Buy and Assemble a 40" Cultipacker/Roller for under $200!

[35-acre]

I have been wracking my brain on building a cultipacker! Because buying one is like $900 and I am just to cheap for that.

Then I started thinking about what pieces and parts I have around and did some google image searches for other guy's home builds. Then it hit me! I can actually buy a lawn aerator and modify it by adding in some tires instead of the spikes and do the whole thing for under $200!

Aerator
Lowe's and Home Depot sell these relatively cheap. Like $130.
They don't weigh much, but they have a tray for adding weight like cinder blocks or whatever.

This plan calls for using tires instead of the included spikes.
For me, I actually have an aerator that I don't use anymore so this whole thing is just going to cost me only for the tires. I start my project tomorrow (I have the day off) and need to disassemble the axle to get a measurement and figure out the tires that I want.


So I looked at tires online (again Lowe's and Home Depot carry these). I found some clearance tires that are rubber with a steel rim and a bearing in the hub already - which sounds too good to be true. If the axle from the aerator and the hub are a fit this is going to go together in minutes! Regardless if those work or not, I think I need something like 11 tires and I am going to use the cheapest that I can find, like 7" push lawn mower tires (they are generally plastic but they do come with different hub sizes, so I just need to find them that fit).

The end result should look something like this - which isn't a perfect rendering but it's close. If I use rubber tires, they should bulge out at the bottom and give me more coverage, basically closing the gap. Now, I know you can buy a lawn roller for that price but I don't think it would be as durable. Plus this is designed as an aerator to be towed in using only the outside tires and then once you add the weight, you drop the lever and the roller/tires are on the ground. This will work well for me because at my field, I don't have access to that much water to fill a drum-style roller. AND this is then light enough that I can throw it in my truck and take it home (porcupines love to eat plastic and rubber, so any parts like the lawn mower tires would get chewed.)


Looking for anything that I've missed or any ideas on improving this. I should have some real photos tomorrow or next week on the final product.

 

[Red]

Seems like a good plan if you can get enough weight stacked on the roller. You might want to look at how stiff the axle is, the added weight might be too much for the original one.
Let us know how it works!

 

[dsinwi]

I'm about as cheap as they come when it comes to this sort of thing, and a huge diyer. I think you are on the right track as for as your thoughts but I'd be skeptical on the construction and durability of that unit. Sometimes it pays to spend a little more to get a better product that will cause you fewer headaches, and more money, down the road. I was going to buy one of those lawn rollers you fill with water when I started looking into it. I was sure I'd forget to empty it and it would be ruined. I ended up getting a 4' X 12" piece of corrugated culvert and filling it with concrete and welding up a frame. I have less than a $100 into it. No pic handy, sorry.

 

[Nova]

I like the idea, but also doubt you will be able to get enough weight on it to do the job without breaking the main frame.

 

[S.T.Fanatic]

I'll second the concrete filled culvert cultipacker. I have a welder and the skills to build myself so individual results may vary.

 

[35-acre]

Thanks for the feedback!!
It's much appreciated!!

I really do like the culvert idea but I just don't have access to a welder or know of one locally to be able to build the frame. I spent a lot of time on paper trying to figure out how to cut and bolt a frame together in order to get the culvert idea to work. It just was getting VERY complex and likely "weak" without welding. So I abandoned that concept for something easier. Plus, I felt that I would have to make the entire thing on site if I went the culvert route due to size and weight (I don't know if I could get that to my field on my 220 ATV and the field is up a hill through the woods).

For the purposes of what I am doing - and maybe I have this wrong (?????).
I am just using this to roll over the field after I plant the seed. I was not planning on using this before the seeding. I have a harrow rake that I drag behind my ATV. Do I have this wrong? Or am I confusing what a cultipacker is used for? My plan was (using throw and mow/roll):

Into dead grasses (wheat/rye), previously sprayed the field with Glysophate:

1. Spread seed (hand spreader)
2. Spread fertilizer and lime as needed (hand spreader)
3. Drag the field with the harrow rake with the spikes down
   1. Knocking down the grasses.
   2. Loosen the soil a small amount (get seed worked down)
4. Use the cultipacker to roll the field to help get the seed pressed into the soil.

So I wasn't really thinking that I needed a lot of weight. Three cinder blocks or something like that. Do you think I need more weight than that to roll the seed?

 

[dsinwi]

I think you have the right idea, you're fine there. I just don't think you have enough weight and with that unit you won't be able to as it won't hold up for long. That's just my opinion though. I'd hate to see you disappointed in the end with it. I also don't think your atv would pull a 12" culvert too well. I have a 700 and it grunts a little on fairly level ground. You could just drive over it with your atv or time a good rain. Not trying to rain on your parade but...

 

[JFK52]

Have you considered a plain lawn roller that you can fill with about 50+ gallons of water to get added weight? They cost around $100 and will last a life time. I used one of these as my cultipacker until I bought and refurbished a 8 foot 14 inch cast iron disc wheel cultipacker.
I also second trying to do your planting and rolling in the seed right before a rain if at all possible. Two years ago I had great luck with the timing of my plantings. As I was finished with the plots and driving the Kubota back to it's garage it started raining. Those plots germinated within days and with continued rains did real well.

