Creating Deer Bedding

Prelude8626

5 year old buck +
All, I’m new to forum and was looking for some input. I recently purchased a 150 acre piece of land in southern Maine. I’m looking to create more bedding in a 30 acre piece that currently just has tall pines, with some oaks mixed in. There really isn’t much in terms of understory. It is backed by a wetland on one side and a neighbors clear cut on the other. I can pull deer over but want them to stay. How would you go about creating better bedding (already planning on putting in a 1/4-1/2 acre plot. Thanks.
 
Deer won't stay on 150 acres no matter what you do. Range depends on habitat but 1,000 acres is a good average. Having said that, if you want to create bedding, clear cut first. Then let hardwood stumps push new growth in the spring and spray herbicide to kill it. When it is brown execute a controlled burn presuming the fuel load is low enough. Divide it into sections roughly in thirds when you put in your firebreaks. After the first controlled burn wait about 3 years (depending on regrowth) and then burn one section each year. This will keep it in early succession for a long time without eliminating cover completely in any year.

There are USDA programs to help with cost. Hopefully the combination of timber sale proceeds and the programs will more than cover your costs.

Thanks,

Jack
 
Yea, I know I can’t “keep” them on the property but I need to do something to try and hold them in this lot longer during daylight. The property is lacking good winter thermal cover in spots and this one section of timber is by far the worse. The deer just happen to walk through it. There’s nothing there for them in terms of cover or food.
 
You are going to have to do some thinning either by logging or dropping some trees and getting sunlight to the ground for regeneration of what is already there or planting something for cover. This will do a couple things, thicken up for bedding/cover and create food through regen of sapplings.
 
One thing I've learn over the years is how important scale is. We did lots of hard work over the years with food plots and planting trees and doing hinge cutting. None of those things have had the positive impact of our large scale timber management projects. We clear-cut 20 acres of low quality hardwoods, applied herbicide, and conducted controlled burns. At the same time we thinned 100 acres of pines and conducted controlled burn in them. This had much more impact on our deer than all the things we had done up to that point. Don't get me wrong. All of the things we have done have contributed, but those large scale things that are revenue positive or neutral are by far the best things we have done in the long run.

Thanks,

jack
 
Jack, thanks so much for that info. That makes me feel better with the direction I’m leaning towards. Did you have someone do your controlled burn or did you do it yourself?
 
Jack, thanks so much for that info. That makes me feel better with the direction I’m leaning towards. Did you have someone do your controlled burn or did you do it yourself?

Here is what we did: We contacted the local NRCS/USDA office and told them about the property we bought and they sent out a representative. After reviewing our land and talking with out about our objectives, they developed a multi-year plan and told us what program they thought would fit us best. In our case, it was the EQIP program. We applied for the program and were selected. Once approved we had to wait for money to become available. It was a first approved, first funded thing for us. It didn't take long. They provided guidance on filling out all the forms.

The program we were in paid a certain amount per liner foot for firebreaks, a certain amount per acre for the herbicide application to the clear cut, and a certain amount per acre for the controlled burn. We got to decide how to make that happen we could hire out, or do it ourselves. They provided a list of vendors that know an understand their specifications. The work had to be done to those specifications but could be done by anyone we wanted.

Since this was our first time, we contracted it all out. We made money on the firebreaks and a little on the controlled burn (we paid the contractor less than USDA paid us) and we lost money on the herbicide application. In the end, we about broke even, but we got wildlife habitat work done that we would have otherwise had to pay for ourselves which would have meant less money available for food plots or something else.

The way is worked was this: We got the work done to their specifications on our own dime. We then called them and told them it was complete. They then sent out an inspector to ensure the work was done and properly. They then measured the liner footage or acreage and paid us accordingly.

(The above is the answer to your PM that I thought others would benefit from as well)

As for the controlled burn, we hired a certified burner to conduct the burn. He brought a dozer, a crew, and equipment and developed the burn plan and contacted the appropriate authorities for notification. There is less legal liability if you use a certified burner in our state and something goes wrong. I have participated in controlled burns before but wanted more experience. He let me be part of the crew and knocked my labor off the price. I think one of our other owners may have participated as well, I can't recall.

The offer the controlled burner certification class one time each fall and so far I have not been able to schedule enough days off to take it. I think it is 4 days. I plan to do it in the future. We will still need a dozer. Fortunately the controlled burner let me operate the dozer while he had it on site. He just charged me the hours unoperated for the time I put on it. He was impressed enough with how I handled it that he said he will be willing to drop the dozer off if I got my controlled burner certification. Typically the dozer is only for last minute fire brakes or if something gets out of control. So, we should only have the delivery charge if all goes well.

So, we hope to conduct our future burns ourselves. Drip torches and rakes are not that expensive.

Thanks,

Jack
 
Ive got the torch in my garage, years of experience, and lots of NWCG quals.
 
All, I’m new to forum and was looking for some input. I recently purchased a 150 acre piece of land in southern Maine. I’m looking to create more bedding in a 30 acre piece that currently just has tall pines, with some oaks mixed in. There really isn’t much in terms of understory. It is backed by a wetland on one side and a neighbors clear cut on the other. I can pull deer over but want them to stay. How would you go about creating better bedding (already planning on putting in a 1/4-1/2 acre plot. Thanks.

