Coming up with a plan

TxA&M

Yearling... With promise
So I've been pondering this and figured I'd pick the brain of the mb...sorry if it's been asked I could find it in my search.

How do you decide how many fruit and but trees in one area for hunting?


In Texas we can use feeders, and my folks do during rifle session... however with cwd there is a chance that eventually baiting won't be allowed. So we have started planting in the area of the feeders...
If the day comes where baiting isn't allowed. We will be set up to hunt in the same areas. If it continues, the fruit and nuts will be a bigger draw to the area is my thoughts.

How do you determine how many of each tree in an area.
For example last year we planted 9 pears near one feeder and this year will be planting chestnuts (yes I'm experimenting with theses in central Texas)

At another feeder we planted 7 crab apples and trying to figure out what to plant this in the same area.

Any thoughts?
 
I never went to spot with a specific number of tree, but instead try to span my drop times from late June/early July all the way through Dec.
 
I'm planting a mix in each spot; a mix of fruits, a mix of nuts, a mix of drop times. So basically if I plant 3 crabs in an area I want each to have a different drop time and different but overlapping bloom times. Pears, chestnut, and oaks all go into the same area with the same stipulations.

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Drop times! Ok so that answers the first part of how to choose what is planted together.

So the next question is how many are truly needed for a medium to high population?
 
Hard for me to say really, but so far as long as I've had room I add a few trees every year, rather to much then not enough. Most of my trees are on b118 or standard so most likely I'll have more then needed.
 
You'll probably get different answers for "how many". I think most will say full size trees will out produce smaller trees... in 10 yrs. Plus fruit isn't always reliable. Some yrs will be bumper crops and others will be a bust.
I plant as many as I can protect and care for.

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I think you need to look at the goal for the location. General feeding or to hunt at a specific time. Trees take up a lot of room and not every tree will produce each year. Some fruit trees go biennial, huge one year and little the next unless you thin (remove) apples early in the season. Frost can kill the flowers. You need variety to ensure production each year.

For me and apples, I am more interested in hunting over them so I want apples on the ground from 10/1 to 1/15. I have not planted many early apples other than for my eating.

I have about 60 chestnut seedlings planted at relatively tight spacing that will have to be thinned eventually. I expect many will drop chestnuts before our hunting season starts and I'll cut down the earliest dropping trees first.

Persimmons are another I am working with. I am a bit north for them so I am experimenting to see which grafted varieties will produce well for me in relation to our hunting season and climate.

If you haven't considered persimmons, I would add them to your list.
 
Drop times! Ok so that answers the first part of how to choose what is planted together.

So the next question is how many are truly needed for a medium to high population?

I don't think there is a direct answer to this. I'd say there are two somewhat different objectives. One is to attract game to a specific location for hunting, and another is to feed game. For the first, you don't really need a lot of trees. Consider things like how the pollinate as well as drop times.

For feeding deer, I'd look at planted trees kind of like food plots. My objective is to provide food sources that supplement the native foods. So, I look for mast trees (like food plots) that will provide food when my native foods are scarce. In my case summer is a greater stress period than winter. At the same time I'm looking for attraction.

I have many native American persimmons growing on my land, but many trees are male and don't produce fruit. The best bang for the buck in my area was to cut down native persimmons and bark graft female scions to them. I've traded scions of native trees with folks to cover the late period, Nov, Dec, and Jan. My native trees can drop anywhere from Sep through Nov depending on the year. Many commercially named varieties were selected for early ripening so I used those to cover the early period. Scions are free if traded or inexpensive. If the rootstock is in the 1" - 5" diameter class, trees can produce their first persimmons in the third leaf after grafting.

For feeding purposes, my primary consideration is volume. A few trees are not going to produce enough for feeding purposes. So, for me, the primary criteria in choosing kinds of mast trees is low long-term maintenance. One reason I'm going to permaculture is that sustaining the current scale of my food plot program is difficult both in finance and time. In order to achieve both volume and low cost, I decided to make an up-front investment in an indoor setup and a root pruning container system. There was some significant setup cost, but starting trees from seeds and nuts reduces my cost per tree significantly. I don't count my labor cost. I'm enjoying learning about and growing trees. It is a cabin fever project and most of the labor occurs during the winter when I have time available. This method is not for everyone, but it works well for me.

One tree that I have been experimenting with because of the low maintenance is Jujube. One issue with these is that most are sold grafted to wild or sour jujube root stock which tends to thicket and produce a cluster of low quality thorny trees. I'm working with some Tigertooth I found sold on their own roots. It is less prone to thicketing and the suckering trees produce the same quality fruit as the parent. Unfortunately, I can't recommend Jujube in my area. I think we my be too wet and humid to encourage fruiting. Folks with hot, dry summers seem to get good fruiting. The upside (if I can get it to fruit here) is that it has few pests and is not susceptible to much disease. You may want to look at these depending where you are in Tx.

I'm generally working with trees that are well adapted to my area. I'm in the original zone of the American chestnut. While blight is of course an issue with American chestnuts, I know hybrids with Chinese will do well in my area so Dunstan chestnut is one I'm using. We have Allegheny Chinquapins growing natively on our farm, so I'm propagating these. They are susceptible to the blight, but unlike American chestnuts, they bounce back from the root system and still produce nuts. I'm hoping to get a more blight resistant Chinese Chinquapin (Sequin) chestnut variety that produces at a young age going as well.

Apples were low on my list because of the maintenance required. However, after learning more, I think there may be a low maintenance approach that may work with apples. I'm starting to experiment with them now.

As for how many trees, I've probably either grafted or planted around 500 trees so far and I'll probably continue for a few more years.

This is all in the context of a larger management plan that includes timber management , controlled burns, and other large scale habitat projects.

Thanks,

Jack
 
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