 

[roymunson]

Have you considered a plain lawn roller that you can fill with about 50+ gallons of water to get added weight? They cost around $100 and will last a life time. I used one of these as my cultipacker until I bought and refurbished a 8 foot 14 inch cast iron disc wheel cultipacker.
I also second trying to do your planting and rolling in the seed right before a rain if at all possible. Two years ago I had great luck with the timing of my plantings. As I was finished with the plots and driving the Kubota back to it's garage it started raining. Those plots germinated within days and with continued rains did real well.

This...

I've packed in food plots and switchgrass with a lawn roller that was full of pea gravel. Gets the job done for sure.

I've used those wheels for a small cart we use in doing what we do at work, and the cart doesn't weigh 40 pounds. We blow out those bearing all the time. I don't see the bearings holding up like you want them to.

 

[S.T.Fanatic]

I personally think that If you live close to your property and are able to PLANT TO THE FORECAST a cultipacker is unnecessary. Useful yes but.....

 

[35-acre]

I live about 90 minutes away from my property so timing is more about luck than anything else.

I hadn't thought about the bearings not lasting but with 2 or 3 cinder blocks it don't think it will be too heavy (which means it may not work like I hope). I will have to give it a try and see.

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[roymunson]

go for it man. If it works, great! If not, you've probably spent $200 on something far less meaningful in the past. #yourmotherinlawsretirementparty

 

[35-acre]

You got that right Roy!

So, I got about 2/3 of the way done and had to stop. But, based on some feedback, I added some support for the axle by taking an 8 inch caster apart and mounting it in the middle.

So far, seems decent. Once I have it done, going to roll my lawn with it to flatten out some bumps.

Plus, while I was out, I picked up a bottle of Henry McKenna 10yr (voted #1 in the world). So - that is $$ well spent!

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[ghilliehunter]

35 acre, if the bearings last I think your cultipacker will work fine. I broadcast seed by hand then drag a pallet across the seed. If I'm doing rye then clover, I'll broadcast and drag the rye, broadcast the clover and drive over it with my 4 wheeler. It works fine.
PS hope to have a tractor and implements someday.

 

[Rit]

Check farm auctions near you relentlessly. I found a nice 10’ pull type for $145.

 

[MRBB]

y

Thanks for the feedback!!
It's much appreciated!!



Into dead grasses (wheat/rye), previously sprayed the field with Glysophate:

1. Spread seed (hand spreader)
2. Spread fertilizer and lime as needed (hand spreader)
3. Drag the field with the harrow rake with the spikes down
   1. Knocking down the grasses.
   2. Loosen the soil a small amount (get seed worked down)
4. Use the cultipacker to roll the field to help get the seed pressed into the soil.

So I wasn't really thinking that I needed a lot of weight. Three cinder blocks or something like that. Do you think I need more weight than that to roll the seed?

have to ask did you do a soil test here??
if not your skipping one of the most important steps in the game of planting food plots
second I would turn some of the ground over BEFORE seeding and or adding lime or fertilizer, so you can bring some of the soil to the top, over just having dead matter on top!
the dead grass and ?? will work like a carpet and NOT really allow much pressure from a packer to push seeds into the soil

the name CULTIPACKER
means more or less to PACK the ground, and that tends to take weight!
less weight means downward pressure, and the less effective it will be!
the wider the packers(good one's have a point to them almost), but the wide/larger the foot print of each wheel,
again the less downward force, think tracks ona skid steer over tires , and driving in mud? one stays on top, and one doesn't LOl

so, honestly it might not even be worth building or using a very light weight packer IMO
save the $$ and do a soil test and treat soil correctly, way better money spent! IMO!
maybe too late here, but for anyone down the road maybe to think about!

 

[yoderjac]

My guess is that you would be better off just buying a water filled lawn roller. A cultipacker serves several purposes. One is to break up clods that are the result of traditional disking and that takes weight. Another is to press the air pockets out of the soil and press the seed into the ground for better seed soil contact. A tiller, for example, produces a "fluffy" seed bed and has lots of air that can be pressed out. I think your device should do that fine. The next is to put an uneven surface on the soil so rain does not run off the field but soaks in. You see different designs of cultipackers with V wheels or wheels that create dimples. A lawn roller doesn't do this. Back when I was using one, I had a poly one. I considered getting a metal one and welding chains around it to give the soil an uneven surface but never did do it. I do remember seeing a food plot version of a poly roller. The poly had V ridges to address this.

I have to say, in most cases the plain poly lawn roller worked just fine for me pulled behind an ATV.

Thanks,

Jack

 

[35-acre]

Thanks guys.

Just to answer a couple of questions:

DID YOU GET A SOIL TEST?
Absolutely. I had it tested and have been treating as needed. I have a kit as well just to stay on top of things.

WHY NOT TILL THE LAND?

