots or lower trunk. When the limestone is spread evenly all over the cloth, the bottom of the window screen should be 4" below the level of the limestone - no tunneling by mice / voles that way. This method has worked for the last 4 years and no problems with mice / voles chewing the bark of the trunks.

I then cage with 5' tall concrete mesh circle in a 4' dia. around the edges of the cloth covered with limestone. I add fertilizer each year by placing the fertilizer just under the edges of the cloth, ( good ground contact ), and then sprinkling some around the drip line as the tree grows. No problems and good growth so far.

 

[H20fwler]

My advice on starting a new wildlife orchard would be;

Plant trees that are as disease resistant as you can.

Stay away from dwarf trees, plant good rootstock.

Protect the trees from wildlife with fencing and screening.

Make sure you have good pollinators.


You are on the right track and asking the right questions. I think about everyone here is doing some version of what you are after, trying to get fruit drop from late summer into early winter.
Starting small and adding trees to your orchard is a good idea, you will learn of new varieties and what works and what doesn't in your area as you go along. It's a great hobby/addiction to get into and really does benefit all types of wildlife. In a very short time you will see the benefits and rewards for your efforts.
Your on a very good website for information, lots of people here with years of experience and great advice.

 

[4wanderingeyes]

I would like to also add, make a map, or a chart of which trees are what and where you planted them. I made this mistake the first couple years.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Bowsnbucks]

^^^^^^ Perfect idea. 4wanderingeyes is right. I did the same thing - made a map / registry of what trees were planted where. It's a good thing I did. At one point, before I had the cages staked down, a bear knocked a couple off the whips and rolled them down the slope away from the trees. I didn't know what cage went to what tree. I checked my map, and the answers were right there. The pre-made map / registry saved my butt !!!

 

[Ben.MN/WI]

Planting fruit trees can be quite addictive, so expect to get hooked. I like the idea of creating a map even though I'll admit I haven't done that myself yet. It's on my to-do list though. I'd also recommend labeling the trees with aluminum or brass tree tags so years down the road you can still tell the variety after the plastic tag falls off. I bought a cheap metal punch set and some dog tag sized aluminum blanks so I can label them myself. I've also had good luck with custom made brass labels, but at $3 each it was much cheaper for me to buy a $20 punch set and a $10 bag of blanks and do it myself.

 

[chummer]

My advise would be to forget about the pears. I have wasted a lot of time and money chasing the pear ferry. They break my heart every year. I even ordered them specific for my area, they just don't like the cold. I wish I could snap my fingers and turn them all into apples.

 

[silver_yummies]

My advise would be to forget about the pears. I have wasted a lot of time and money chasing the pear ferry. They break my heart every year. I even ordered them specific for my area, they just don't like the cold. I wish I could snap my fingers and turn them all into apples.

I will be trying 5 different cold variety pears from Cummins this spring. Only 1 of each just to say I tried. Crossing my fingers.

 

[chummer]

I will be trying 5 different cold variety pears from Cummins this spring. Only 1 of each just to say I tried. Crossing my fingers.

Good luck, that is where mine came from.

 

[silver_yummies]

Good luck, that is where mine came from.

I'll let you know in 6 years!

 

[Lordkiwi]

New to this site so I apologize if this has been asked a thousand times. I was directed here from archerytalk because several people said you guys were the ones to ask. We have a farm/ranch in north central SD, only 5 miles from ND, with a substantial deer herd. We have been doing a ton of work over the last decade when it comes to habitat and food plots for deer and pheasants. However, the one thing we don't have is any fruit trees. I don't think there is an apple or pear tree within 15 miles of us. We want to build a fenced in enclosure to plant apple and pear trees tonlet them mature for a few years and then open it up. What kinds/varieties of apple and pear trees will let have fruit ripening all fall. It would be ideal to have some ripen and start dropping as early as mid-October and some as late as possible in the year. Also, how many trees would you recommend planting? I was thinking 4 apple and 4 pear but after reading some other threads I am wondering if I should plant more. Any advice and suggestions are more than welcome!