Are they bedding in the neighbor’s clearcut? If so, that may be what you need.

I am not a fan of the fire idea in some cases. Is it a procedure that creates bedding in your area or just destroys it?


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Are they bedding in the neighbor’s clearcut? If so, that may be what you need.

I am not a fan of the fire idea in some cases. Is it a procedure that creates bedding in your area or just destroys it?


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For us, it does both. If first destroys it but within a year or two, it creates great bedding cover. That is why when we create clear cuts we divide them into at least thirds with firebreaks. After the initial burn, we rotate the burn areas. Smaller burns are easier to handle. In general, our clear cuts have 1/3 good bedding, 1/3 great bedding, and 1/3 recently burned poor bedding but great native food. Forbs pop up quickly. Turkeys use the burns while they are still smoking!
 
Some deer will spend their entire life on less than 400 acres. As Jack eluded it depends on habitat. I have a parcel much smaller than yours and I see the same deer a lot. Sometimes throughout the entire season.

Obviously a lot easier to distinguish the bucks from does. If they have everything they need they certainly will spend more time on your property. I suspect that home ranges are much smaller than people think excluding the rut.

Before you cut the first tree or light the first match (or whatever you choose) make sure you are setting it up to provide the very best access to hunt. You should set it up in a way that to and from stands you have zero chance of bumping any deer. Hunt smarter than your neighbors with minimal intrusion and you will have daytime movement on your land. Good luck.
 
Some deer will spend their entire life on less than 400 acres. As Jack eluded it depends on habitat. I have a parcel much smaller than yours and I see the same deer a lot. Sometimes throughout the entire season.

Obviously a lot easier to distinguish the bucks from does. If they have everything they need they certainly will spend more time on your property. I suspect that home ranges are much smaller than people think excluding the rut.

Before you cut the first tree or light the first match (or whatever you choose) make sure you are setting it up to provide the very best access to hunt. You should set it up in a way that to and from stands you have zero chance of bumping any deer. Hunt smarter than your neighbors with minimal intrusion and you will have daytime movement on your land. Good luck.

There are some pretty good radio collar studies out on home range. They show lots of interesting and somewhat individualized characteristics including season range shifting, one time excursions, hunting season seclusion, and many other things. So, when we talk about home range size we are really generalizing. You are right that in the best habitat, home ranges can be as small as 400 acres.

To some extent you are right that improving your habitat will encourage deer to spend more time on your land, but there are other factors involved like social structure. Improving habitat on any size property is a good thing. I often warn folks that you can't really be successful at QDM as measured by antler size or body weight without sufficient scale. I make this warning to help folks keep their expectations realistic, not to dissuade folks from improving habitat on any size property.

I think you provide great advice about creating a design that makes the property more huntable. I think that is a realistic objective regardless of property size. Folks operation on smaller scale properties will do well to assess their property in context of the surrounding properties, first at the 1,000 acre level and then at the 3 mile level. This context really helps in designing a plan the can make your specific land more huntable. Just accept the condition of your existing herd and something you can't really influence. It doesn't make habitat work any less fun or useful.

Thanks,

Jack
 
I agree. I currently have no problem keeping the deer on the property I’m just trying to keep them longer in hope of reaching the neighboring properties a little later (past legal). The piece of was speaking of is the only part of the parcel that doesn’t “hold deer” it’s just a pass through for them. The rest of the parcel does good holding deer.
 
Google search Jim Ward whitetail academy. There’s a video that’s like 90 minutes long. Its labeled something along the lines of property tour. It’s not purely specific to just bedding but a lot of information and explanation to different habitat improvements. You may very well have a light bulb turn on after watching it
 
I’ve watched his videos and actually have emailed a few times with him. His approach is awesome and doesn’t mind saying what he thinks.
 
My suggestion; speak with a forester. As both scott44 and yoderjac have mentioned, you want to get some sunlight to the ground, one way or another. In Maine, my guess is the best way to do that is to log that piece of ground in a sound, sustainable manner. A forester (not a logger) can help you get there. Good luck.
 
My suggestion; speak with a forester. As both scott44 and yoderjac have mentioned, you want to get some sunlight to the ground, one way or another. In Maine, my guess is the best way to do that is to log that piece of ground in a sound, sustainable manner. A forester (not a logger) can help you get there. Good luck.

Just to expand on this a bit, there are often free professionals you can use, but folks in different professions have different spins on things. For example in our state, advice from a state forester and game department biologist is free. When we started, we had both come out and evaluate and make suggestions. The forester was more biased toward timber value and the biologist was more biased toward wildlife (specifically quail in this case), but they both made important contributions as we were trying to balance timber value with wildlife management. We eventually hired a private forester to conduct a timber sale. We interviewed several. Most were very biased toward timber value, but we found one who was much more balanced and fit well with our objective.

We found all of these resources very useful, and time spent on this forum reading and asking questions really helped us first, be ready with good questions for the pros, and second, be able to weigh the answers we got from the pros and apply them to our objectives.

Thanks,

jack
 
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