Category 2 to category 1

[Foggy47]

Was hooking up my new (to me) Great Plains Drill to my tractor which has a catagory 1 three point hitch. Noticed the drill had category 1 and category 2 lower links......but the two top link holes are both Category 2......which is a 1" hole and not the typical 3/4" hole as found on other implements. Grrrrrr.

It's allot easier to use a bushing to convert category one to two than it is to convert the implement. Kinda presents a problem if you dont want the hole to get elongated from a loose fit. I found a guy with the same issue on Green Tractor Talk.....and he bought some bushings from Mac Carr to solve this issue. I just did the same thing. Likely a minor inconvenience....and I suppose many folks use a quick hitch to get around this issue......but I am not one of 'em. (too many implements to go that route. ). I really don't like the flanged bearing solution here....as it's just more small parts to work around.....but it beats the alternatives and is an affordable solution.

Anyway......the 3/4" to 1" flanged sleeve bearing is PN 6338K581 if anyone else runs into this issue.

(I know someone is going to tell me about reducer bushings......but that is not the situation here. lol ).

here are some pics:

 

[b116757]

I generally don’t worry about it to much and just leave the slope but that is a good solution to the issue.

 

[rocksnstumps]

^^^yep most good size hardware stores will carry and even Fleet Farm has if you look in their specialty bins above the bolt selections

Back in the day did a number of designs with bronze oilite bushings for crank handles, manually rotated things and such

 

[Tree Spud]

I use a bushing to make sure there is a snug fit. Anytime metal connections have slop, leads to wear in that area along with stress and wear on connected parts. A $3 part can save alot of money.

I like the oiled bushing idea.

 

[Foggy47]

I generally don’t worry about it to much and just leave the slope but that is a good solution to the issue.

Yeah.....I sometimes can let close enough go too......but on this drill I am dealing with allot of weight and it seemed a good idea to get rid of that slop. Not sure what the manufacturer is thinking when they do this kinda stuff? They must expect that most folks will buy their quick hitch? Odd......and a bit irritating. Their literature clearly states category 1 or 2.

I guess that is one reason I like to test fit stuff as time permits....well before I need to put it to use.

 

[Brian662]

I honestly couldn't imagine not using a quick hitch. Saves me so much time and headaches.

 

[Howboutthemdawgs]

I honestly couldn't imagine not using a quick hitch. Saves me so much time and headaches.

I feel the conventional way keeps me in tune with my worst self in case I ever need that guy. I have screamed words that should never be said by a person alone in a barn just trying to plant a food plot.

 

[Brian662]

I feel the conventional way keeps me in tune with my worst self in case I ever need that guy. I have screamed words that should never be said by a person alone in a barn just trying to plant a food plot.

Same. That's why I got the quick hitch..

 

[buckdeer1]

The only thing I can't use a quick hitch for is my post hole auger.I had to quit saying some of those words so I got a quick hitch

 

[Foggy47]

Pat's EZ Change and a Hydraulic Top link.....and you guys with quick hitches can eat your heart out. So much better. And, less expensive and hooks onto about anything you want.

I bought a quick hitch about 15 years ago....and took that sucker off PDQ in favor of my Pats. I think the Quick Hitch is in my iron pile.

They show using an optional "spreader bar" in the video.....but I never use one. I do have telescoping adjustable stabilizer bars on my Kubota, that can be adjusted with a pin.....so that suffices for me. Tho I may use the shown spreader bar if I had the threaded type stabilizers found on some other tractors.