I love apples and pears and I am sure deer would also. But neither are native to the US and planting cultivars for yourself is wonderful growing them unregulated in the open for dear is likely going to be to problematic and waste of money. I think the root stock issues have already been addressed. Now my suggestion. 1. American Chestnut, There are projects breading and altering the American Chestnut so it can resist the blight that whipped out 4million trees and nearly caused its extinction. Growing them will help the dear and restoration efforts. 2. Aronia aka chokeberry Native to the US and popular in Europe which as produced several great cultivars. 3. American plum again native and delicious for both dear and man. There may be some cultivars available if you look. Also they are graft compatible with Japanese plums in case you ever want to add them to your collections. 5. Pawpaw, great in a long term plan. Young trees need the shade protection of the forest around them till fully grown. A few years after the chestnuts grow in the pawpaw could start.

 

[sandbur]

I love apples and pears and I am sure deer would also. But neither are native to the US and planting cultivars for yourself is wonderful growing them unregulated in the open for dear is likely going to be to problematic and waste of money. I think the root stock issues have already been addressed. Now my suggestion. 1. American Chestnut, There are projects breading and altering the American Chestnut so it can resist the blight that whipped out 4million trees and nearly caused its extinction. Growing them will help the dear and restoration efforts. 2. Aronia aka chokeberry Native to the US and popular in Europe which as produced several great cultivars. 3. American plum again native and delicious for both dear and man. There may be some cultivars available if you look. Also they are graft compatible with Japanese plums in case you ever want to add them to your collections. 5. Pawpaw, great in a long term plan. Young trees need the shade protection of the forest around them till fully grown. A few years after the chestnuts grow in the pawpaw could start.

I politely beg to differ.

The original poster needs top check hardiness (USDA zones ) when planting some of the things that you mention.

There is an Iowa Prairie crab that is native to Minnesota, South Dakota, Iowa, and other places. The GRIN site lists various crosses of domestic apples with the prairie crab. Hanson from South Dakota developed many interesting apples in the past and I believe he was involved in finding/designating the dolgo crab which is very hardy and used as seedling rootstocks. North Dakota and the Canadian prairie provinces also have other varieties that might fit the northern plains quite well.

 

[buckvelvet]

I agree with @sandbur, don't listen to @Lordkiwi, that may be the most arrogant post I've seen on this forum.

 

[Bowsnbucks]

X-3 with Sandbur. He nailed some good info.

 

[Lordkiwi]

I agree with @sandbur, don't listen to @Lordkiwi, that may be the most arrogant post I've seen on this forum.

Wow that harsh. I don't see what the point is to plant Honeycrips or Golden delicious for dear to eat. Its not like they are going to appreciate there delicate texture or winter storage capabilities. Was it the thing about the root stock? I was agreeing with another poster. you by an apple on M26 or M7 you have to stake and protect them while young. Doesn't mean they are just going to be perfectly healthy unstacked and protected after a few years. Apples grown on there own roots or native crabapples are a different matter. What do you have against native plants?

 

[Lordkiwi]

I politely beg to differ.

The original poster needs top check hardiness (USDA zones ) when planting some of the things that you mention.

There is an Iowa Prairie crab that is native to Minnesota, South Dakota, Iowa, and other places. The GRIN site lists various crosses of domestic apples with the prairie crab. Hanson from South Dakota developed many interesting apples in the past and I believe he was involved in finding/designating the dolgo crab which is very hardy and used as seedling rootstocks. North Dakota and the Canadian prairie provinces also have other varieties that might fit the northern plains quite well.

I checked the hardiness before recommending they all fit the bill though pawpaw and chestnut are not native to that area they are hardy for it. I feel like I'm getting hate for saying no apples. Apples and Crabapples especially are great if there grown on there own roots. But going to the garden store to get cultivated apples to plant in a ultimately long term unprotected area is a waste. I have never seen a standard apple at a gardenstore there all grafted meaning there roots are not going to hold up to years unprotected.