I am doing a T&M food plot. If you're not familiar with that, it would seem odd that the organic matter staying on top and isn't being tilled. This is done for a few reasons (moisture retention, less need to other chemicals to combat weeds, using the plants to supplement the soil, and most importantly is that you don't need heavy equipment - which I don't have). There is a great thread here, I encourage you to look into it.

WHY NOT GET A WATER FILLED ROLLER?

My field is about 1/2 mile up hill through the woods. It's a great spot on the only land that I own. So towing heavy stuff isn't an option. Having property this remote also means no access to water to fill a drum.

I think Jack gets what I'm doing and as he mentioned, it should work fine. I will probably make a few passes on the field with this. At the current setup, it's 100lbs without any weight added and it's 40 inches wide. Adding a couple of blocks will help. Plus with this being behind aggressive ATV tires it will help get the seed down to the soil.

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[MRBB]

just to add a few more things
ONE I am NOT sure what you are calling a T&M food plot
but in your above description on HOW you plan to plant
you listed things in order?
and you did say this
step 3
Drag the field with the harrow rake with the spikes down

1. Knocking down the grasses.
2. Loosen the soil a small amount (get seed worked down)

so it sounded to me like you have a tool for working the soil
I have used a small spring tooth harrow behind a atv to make many remote food plots, and as I stated , if your planning to work the soil at all, your better off doing so after the soil test, and MIXING in the lime that is(MAYBE ) needed
as without the lime being worked into the soil(contacting each particle of soil with a particle of lime, is how lime changes PH of the soil to get the correct PH)
NOT working the lime in ends up taking a LONG long time for the lime to even do much!
NOT trying to be a smart azz or anything of the likes, just saying,

you'd IMO be better off working the soil as best you can after liming
I understand a THROW AND GROW method was also sort of what you were planning
and if this is the case it would sort of me like, mow as low things as you can, spray to burn down vegetation, (can still do soil test and add lime ad pray) then, when all is dead, seed, fertilize and pray for rain
rolling at this point with a LIGHT weight roller, would IMO be a waste of time, as the soil would be hard under the layer of dead material on top of it!
DISTURBING the soil NOW< would require a heavier Cutting edge type of implement, like a disc! and a heavy one at that or one with controllable down pressure to cut thru the mat layer of dead vegetation and disturbing the soil NOW< your going to be reviving new seeds already IN the soil, and they will have a jump start over any NEW seeds your TRYING to grow

NEXT< and NOT bashing, just saying
the larger the packer you have, the HEAVIER it needs to be to work, as the size of the footprint a large packer makes, it causes more flotation, to get past that, you need more weight to make them work(or again have one that you can control the down force on it with say a 3 point hitch like deal)
so the one your making, a 100 lbs of weight distributed across the 40 inches is VERY little per square inch of down force on things, and honestly IMO not going to do much of anything
NEXT when your have things on a packer that do not move freely from each other, when one wheel or a few run over a object, the rest end up in the air doing NOTHING, most all food plots are not on all smooth level ground, so this also then causes less down force on a light packer, which again, is where weight comes in to play to make them work!

this also is WHY an ATV has such little down force on the ground, them big wide tires distribute the weight evenly across a wider foot print, causing very little down force,' so them atv tire s again are NOT going to be doing a lot of packing on anything either in the big picture here!
yes they will pack some, but if the surface is covered with dead vegetation, that also caused flotation, wider tires, and so on, the down force is very small here!

again not trying to discourage you here, just letting you now some things
as its easy to get excited and then be disappointed in the end, so better to know ahead of time maybe what your dealing with?


I don't know HOW steep your place is, , but my honda 400 foreman used to two a 1700+ lbs 11 ft wide double row packer up some pretty steep hills
one like it in a say a 4-5 ft wide section I think most ATV's could handle even better!
but a lot here depends on how steep and bumpy the trail is too!

any how, meant in a good way here
best of luck!

 

[yoderjac]

Thanks guys.

Just to answer a couple of questions:

DID YOU GET A SOIL TEST?
Absolutely. I had it tested and have been treating as needed. I have a kit as well just to stay on top of things.

WHY NOT TILL THE LAND?

I am doing a T&M food plot. If you're not familiar with that, it would seem odd that the organic matter staying on top and isn't being tilled. This is done for a few reasons (moisture retention, less need to other chemicals to combat weeds, using the plants to supplement the soil, and most importantly is that you don't need heavy equipment - which I don't have). There is a great thread here, I encourage you to look into it.

WHY NOT GET A WATER FILLED ROLLER?

My field is about 1/2 mile up hill through the woods. It's a great spot on the only land that I own. So towing heavy stuff isn't an option. Having property this remote also means no access to water to fill a drum.

I think Jack gets what I'm doing and as he mentioned, it should work fine. I will probably make a few passes on the field with this. At the current setup, it's 100lbs without any weight added and it's 40 inches wide. Adding a couple of blocks will help. Plus with this being behind aggressive ATV tires it will help get the seed down to the soil.

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For T&M you will be fine! Best of luck!